Decades of Decadence -- the '9' Edition

For our tasting group's year-end finale, we assembled an impressive array of wines from 1989, 1999 and 2009. The flights worked better than I feared given the diversity of wines, as all the wines had something to say, both about themselves and the counterparts alongside which they were served.

• 2009 Dom Pérignon Champagne

  France, Champagne

  Impressive concentration. More smoky than sweet. Additional floral and citrus notes. Very approachable, and a great choice when looking for a robust, powerful style of bubbly.

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• 2009 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières 92 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

  A vexing bottle, one that took hours to come together (shame on me for not decanting) and still lacked signature vineyard notes, let alone that beloved Coche sulfur and gunpowder style. At the start, the nose was incredibly slate and lime-driven, without much if any fruit notes. Those did emerge later. Mineral notes dominated on the palate as well, though some lime and green apple later emerged. The wine never really came together, neither flawed nor cohesive. A rare 'off' Coche -- I wonder where this one is heading? I recommend ample air, if that was not clear.

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• 2009 DuMOL Chardonnay Chloe 91 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  Fully mature, but not fading. A really off nose, almost like cooked pork or something (?), but not found on the palate. Plenty of acid, alongside ripe orchard fruit and mild butterscotch. Pretty straightforward, in a good way, but I did miss an element of complexity.

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• 2009 Au Bon Climat Chardonnay Nuits-Blanches au Bouge 86 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley

  Well past its prime. A touch flabby, with muted melon and citrus notes but no lift.

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• 1999 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 92 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  A super-interesting bottle, with an almost Aussie-like nose of sweet pepper, and layered pepper and mild red fruit notes. Drank alongside a 2009 Beaucastel, and we found it very hard to "trace" the lineage between the two. Past peak, but should hold at this very pleasant level of maturity for a decade.

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• 2009 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  A beautiful bottle, displaying loads of concentrated cherry and black pepper notes, seamlessly, with a glycerined texture and rounded finish I really enjoyed. Slightly astringent on the finish, so there may be upside from here.

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• 2009 Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas Le Poste 93 Points

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas

  An unapologetically delicious wine, in excellent form. Loads of rich red fruit, with the ample Syrah component balancing the wine's ripeness. Others found the oak obtrusive and urged patience but I barely noticed it, and would not hesitate to open another.

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• 1999 Karl Lawrence Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Not a style I am drawn to these days (think classic "steakhouse" wine), but drank very well. Youthful and rich, with medium body and some toasted vanilla on the nose. Notes of dark red fruit and some spice. Well balanced by an acid backbone, making this a good accompaniment for food. The CT drinking window seems way too short, by the way.

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• 1999 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  This was an easy wine to overlook amidst a lineup of heavy hitters, many of which were less restrained than this elegant wine. Still youthful, with an Old World elegance despite the rich red fruit. I really liked its purity. Should hold for decades, too.

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• 1989 Sterling Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 86 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  A faded beauty, understandably not giving much direct pleasure at this point, but the remnants of the acid and the fruit do convey the inherent quality to good effect.

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• 2009 Jaffurs Syrah Upslope 90 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

  Dark berries, slightly perfumed, with a touch of olive. Came off as very young, with loads of oak and a green streak that would seem to suggest more time is needed. That said, I liked its energy and intensity.

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• 1999 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie Brune et Blonde 94 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  A really beautiful bottle, seemingly at peak and showing great typicity. Notes of roasted meat, red fruit, coffee grounds and olives. Fine tannins, well integrated. Very long finish.

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• 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 96 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

  Another killer bottle from a case snared at auction some years back. Familiar notes of ark cherries, smoke, game, bacon, herbs and gravel. Fine acidity. Excellent weight and complexity. A wine in stellar harmony.

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• 2009 Saxum Paderewski Vineyard 88 Points

  USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

  I'm clearly in the minority as far as the CT community is concerned, but I thought this was monolithic, dense and hot, with the ripe, confected fruit and evident alcohol failing to show the hallmark complexity I was seeking. Granted, this was enjoyed along some tough, and more elegant, competition, but I still have yet to find that Saxum 'wow' wine, post- the 2007 vintage.

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• 1999 Chateau Musar 93 Points

  Lebanon, Bekaa Valley

  An elegant wine showing impressive nuance and complexity, with polished red fruit, some crushed vitamins, lanolin, pastille and spice. If served blind, I might have called Sardegna. In hindsight, this might have been better placed in our Southern Rhone flight.

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• 1989 Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único 97 Points

  Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

  An outstanding Unico, drinking at peak. Savory and smoky layers of sweet baked fruit, cedar and anise, with a density of flavors that still managed to come off as spry and energetic. Tremendously long and expansive finish.

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• 1989 Château d'Yquem 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  Hardly the best Yquem, but still a treat. Notes of honey, coconut and tropical fruit, restrained for a Sauternes, and the acid is less than I would expect. maybe an off bottle?

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This was another stellar event for our group, and continued a "December to Remember" series of indulgent evenings I have been fortunate enough to enjoy (with more to follow!).