France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
From magnum. Surprisingly not reduced for PYCM. Very nice richness and density, with the expected high acidity from the vintage, as well as the prototypical breadth on the palate. One of the better bottles of PYCM I've had in a while.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Hyper reduced on the nose and palate; very hard to get much of a read on this. Some fruit underneath all that reduction, but definitely not of the same richness and breadth as the Abbaye alongside.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
A little herbal and relatively thin for a Chassagne, but that might be the vintage. Touch of sweet fruit but generally lean on the palate with a modest amount of acid.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Probably my favourite white wine tonight -- the nose of this reminds me a bit of Boisson-Vadot with its "noble" reduction. Good breadth on the palate, with sweet, youthful fruit, and definitely a leaner, mineral-driven palate. I'll be on the lookout for some of this.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Better than I remember it being a long while ago, but this still bears some of the hallmarks of the vintage, being a little more lean than a Corton-Charlemagne ought to be. Some herbal elements here.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
From magnum. Fantastic wine, definitely showing some age and maturity in terms of fruit that is starting to brown, but still with lively acids and a broad texture on the palate that I very much like.
Seemed to be pretty closed and although not too reductive, also not very giving either. Good minerality on the palate, but at least right now, this seemed to lack, well, flavour. Got better with air, though.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
For drinking now, my favourite of the three Sigaut wines. Lovely red fruit, a little riper than average (but that's the vintage), but the perfume is still quite evocative of Chambolle. Not the most complex, but definitely the most enjoyable today.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
This was my least favourite of the three; showing a bit coarse and blocky, with tannins that were overbearing. More dark-fruited and lacking the brightness and lift of the Chatelots, which I much preferred for current drinking. Feels a little clumsy here.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
The wine with the most potential, even if it wasn't drinking the best today (that honour went to the Chatelots). Quite brooding (especially for Chambolle) but with good weight of fruit on the palate. Not as perfumed as I want for Chambolle either, and the fruit feels more dark too. A touch of oak adds weight. I'd love to revisit this a decade later.
Very Dujac, with its whole cluster perfume. A little more red-fruited than customary, but I really do love the perfume here. Very enjoyable to drink, and drinking pretty young right now, especially for a 10-year-old villages wine. I might have even guessed 2016 if served this blind.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Surprisingly backwards and tannic (more so than I would expect from Jadot). Not much fruit to give up here right now; this has a bit of a characteristic earthy dirtiness that I get from Clos Vougeot. Not a convincing showing today.
Quite pleasant for a Bourgogne, but this is definitely made with the post-modern style in mind -- the crunchy red fruit from whole clusters, the high aromatics. Decent weight on the palate, especially for the level. Not hard to predict the future trajectory of this producer.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Really not my jam (and it kind of is jammy). Really ripe and sappy red fruit, almost to the point of cloyingness. Not much structure, and no Gevrey-like characteristics here. Seems like this will fall apart in a few years, but I guess for now if you like fruit-bomb-like Bourgogne, wheeeeee...
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
A very good bottle of negoce Drouhin. Quite 1996 in style, with the acid-driven, sinewy structure, but there's also quite a bit of sweet red fruit that counterbalances that acidity. Nice complexity and earthiness here, and for my palate, amply mature.
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Blocky and heavy for a 2010, lacking the brightness and elegance of the vintage. Strong toasty oak signature, and quite a bit of tannin. Sure, it's Corton, but I don't think that preordains the wine to be like this.
2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
From magnum. Surprisingly not reduced for PYCM. Very nice richness and density, with the expected high acidity from the vintage, as well as the prototypical breadth on the palate. One of the better bottles of PYCM I've had in a while.
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2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Champlots Blanc 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
Hyper reduced on the nose and palate; very hard to get much of a read on this. Some fruit underneath all that reduction, but definitely not of the same richness and breadth as the Abbaye alongside.
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2011 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
A little herbal and relatively thin for a Chassagne, but that might be the vintage. Touch of sweet fruit but generally lean on the palate with a modest amount of acid.
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2019 Xavier Monnot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Probably my favourite white wine tonight -- the nose of this reminds me a bit of Boisson-Vadot with its "noble" reduction. Good breadth on the palate, with sweet, youthful fruit, and definitely a leaner, mineral-driven palate. I'll be on the lookout for some of this.
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2011 Maison Morey-Coffinet Corton-Charlemagne 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Better than I remember it being a long while ago, but this still bears some of the hallmarks of the vintage, being a little more lean than a Corton-Charlemagne ought to be. Some herbal elements here.
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2002 Domaine Ramonet Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
From magnum. Fantastic wine, definitely showing some age and maturity in terms of fruit that is starting to brown, but still with lively acids and a broad texture on the palate that I very much like.
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2017 Samuel Billaud Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Seemed to be pretty closed and although not too reductive, also not very giving either. Good minerality on the palate, but at least right now, this seemed to lack, well, flavour. Got better with air, though.
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2015 Domaine Anne et Hervé Sigaut Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Chatelots 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
For drinking now, my favourite of the three Sigaut wines. Lovely red fruit, a little riper than average (but that's the vintage), but the perfume is still quite evocative of Chambolle. Not the most complex, but definitely the most enjoyable today.
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2015 Domaine Anne et Hervé Sigaut Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
This was my least favourite of the three; showing a bit coarse and blocky, with tannins that were overbearing. More dark-fruited and lacking the brightness and lift of the Chatelots, which I much preferred for current drinking. Feels a little clumsy here.
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2015 Domaine Anne et Hervé Sigaut Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers Vieilles Vignes 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
The wine with the most potential, even if it wasn't drinking the best today (that honour went to the Chatelots). Quite brooding (especially for Chambolle) but with good weight of fruit on the palate. Not as perfumed as I want for Chambolle either, and the fruit feels more dark too. A touch of oak adds weight. I'd love to revisit this a decade later.
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2012 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis
Very Dujac, with its whole cluster perfume. A little more red-fruited than customary, but I really do love the perfume here. Very enjoyable to drink, and drinking pretty young right now, especially for a 10-year-old villages wine. I might have even guessed 2016 if served this blind.
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2012 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Surprisingly backwards and tannic (more so than I would expect from Jadot). Not much fruit to give up here right now; this has a bit of a characteristic earthy dirtiness that I get from Clos Vougeot. Not a convincing showing today.
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2017 Camille Thiriet Bourgogne Les Blanches 90 Points
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
Quite pleasant for a Bourgogne, but this is definitely made with the post-modern style in mind -- the crunchy red fruit from whole clusters, the high aromatics. Decent weight on the palate, especially for the level. Not hard to predict the future trajectory of this producer.
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2009 Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Flawed
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
From jeroboam. Corked. Yeah...
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2006 Domaine Roblet-Monnot Volnay Saint-Francois 85 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
Quite earthy and mulchy on the nose, with some slightly stewy fruit. Nebbiolo-like amount of tannins. Coarse and rustic; not my cup of tea.
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2018 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Really not my jam (and it kind of is jammy). Really ripe and sappy red fruit, almost to the point of cloyingness. Not much structure, and no Gevrey-like characteristics here. Seems like this will fall apart in a few years, but I guess for now if you like fruit-bomb-like Bourgogne, wheeeeee...
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1996 Joseph Drouhin Charmes-Chambertin 93 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
A very good bottle of negoce Drouhin. Quite 1996 in style, with the acid-driven, sinewy structure, but there's also quite a bit of sweet red fruit that counterbalances that acidity. Nice complexity and earthiness here, and for my palate, amply mature.
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2010 Rapet Père et Fils Corton-Pougets 88 Points
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Blocky and heavy for a 2010, lacking the brightness and elegance of the vintage. Strong toasty oak signature, and quite a bit of tannin. Sure, it's Corton, but I don't think that preordains the wine to be like this.
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