2008 Luigi Baudana Langhe Bianco Dragon

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  8/24/2009, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (BAUDANA Langhe Bianco Chardonnay) 2008 Dear Friends, If you thought the hype surrounding 2007 in the Southern Rhone was among the more heated you can remember, just wait for 2008 in Piedmont - the latest frenzy vintage that is about to be your new best friend. Even at this early juncture, I will stand up and proclaim that 2008 in the environs of Alba has the distinct chance to be a legendary campaign. I say this not just in reference to Barolo and Barbaresco but, for me, a truly great vintage is one that trickles down to all (or most) of the varietals - 2008 appears to fit that description and everything I have tasted to this point (bottle and barrel) has been at or near the top of what can be expected form each climat. It is way too early to generalize about most of the wine but it is not too early to say the grand wines of this region should be outstanding, potentially on par with such legendary years as 1989 or 1978. In other words, you should keep some powder dry for purchases circa 2010-2013 when the best Nebbiolo based wines of the vintage will come to market. In the meantime 2005, 2006 and 2007 also produced stellar results and all three vintages should have a large fan-base. It's not that the three vintages are inferior to 2008, quite the contrary, it's just that 2008 appears to be that much better. I'm almost hesitant to make a statement like that as you should especially not overlook 2006 and 2007 - both are two great, even potentially profound vintages in certain sub-districts that will command the collector's attention. In truth, 2005, 2006 and 2007 should be considered three very fine back to back to back vintages - 1988, 1989, 1990 is not that far-fetched a comparison (and we haven't even included 2004, which is as good or better than all three) but, the reality remains that the giant specter of 2008 looms in the distance. So let me say this, when push come to shove the string of 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007 and 2008 should to be looked upon as one of the greatest five year runs in the history of the region. That brings us to tonight's offer - until more of the Nebbiolo-based wines are released, we will have to amuse ourselves with some of the greatest Dolcetto, Barbera, Langhe Rosso and (yes, I'm about to say it) white wine this region has ever witnessed. Get out the bargain brooms, 2008 is about to sweep the slate clean with a new standard for Piedmont's workman varietals and tonight we start with... 2008 Luigi Baudana (Chardonnay) DOC Could this be Baudana's best wine? For a red wine specialist, this wine is shocking - there's nothing else to it. When they told me grand cru Chablis was the model for their Langhe Bianco, I almost laughed (not on purpose but Langhe Chardonnay can be one of those wines that you shrug your shoulders and say "why bother?") - here we have something that is definitely worth the bother. Anyone interested in Chablis or Burgundy in general should give this a try - it may not make you forget your Puligny Combettes but its non-malo style of lime, stone, sap and varietal force will make believers out of the most jaded. I've heard they blend a small amount of Sauvignon into this (not declared) so, in some way, it is almost a combination of a serious St. Bris with parts Chablis and Blagny at a darn good price for what it is. Curiosity or not, if this wine is telling of the 2008 vintage, it's going to be a wild ride for the next 4-6 years as we jump from Bianco, to Dolcetto, Barbera and on. A curiosity that is more than worth the experiment. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Italy5818