EWS: A Study of Sangiovese with Ian D'Agata

A wonderful evening of exploration of aged Sangiovese. Do these wines last? How do they evolve? Should I keep them for the long haul or enjoy them young? Well, sangiovese can indeed age, achieving both complexity and grace. Some of the wines from the '80 were still tannic and evolving. Most of the wines acquired balsamic notes that showed wood, tea extract, and prune aromatics. Many thanks to Howard and Bob for putting these seminars over many years (this turned out to be the last one for me) -- thank you and best of luck to you both.

These wines set the tone for the evening, with the older wines showing quite well.

• 1979 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva

  Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

  Dark cola color. Balsamic aroma, figs, sour and tangy prunes. Classy and ready now. Hint of raisin. 70% sangio.

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• 1983 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva

  Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

  Muted nose, opening slowly. Monochromatic wine, still tannic. Notes of tea, cedar. Just beginning to open up. Reminiscent of an aged Bordeaux.

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• 2001 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico Riserva

  Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

  Most expressive of the '79, '83', '01 trio. Dark, vibrant and deep. Aromatically invokes a Brunello. Dark cherry color, bit bitter in the finish, lighter in the body than previous wines, missing some of the balsamic sweetness. 80% sangio, no white grapes in the mix.

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These wine were deep and luxurious overall, thought my favorite was the younger and more fruit-driven '98. Initially made only with the red grapes permissible for the Chianti designation (?), Fontalloro is now 100% sangiovese wine.

• 1985 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  Fleshy and extracted wine, though a little hot and acidic. Tangy red berries, tea. More advanced than either '90 or '98, yet still tannic.

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• 1990 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  Darker, more masculine wine than '85. Concentrated fruit, though feels more brittle overall. Well made overall.

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• 1998 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  Fresher nose than the two preceding bottles. Soft, voluptuous and graceful. More fruit driven, with sweeter, sexier profile than the cola and wood driven older wines. Dark ripe fruit. The group preferred the more 'classic' aged wines -- call me a sucker for this beautiful fruit driven sangio.

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A single vineyard wine till '01, this is 100% sangiovese wine. This composition earned the IGT label due to non-adherence to the Chianti formula. The first vintage was produced in '81.

• 1986 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Vino da Tavola

  Italy, Tuscany, Vino da Tavola

  Open, but unfocused; comes off as washed out, raisiny. Taste of prunes, steeped tea.

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• 1993 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Vino da Tavola

  Italy, Tuscany, Vino da Tavola

  In contrast to '86, this wine was focused, concentrated, with just the right balance between sweet and sour dark fruit notes. Follows up with the mineral lift of red sweet cherry, a bi-product of a cooler year.

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• 1997 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT

  Italy, Tuscany, Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT

  Sweet and youthful now. Soft, velvety mouthfeel. Expressions of wild flowers, blueberries, supple dark cherry. Almost Rhone-line profile overall.

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'74 was the first 100% sangiovese wine produced.

• 1974 Marchesi de' Frescobaldi Chianti Rùfina Castello di Nipozzano Montesodi

  Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina

  An unusual wine. Youthful color combined with nose of dry autumn leaves. Tight and monolithic, red berries, tannic overall. Comes off and neither soft nor voluptuous

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• 1985 Marchesi de' Frescobaldi Chianti Rùfina Castello di Nipozzano Montesodi

  Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Rùfina

  Appealing aroma of dark fruits, wood. Red berries, cedar, cola on the palate. Chewy and sweet overall, with taste of plums, earthiness, licorice. Very good.

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• 1982 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Nutty aroma, youthful and kicking. Tight and structured, showing mostly nutty, caramel, cedar notes.

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• 1988 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Baked pastry aroma. Darker, less sour than '82. Tangy, mostly showing prunes, leather, earth, hint of lavender. Very good.

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• 1998 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Sour red fruit. Tight overall, succulent. Very expressive aromatically. Didn't have the balance and depth of '88 at this point. Plenty of time left.

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