2007 Domaine Nigri Jurançon Sec Réserve du Domaine

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  9/23/2009, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (Nigri JURANCON sec Reserve) Nigri Dear Friends, Jurancon sec has become very popular with our email list as it seems to combine a sense of the exotic with a palate presence that is more reminiscent of the Wachau meets Huet rather than pineapple. Made famous in literary lore by Colette who (in one fell swoop) had an entire nation searching for this precursor to Viagra when describing Jurancon and the Manseng grape in particular as an attraction that was dangerous but also magnetic: "I was a girl when I met this prince; aroused, imperious, treacherous, as all great seducers are." That quote is still remembered and associated with Jurancon - a most mysterious and sensual wine in a country that reveres its carnal icons like no other. Jean-Louis Lacoste of Domaine Nigri (no relation to the tennis family) is considered The Master of Manseng. His dry (sec) and dessert offerings are among the most sought after in the entire region, revered in Europe for their semi-tonic and supposedly curative attributes (not to mention their folklore ability to enhance virility - see Colette quote above). With a personality that combines the best of Vouvray, GG Mosel Riesling, Sancerre and the Savoie (with an element of the unknown) Nigri's dry as a bone Reserve du Domaine stirs the soul with tremendous intrigue. Two years ago, I tasted the 2002 version of this wine while in Biarritz and it knocked me over - I was smitten with its style, one of soaring aromatics and an eccentric palate presence that I could taste for what seemed like 24 hours. I attempted to acquire a parcel on my last two spring trips to France but to no avail - today I was finally able to secure what is probably the most dynamic vintage of this wine produced since their sumptuous 1996 - the 2007 (a great vintage for Jurancon sec). Traditionally and naturally vinified (with no additions or subtractions) in a proprietary mix of barrels - old, new, large and small, the 2007 is like shimmering liquid gold. From a combination of Gros and Petit Manseng, the Reserve du Domaine has whiffs of tobacco, esters, cedar, mineral, lime and fresh flowers that run through the finish-line tape and never look back. It cuts a broad swath over the palate with layers of explosive white/green fruit that ends in a crescendo of rock, salt, (rock salt?), fruit, spice and eccentricity that is unlike any other wine in France. Neither heavy or obtuse, the wine has a terrific acid/extract balance that would be the envy of many a winemaker. Nigri's 2007 Reserve is a perfect example of why certain French districts produce wine that cannot be duplicated anywhere else. It delivers a truly unique experience and it does so at a price that remains among the lowest of any top-tier wine in Europe. Try as an aperitif, with cheese, game birds or even Thanksgiving turkey (a great match for Jurancon sec). All told, this is one of the most impressive white wines I've come across this year in the $10-15 range. VERY HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as an absurd value (and wild ride) in the world of fine wine. This parcel is directly from the winery cellar with perfect provenance: 2007 Domaine Nigri Jurancon "Reserve du Domaine" sec Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA SOFR8088