2009 J.I. Etxeberria Getariako Txakolina Bengoetxe #3

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  8/18/2010, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (ETXEBERRIA Txacoli BENGOETXE) Tx Dear Friends, X marks the spot in the Basque Country of northern Spain... ...and that means Txakoli – a wine I simply adore. As far as Txakoli is concerned (also spelled Txacoli), the US market is in its infancy - dominated by a single importer who has done a world of service for this beleaguered and backwater white wine from the spine between France and Spain. While the wine from the Basque Country has remained a somewhat mysterious notion for most US tasters, the principle cities and gastronomic influence of San Sebastian and Bilbao have not – arguably the most visited areas of Spain over the last decade thanks to Frank Gehry and a host of artistic attractions. Art may be the principle draw to this region but the food and wine are a very close second with a sphere of influence that has become far-reaching indeed. As in all wine regions of the world, some of the finest young producers are never tasted beyond their cluster of small towns - their production is miniscule and every bottle is consumed by local restaurants, who are quite happy to keep the secret to themselves. Many of these micro (garage) entities hold the most prized vineyard land in Txakoli and they have little time for the US market or for computers for that matter (the same story we’ve witnessed many times in the past). With an almost “horse and buggy” quality to the way of life – a number of these wineries are cradled in a snapshot of yesteryear - a picture that is so real, it appears like a caricature of itself. One such producer is J.I. Etxeberria, an ex herdsman/farmer who is arguably one of Txakoli’s top unknown sources. This new 100% BIO/organic “winery” bottles their tiny output for the benefit of Mr. Kite but that’s about it. From Getaria (Txakoli’s smallest and most notable area – recently opened to include producers such as Etxeberria that work in a broader Gipuzkoa) they’ve somehow been convinced to part with their two top wines and, before they change their mind, here we go... 2009 J.I. Etxeberria D.O. Gatariako “Bengoetxe” Txakoli #3 - (when looking for comparisons, be careful - there are other Etxeberria’s, but this is J.I. - in addition, this is not the generic Txakoli Blanco – this is a specific #3 cuvee) This wine is downright painful...in the best of ways. Few would have the patience for something like this but I cannot get enough of it. As one of the only hyper-BIO producers in Gataria, this is the real Txakoli, the type rarely tasted in the US. What do I mean by that? Well, for those of you familiar with Txakoli, get ready to be floored when I tell you – real Txakoli, from the finest producers, has little or no effervescence – none. What am I talking about? What I'm talking about is the fact that most Txakoli in the US is inoculated with gas prior to bottling – regardless of how “natural” it is, it isn’t. It’s created to drink like what the export notion of Txakoli has become – a tiny bubble, lime-imbued aperitif that is all the rage in New York, San Francisco and beyond. The problem with that notion is that it’s inaccurate and requires redefinition – the best Txakoli has hardly any effervescence or none at all. The #3 cuvee is an example of this high-end style – it is near-still and drinks like a spear of pulverized minerals swimming in a bath of Margherita mix (with extra sea salt and lime). With air, it becomes even more penetrating with a convergence of all things stone on stone. If you consider yourself on the cutting edge, I urge you to impale yourself on this sword of Hondarrabi Zuri, Petit Courbut and Gros Manseng. Amazing natural wine. 2009 J.I. Etxeberria D.O. Gatariako “Bengoetxe” Txakoli #4 - The #4 is their top cuvee, considered of a very high stature by the Gatariako faithful. It is far more luxurious than #3, with sanded edges and a wonderful quality to the citric bite that goes on and on. Where #3 is a study in patience, #4 is a dreamy ride (if you consider a sledgehammer to the face a dreamy event). I'm not sure what to liken this to but it is akin to cashmere coated granite with a fresh squeeze of lime dripping down its cliff-like slope. As you sheepishly attempt to spelunk the summit, don’t get too carried away with yourself as the wine will continue to surprise, leaving more and more challenging levels to ascend. My guess is that #4 will be more appreciated than #3 but I'm not sure it is the better wine. #4 is the wine you bring out to a party of would-be know-it-alls and #3 is the wine you examine over a drawn out evening with those you trust the most. EXTREMELY LIMITED This parcel is directly from the winery cellar – it will be handled with kid-gloves to insure its ultimate freshness. Both wines are in no danger of decline and both can “age” for up to 3-4 years from the date of harvest. Please give us your maximum number up to 12 x #3 and 6 x #4 and we will allocate accordingly To order either of the above: niki@garagistewine.com This parcel is set to depart from Bilbao – it will arrive in October (please check OARS for local pick up after October 20th). It will ship during the Fall shipping season in perfect time for Thanksgiving and beyond. Out of state orders will be held for free under ideal storage conditions (56 degrees/70%humidity) until shipping is possible. Locals may pick up at their leisure. For current local pick up and arrival/ship information, please see your OARS link below (at the bottom of this offer) - don’t know how to access your OARS? Simply click the link and see your account. You can also paste the link into your browser. If you are having trouble with your link or your account, please contact: support@garagistewine.com NO SALES TO RETAILERS OR WHOLESALERS Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA Spain5627 Spain5628 Click here to view the status of your orders in O.A.R.S.