Simon's Dauvissat dinner

Lorne
Tasted Friday, June 10, 2022 by NickA with 144 views

Introduction

Let's drink some Dauvissat! Plus a Raveneau ringer - not tasted blind, though it would have been pretty obvious, I suspect.

Flight 1 - Pea and pecorino bites (1 Note)

  • 2006 Pascal Doquet Champagne Premier Cru Le Mont Aimé 92 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

    Le Mont Aimé is an outlying butte of yellow chalk, silex and sand that is completely different in its geological makeup than the rest of the Côte des Blancs. Organic Chardonnay, full malo, matured half in enamel and half in old oak. This bottle seemed at a lovely point in its evolution, with an aromatic, complex nose that included honeysuckle, exotic soap and a hint of cream. Both soft and energetic on the palate, with a long, lactic finish. Would have been fun to spend more time with this wine.

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Flight 2 - Sea bream tartare, kohlrabi, cucumber, dashi jelly, chives, beer batter (2 Notes)

  • 2017 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Séchet 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Surprisingly open: it didn't feel at all premature to open this. A fairly subtle nose compared to the Raveneau, but lots going on: caraway, steel, saline oyster and, with air, even icing sugar. Incisive on the palate, smoky, full of zesty lime, then a lovely development through the mid-palate, accelerating towards a chewy finish with a touch of cream. Superb - my WOTN, group joint #3.

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  • 2015 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Les Forêts 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Deeper in colour than its flight-mate. Very full, exotic nose, quite broad and mealy, with sansho leaf and IPA-like hops, plus a sassafras note that provided an obvious link with the 02 Les Clos drunk recently. Strutted its stuff boldly on the palate, but zippy enough, with good length and a bitterness on the finish. Excellent wine, though I'm unsure why people pay *so* much more for these than other Chablis producers' wines. Joint group #3 tonight.

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Flight 3 - Pea mousse with brown shrimps, preserved lemon, pickled jalapeno, deep-fried focaccia (2 Notes)

Flight 4 - Roast cod, courgettes, cod croquette, parmesan (3 Notes)

  • 2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Actually quite enjoyable, and I drank a fair bit of my glass, but when compared to its flight-mates this was obviously corked. What I could tell, aside from that, was that the wine was pretty tight and had some interesting notes of honey and Turkish delight. Sadly, it was very truncated on the finish.

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  • 2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Séchet 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Aromatic nose, full of lemon and lime as well as hints of icing sugar and something more steely. Super tangy on the palate, with more of the lemon/lime, and just rich enough. Long and intense, and piquant on the finish. Not particularly complex, but really impactful - a sharp steel knife of a wine. Really enjoyable, but barely ready on this showing. My #3, group #2.

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  • 2014 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Ultra-steely nose, but more floral with air. Extremely sour and juicy on the palate, like Rose's lime cordial that hadn't had quite enough water, then a surprisingly mealy finish. A touch of the exotic came through with time in the glass. Mmm! Two years until my next bottle, I reckon. My #2 tonight.

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Flight 5 - Baron Bigod, Ossau-Iraty, Devon Blue (2 Notes)

  • 2018 Jean-Marie Fourrier Bourgogne 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

    Smoky and extremely fresh and fruity, as you'd expect. Not really my style on the palate to be honest; I believe Fourrier destems, but this tasted quite green and stemmy, perhaps as though he'd picked very early to counteract the warm vintage. Tart finish, though the fruit became sweeter with air.

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  • 2018 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Irancy 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côtes d'Auxerre, Irancy

    Very dark in colour - a stereotypical 2018 red! Notes of coffee, dark berries, dusky flowers, something leathery, and Ribena. Good length. My first Irancy, and most enjoyable.

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Closing

Think this lived up to expectations - generally excellent wines, some corked ones (we also lost a Sechet 12, that wasn't tasted except by the somm), 2014 almost painfully youthful, 2017 really charming. Great food too, especially the Sea bream.

Voting for WOTN (each person voted 3, 2, 1):

2010 Forest - 15
2014 Sechet - 11
2017 Sechet - 8
2015 Rav Foret - 8
2014 Forest - 3
2018 Fourrier - 3

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