Brief Takes on a Slew of Grower Champagnes

This great annual event allowed at least a cursory look at a number of new and old domains.

• NV Marie Courtin Champagne Resonance Extra Brut

  France, Champagne

  2013 base wine. Balanced, creamy entry and a brisk, mineral back end. Fine and a great bargain.

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• NV Marie Courtin Champagne Efflorescence Extra Brut

  France, Champagne

  2010 juice. Light, yeasty, citric, full of soil. I liked this too.

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• NV Marie Courtin Champagne Concordance Extra Brut

  France, Champagne

  From 2012. Bigger than the other 2 Courtin wines. Dry, smoky, and black fruited. To me, very good, but not worth the significant difference in price.

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• NV Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Le Mont Benoit

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  2012 wine. Herbal, yeasty nose. Chalky, green, lean feel. No. This cuvée always leaves me flat.

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• 2009 Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Les Hauts Chardonnays Extra Brut Millésime

  France, Champagne

  Light weight, orange, and soil, but on the whole, very neutral impression.

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• 2008 Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Les Hauts Meuniers

  France, Champagne

  Interesting, spicy nose but very dry, austere palate. Pure Meunier Champagne just does not do it for me.

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• NV Laherte Frères Champagne Grand Brut Ultradition

  France, Champagne

  Sweet entry, harsh finish. Yuck.

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• NV Laherte Frères Champagne Rosé Ultradition

  France, Champagne

  Also on the high dosage side like the Brut, but nice complexity and more harmonious, dry finish than that wine.

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• NV Christophe Mignon Champagne Extra Brut

  France, Champagne

  Frothy. Medium weight, moderate dosage, lively palate, good mineral finish. Nice bottle-don't think I've tasted this producer before.

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• NV Benoît Lahaye Champagne Blanc de Noirs

  France, Champagne

  Rich caramel entry with oxidative notes. Dry, slightly bitter finish.

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• 2011 Benoît Lahaye Champagne Grand Cru Brut Nature Le Jardin de la Grosse Pierre

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Herbal and austere. You can get this terrible wine for only $140!! An embarrassment, or at least it should be.

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• NV Bérêche et Fils Champagne Brut Réserve

  France, Champagne

  Herbal nose. Creamy, excellent feel, good acidity. Thumbs up and another good value.

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• NV Bérêche et Fils Champagne Campania Remensis

  France, Champagne

  Not that bubbly. Deep, serious black fruit, tannic. This one needs time.

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• NV J. Lassalle Champagne Premier Cru Brut Rosé

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Slightly funky nose, but deeply flavored and good overall.

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• 2005 J. Lassalle Champagne Premier Cru Brut Cuvée Spéciale

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Odd, off nose. Low pitched citrus and not much else. Unimpressive, as I remember this year's Cuvée Angeline also being. Not so speciale.

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• NV Veuve Fourny & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Brut Rosé

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Yeasty, dry, good in lighter Fourny style.

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• NV Jacques Lassaigne Champagne Les Vignes de Montgueux Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

  France, Champagne

  Herbal, tart, and disjointed. I wonder if this is based on 2011 juice. Another producer I never seem to enjoy or understand.

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• NV Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Côte de Val Vilaine

  France, Champagne

  Based on 2014. Wheat crisp scents. Light, lively, citric. Now this was zesty and very tasty. One to buy and drink early for its vibrant nature.

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• NV Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules

  France, Champagne

  2010 base wine. Fine brioche and bitter orange. Light weight, excellent length. Bravo, Bouchard, for both wines poured tonight.

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• NV André Clouet Champagne Grande Réserve Brut

  France, Champagne

  Too rich and sweet.

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• NV André Clouet Champagne Rose No. 3

  France, Champagne

  Apparently the 3 is on a scale of 10 for degree of weight. Faint strawberry aromatics. Lighter weight (consistent with the numbering), dry and mineral. Very good, and much more attractive than the clumsy Brut(e).

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• NV Soutiran Champagne Premier Cru Cuvée Alexandre Brut

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Hay and herbs on the nose, moderate weight, caramel on the palate. Interesting but not to my taste for its more oxidative style.

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• NV Soutiran Champagne Grand Cru Signature Brut

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Fine bead. Light, bright, and lemony with some complicating yeastiness. This is more like it and well worth a purchase.

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• NV Soutiran Champagne Grand Cru Perle Noire Brut

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Low pitched nose. Slightly sweeter than the Signature. Deep black cherry fruit. I preferred the focus and complexity of the Signature.

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• NV Soutiran Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Deep pink. Burnt toast. Big and tannic. Interesting range from Soutiran.

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• NV Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Cuvée Sainte Anne

  France, Champagne

  Some citrus but pretty anonymous Champagne.

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• 2009 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Blanc de Blancs Heurtebise

  France, Champagne

  Fine, dry, yeasty. Much better than the basic cuvée.

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• NV H. Billiot Fils Champagne Grand Cru Brut Rosé

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Medium pink. Dry Pinot black fruit, nice coating mouth feel.

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• NV Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier Brut

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Fragrant. Bitter citrus, medium dosage. Good.

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• NV Robert Moncuit Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Straight ahead, standard issue BdB, yeasty with some citrus. Not as interesting as others in this price range.

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• 2008 Robert Moncuit Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Chetillons

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Dry, creamy, long, serious depth of flavor with some grilled nuts for complexity. Really excellent and the only luxury cuvée I tasted tonight for which I would consider spending the extra $$.

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Winners and great values for me-Bouchard, Soutiran, and Courtin. On the high end, a lovely Chetillons from Moncuit.