La Tablee: Bonneau retrospective

Mercerie
Tasted Thursday, January 27, 2022 by MC2 Wines with 250 views

Introduction

Like all good Rhone aficionados my affections have certainly shifted to the North through my journey, but there are a few southern estates that I think can fully rival what the North does and Bonneau is one of those. I've always loved his wines and it was a real treat to get to do a full line-up (not the most common as I'd say his wines tend to be fairly unavailable). All from the estate with perfect provenance and all in top shape. A really special evening.

All young wines were decanted before noon (dinner served around 7 pm). The older ones were opened and double decanted around 3:45 pm. All were still evolving in the glass.

Flight 1 - Champagne starter with passed apps (2 Notes)

Because everyone knows that every meal should start with bubbles

Ham and Foie Gras Millefeuille

Gougeres

Mini Tarte Flambee

Flight 2 - Terrine du Canard au Foie Gras (3 Notes)

Duck and Foie Gras Pate
picked ginger and red onion

  • 2014 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Very fresh with almost a hint of mint to this. Darker in nature but all red fruits. Some mineral. Almost an iron ore. Powerful wine. Way too young. I haven't had much experience with the base CdP but this definitely impressed me.

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  • 1996 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    The berries just jump out of the glass here. Again it's a bigger style of wine. You can taste a bit of the alcohol. But there's also a certain refinement to it. Interesting juxtaposition.

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  • 1993 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Twice with a '93 Rhone in one week and I must say I've been really impressed with both of them. My favorite of the flight. Red fruited. A touch more austere than the others which were more fruit forward. Here I get a bit of darker, almost mineral style notes. This also felt the most 'in the drinking window' of the group although prob just on the early side of that so if you have a bottle I wouldn't say there's a rush.

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Flight 3 - Homard dans les Forets Jurassiennes (4 Notes)

Lobster with Chateau Chalon
chanterelle, little gem

Flight 4 - Poulet Fermier Croustillant (4 Notes)

Crispy heritage chicken
green beans, garlic and ginger brittle

Flight 5 - Chevreuil aux Airelles (4 Notes)

Venison with parsnips, winter greens

Flight 6 - A Selection of Cheeses (2 Notes)

Flight 7 - Petit Fours (1 Note)

  • 1990 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Spéciale

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    My first experience with this wine was one of those ones with time and place and week and this was just perfect. I am happy to report that (albeit perhaps a happier set-up) this was still wonderful. Lovely and bright and well structure and again just very very young. Which of course surprised me a bit but I suppose to be expected since 90's seem to go for awhile. Great to check in.

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Closing

Anyone who has read my notes will know I'm going to like the oldest ones - the '88 which I've had the pleasure to try in the past is an absolute gem and the 1990 Cuvee Speciale is aptly named. The surprises for me were the '95 Beurrier which I thought was showing really well and the 2010 Celestins which for me was a show stopper and esp in the young flight really jumped out (not at all ready to drink, but such a well put together wine). Many thanks to John (importer) for providing wines and to Pressoir for organizing!

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