Copain Dinner at Craft NYC

This was an event held by Copain Wines for mailing list members, with winemaker Wells Guthrie in attendance.

• 2006 Copain Pinot Noir Wentzel Vineyard 90 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Smoke on nose. Nice silky, almost watery mouthfeel. 90-91

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• 2006 Copain Pinot Noir Monument Tree

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Prettiest nose of the 3 Copain pinots in this flight, at least right now. Sweet fruit, some vanilla, smoke, caramel. A little denser in mouthfeel than the others (Wentzel, Kiser en Haut).

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• 2006 Copain Pinot Noir "En Haut" Kiser

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Nose shows some olive, licorice. Also silky watery feel (meant in a good way) like the Wentzel.

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Kiser en Haut was intended to be part of this flight too, but the 07s did not arrive in time so Baker Ranch was substituted in.

• 2007 Copain Pinot Noir Wentzel Vineyard 92 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  A little Burgundian earth/ mud/ funk on nose. Something pretty and a little high toned, with sweet fruit too. A bit of toasted rice cracker as well. Very pretty on the palate, with juicy acidity. 92+. Pretty use of oak here.

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• 2007 Copain Pinot Noir Monument Tree

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Some density here. Slight bitterness to the tannin, possibly from the stems. A little flinty funk on the nose here.

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• 2007 Copain Pinot Noir Baker Ranch 90 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Lighter, open, fruity nose than the other Copain pinots. Similarly light on palate. Tasty sweet light fruit. 90-91. A bit of caramel develops in time on nose.

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There was a champagne served first to kick this off, but I seemed to have forgotten the producer. Does anyone remember?

• 2002 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Vireuils 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  Wasn't able to keep detailed notes but this was very good white burg, 91-92+, balanced, restrained, consistent with Roulot bourgognes I've had before in terms of style.

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• 1994 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc Flawed

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  A bit stony, restrained - so much so that I think this was somewhat corked. Not having had Chave Hermitage blanc before, I didn't question it at the time and go back for a different sample. Didn't get much of anything from this. Judgment reserved.

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Wells talked about how his wines wouldn't be mistaken for burgundy, but he did want to capture some of what he likes about red burgundies: notably palate weight, and going for a savory aspect. I think the part that makes the Copains among my favorite CA pinots is their acidity, which in my opinion strikes a balance more comparable to burgundies than almost any other CA pinots.

• 2006 Copain Pinot Noir Monument Tree 92 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Some dirt and funk coming out on the nose now, the second time around. Olive/ licorice as well. Nice; upgrading to 91-93; showing very well. Sweet fruit, good juicy acidity. Pretty red berries, very pleasing.

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• 2002 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

  Faint Asian spice, slatey funk, tiny hint of Brett/band aid on the nose, as well as a bit of mothball. Savory on the palate, bits of olive and soy. Complex, with spice. Terrific acidity. Final take on this is, again: so complex. 92-94.

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• 2006 Copain Pinot Noir "En Haut" Kiser 92 Points

  USA, California, North Coast, Anderson Valley

  Deeper nose, ever so slightly figgy. Bit of black olive. Excellent acidity. Great balance with the fruit. 92-93

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• 2002 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots 91 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

  Flinty with a bit of charcoal on the nose. Similar on palate with a lively juicy acidity. Very burgundy - balanced, a bit savory and stony on the palate. Nice wine but shows the least well of this flight, which WG agreed with.

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• 2004 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas

  Amazing, crazy nose of leather, lavender, many other things. Similar on the palate, with medicinal cherry, olive, leather, provencal herbs. Terrific wine, but honestly, may have more going on here than I want in one wine.

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• 2007 Copain Syrah Hawks Butte Vineyard

  USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands

  Shows oak, underbrush, and a savory edge on the nose. Palate shows vanilla oak, sweetness to fruit. A bit of licorice and olive too on the nose, with more air time. Good, and very CA, but comes off as a bit simple next to the Allemand.

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It was very gutsy of Wells to let his wines be tasted in the company of greats like Chave, Roulot, Rousseau, Allemand, etc. The Copain wines definitely showed as New World but held their own. Obviously, the lineup was outstanding and it was generous of Copain to reward their fans with a terrific night of great wines and food.