Wine Spectator 40th Anniversary

Marriott Marquis
Tasted Thursday, October 21, 2021 - Saturday, October 23, 2021 by MC2 Wines with 531 views

Introduction

A belated celebration of the 40th Anniversary of the NY Wine Experience. It's a bit unlikely to imagine many of the best producers in the world coming into town for a weekend right around the harvest time and yet it's been going for so long that it is just expected. Nice to rebound after a year off. For us this was a great event to reconnect with a bunch of our wine folks.

Flight 1 - Grand Tasting Thursday Night (41 Notes)

There were some others that we got to but by the end of the night after 4 hours I wasn't taking the best notes anymore so I've opted to leave them out. We also went to the Grand Tasting on Fri night but as many of the wines were the same I decided not to write notes. Overall a very fun event though and great to see how many people you run into.

Flight 2 - Friday morning (12 Notes)

Included a Tribute to Ernest Gallo, Top 3 Wines of 2019, Wine Star: Gaja Family, Top 10 wines of 2020 - Wines #10, 9, 8, Wine Star: Cristie Kerr, and a panel on California Cabernet

  • 2010 San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico

    Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

    (10/22/2021)

    Very fresh with great acid and bright red fruits. It's a quicker finish wine. Strikes me as one that really needs food (ideally some tomato based).

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  • 2015 Mayacamas Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder

    (10/22/2021)

    Nice darker fruits, right level of ripeness. Very good balance to the wine. Still primary. A hint of the Veeder green in the background. Would love to see how it goes with some time - expect it might get a bit more complexity.

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  • 2016 Château Léoville Barton

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    (10/22/2021)

    Almost a bit sweeter than the Mayacamas which surprised me. It starts subtle and then has this almost sugary mid palate. Light on tannin. Feels like it's been to be very accessible. With more time it's got some woodsy notes.

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  • 2014 Gaja Barolo Conteisa

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (10/22/2021)

    Sharper notes. There's tar and balsamic and more traditional style of barolo. Less of the fruit and floral to it. Still quite young so perhaps with some more time. Very interesting story though of Gaja building a business over many generations.

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  • 2012 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année

    France, Champagne

    (10/22/2021)

    Nice and bright and crisp. Served very cold and it was hard to get much flavor initially from the wine. ~65% Pinot Noir and remaining Chard. Made from 78% Grand Cru and 22% Premier Cru vineyards. As it warms up you get a bit more of the Pinot character. Still a very young wine. Would give it quite a bit of time. Has that raciness though that is very popular these days.

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  • 2018 Beaux Frères Pinot Noir Beaux Frères Vineyard

    USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge

    (10/22/2021)

    Oregon Pinot and very representative of that style to me. Nice fruits. Something on the back end that reminds me of a dark forest. Very tasty. Winemaker mentioned this was the least amount of sulfur they had every used during the winemaking. Gives it a bit more of that fresh note.

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  • 2015 Bodega Piedra Negra (François Lurton) Chacayes

    Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco, Chacayes

    (10/22/2021)

    From a magnum. This is a big wine. Lower acid. Not exactly extra ripe though it's very full-bodied. Red fruits and soil and so the flavoring is a bit more balanced. Interesting to try.

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  • 2018 Kerr Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Wappo Vineyard

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (10/22/2021)

    Napa cabernet for sure but with some balance to the fruit. There's a bit of baking spice here too that helps keep the fruit more in check. Very big tannins. It's one of those wines where the flavor becomes almost all tannin right at the end and then it just dissapates a bit. From a vineyard in the Stags Leap region.

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  • 2015 Ulysses Napa Valley

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (10/22/2021)

    Right at the foot of the Mayacamas. When Christian bought the vineyard he liked the terroir but ended up replanting all of the vines. First vintage 2012 so these are still from vines on the younger side. All dry farmed. This is baking spice and black fruits and feels like it was built to age even with the younger vines. Wine comes through very well (use 50% new oak, but steam and smoke the flavor out of it so that the fruit is what shows).

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  • 2016 Accendo Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (10/22/2021)

    Really interesting story behind this wine. From the previous owner of Eisele (Araujo). This is the new project which is based on buying grapes from across the valley to create the best blends of wines year over year. Nice wine. Quick finish. Strong fruit and again a bit of the spice and then there's something else there as well that I just can't quite name but helps make the wine a bit more interesting. Made by Kinsmann whom I've heard a lot more about recently so interesting to get to try one of his wines.

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  • 2014 Abreu Las Posadas

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Howell Mountain

    (10/22/2021)

    Pretty awesome wine which I suppose I know but it's been awhile since we've cracked an Abreu in the Brad era. There's a lightness to it that has no business with Cali Cabernet and yet it's still got the power you want from wines from that region. Drying tannin that's softer in style. Hint of mint and some black fruits and this perfect level of fruit that is not ripe but it just right if that makes sense. Too young, but truly lovely.

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  • 2018 MacDonald Cabernet Sauvignon

    USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

    (10/22/2021)

    Third time this week with this wine which does sadden me because there's quite a lot of baby killing going on but what can you do? This is really lovely as always. Very young, very fine tannins, but a wine that is built to age and almost coats the mouth. Looking forward to drinking in many years.

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Flight 3 - Saturday Morning (13 Notes)

Included Top 10 Wines of 2020 - Wines #7, 6, 5, Wine Star: Chuck Wagner, Wine Star: Prince Robert de Luxembourg, Chef's Challenge

For Chef's Challenge:

Eric's dish: Hiramasa Crudo; Grated Yuzu, Lemon, Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Emeril's wine: Tasca d'Almerita Malvasia Salina Tunuta Capofaro Didyme 2020
Tom's wine: Bodegas Pazo de Barrantes Albarino Rias Baixes 2017

Emeril's dish: Crab Salad, Winter Squash Custard, Satsuma Truffle Vinaigrette
Michael's wine: Delomotte Brut Champange NV
Tom's wine: Domaine Serene Chardonnay Dundee Hills Evenstad Reserve 2014

Danny's dish: Pork Milanese, Pecorino, Caraway, Bagna Cauda Aiolo
Eric's wine: Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Kamptal Ried Lamm 2019
Tom's wine: Bodega Catena Zapata Nicolas 2009

Michael's dish: Short Rib-Oxtail Rillettes, Spiced Hudson Valley Apples, Field Greens, Toasted Baguette
Danny's wine: Fontodi Chianti Classico Filetta di Lamole 2016
Tom's wine: Chateau Lynch Bages 2009

  • 2016 Massolino Barolo

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (10/23/2021)

    Very pretty and precise. The entry level Barolo I think for this producer whom we haven't spent nearly enough time with (but are hoping to visit in a month when we head to Piedmont). This is rose hips and tar and red fruits and very elegantly structured. Young and needs time, but this seems like a great buy.

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  • 2017 Kistler Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard

    USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

    (10/23/2021)

    Take this with a grain of salt because I'm not a chard person and this is a wine that is built very much to bring out that (esp oaked) chard flavor. Smells like vanilla, very high acid and highly oaked wine. It's too much for me but I can appreciate that it is well done for the style it is.

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  • 2016 Domaine de la Vieille Julienne Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Trois Sources

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    (10/23/2021)

    There's more restraint here than I would expect for a CdP. It's mostly driven by a fairly high acid level. Strong tannins at the end which kindof creates a hard stop to the wine. Nice fruit. It's something I'd look for in the future.

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  • 2012 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon 40th Anniversary

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    (10/23/2021)

    Chuck Wagner was one of my favorite talks at the Wine Experience. I don't necessarily buy into his form of wine, but I appreciate that while the market and popular opinion has moved against him he's sticking with what he likes (much the way I appreciated Randy Dunn did the same as Napa got bigger). This was served on the colder side and if you are going to drink it now I'd recommend that. It is big and very unapologetic about that. Made with the berries that are almost a bit raisiny at the time of harvest. Perhaps it calms down more with some age? Right now it's a wine that invites just a small sip or two.

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  • 2003 Château Haut-Brion

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    (10/23/2021)

    Beautiful red fruits, leather, very tasty. Does not even remotely seem like a super hot year. This is very balanced. Very well balanced and elegant. Just a great wine.

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  • 2020 Tasca D'Almerita Tenuta Capofaro Didyme Salina IGT

    Italy, Sicily, Salina IGT

    (10/23/2021)

    Wow - definitely liked this. A bit of a surprise wine but it was just perfect with Eric Riperts crudo. Brings out the yuzu in the dish. Very crisp and fresh and that went well with the roundness of the olive oil. Worked on its own as well although certainly improved with the food.

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  • 2017 Pazo de Barrantes Albariño Rías Baixas La Comtesse

    Spain, Galicia, Rías Baixas

    (10/23/2021)

    Just a very different style from the Malvasia and while I think this could work as well it wasn't quite as nice as the other. On the heels of that it comes across as almost a hint sour. Very dry. Crisp. A touch green. Very fresh. A good food wine still.

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  • NV Delamotte Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

    France, Champagne

    (10/23/2021)

    This benefited from me not being a chard person which was the other choice. Very bright and fresh and crisp and a great value for the wine. It's lemon and lightness and makes the food almost a bit less intense (a crab salad by Emeril). Works very well.

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  • 2014 Domaine Serene Chardonnay Evenstad Reserve

    USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Dundee Hills

    (10/23/2021)

    Elegant structure. It's chardonnay so not my wine, but if it was my wine this is the type of chard I'd be interested in.

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  • 2019 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner 1ÖTW Ried Lamm

    Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal

    (10/23/2021)

    This surprised me as I thought for sure I'd prefer the red wine as the pairing but I found myself coming out here. It's very fresh, some white fruits, a hint of green, it just balances the fried pork so well and pulls out flavor and calls less attention to the fact that the food is served room temperature.

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  • 2009 Bodega Catena Zapata Nicolás Catena Zapata

    Argentina, Mendoza

    (10/23/2021)

    Lovely wine on its own. It's a big Malbec with red fruits and tannin and starting to get leather and just starting to get a bit more secondary. Needs more time but I think this is going good places.

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  • 2016 Fontodi Chianti Classico Filetta di Lamole

    Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

    (10/23/2021)

    This is a wine that is purely about food. It's very high acid. Almost hard to drink on its own but with the fat in the meat that cuts and it elevates both the dish and the wine. No comparison though with the Lynch Bages although of course it's a much more reasonable price point.

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  • 2009 Château Lynch-Bages

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    (10/23/2021)

    This wine was lovely on its own or with the pairing and for me it was the better wine with the food perhaps because it's also just the better wine. Goes nicely with the dish - perhaps the tannin with the meat? I get tobacco and maybe a bit of fruit. This is not really in drinking window for me but I suspect would be for quite a lot of folks. Drinking nicely at the moment.

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Flight 4 - Saturday Lunch - La Masseria (1 Note)

Haven't been to this place in awhile and might need to make it a more standard part of the Wine Spectator experience. Food was delicious.

  • 2005 Roagna Barolo Vigna Rionda Flawed

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (10/23/2021)

    The wine was not quite right although we still drank it. First bottle was tons of brett. Second bottle was better although still not as expressive as a Roagna normally is. Less delicate and more barnyard.

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Flight 5 - Post Spectator dinner w/Friends (5 Notes)

Not part of the event but makes it easier since I wrote these notes first from memory. And it was in the wine-soaked weekend!

  • 2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne

    France, Champagne

    (10/23/2021)

    Continues to be a great wine but almost feel a bit bad drinking so young since this feels like one of the ones that will age stupendously. It’s bright and fresh and just slightly tight.

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  • 1992 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

    France, Champagne

    (10/23/2021)

    This is prob a bit more advanced for its age than it should be but I don’t think it was the best year and bought on secondary market so never know about the storage either. Still, it’s very tasty in that way aged champagne is where maybe a hint of oxidation that turns the flavors more caramel.

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  • 2018 Antica Terra Pinot Noir Obelin

    USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills

    (10/23/2021)

    From a magnum. Maggie’s wines are always very refined snd this was no different. Pretty with a bit of floral and a bit of fruit. Restrained and yet also kindof juicy in nature. Young wine but enjoyable.

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  • 1964 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (10/23/2021)

    Opened and decanted for close to 5 hours when we drank it which is often the key with these old Barolos. It was drinking very well. Tar and roses. Great acid. A nice food wine that expresses a certain elegance that's surprising with so many years.

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  • 1979 Château Trotanoy

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    (10/23/2021)

    Surprising how good this was. From a magnum. We decanted for sediment in the morning and rebottled and then brought to dinner that evening. It was great. Darker fruits and round notes and very expressive wine. Will have to continue to keep an eye out since there aren't so many great wines from 79.

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Closing

This is of course never the only wine event happening at this time and so interesting to have a week where it was rather intense. Looking forward to some dry time now!

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