budh
Posts: 271
Joined: 7/16/2012 From: Freestone CA Status: offline
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To broaden the subject a bit, I have purchased a few different varietal-specific glasses recently, and done all the online research I can. I'd like to share my observations and see if they resonate with people. Given the paucity of information out there, I certainly may not have all my observations correct or complete - feel free to aid in my education.... I won't do a comprehensive tome, just try to hit the highlights. I limit my comments to red wine glasses. I know some people think it is the hight of wine snobbery to have different glasses for different wines, but I think most people agree that the shape does make a difference. There seem to be four basic variables in varietal-specific wine glasses: rim size (wide like Bordeaux, Pinot; or narrow like Syrah, Zin); bowl size (large like Bordeaux, Pinot; smaller like Zin); bulb shape (Pinot) vs. straighter sides (Bordeaux); and bowl height (tall for Bordeaux). If you focus on what these variables do to a wine, I think it enables you to do a better job choosing the optimal glass for your wine. If you think about a big Cab as a starter, the reasons a Bordeaux glass works well are: the wide rim deposits the wine in the front palate (more discussion below) which highlights the sweetness of the fruit and, thus, tames the tannin a bit; large bowl aerates the wine, also taming the tannin; straighter sides enable the aroma to dissipate a bit, not trapping potentially unpleasant alcohol fumes from heavy tannin; taller bowl keeps your nose farther away from the heavy alcohol fumes. All these variables focus on taming a Cab's tannins. With a Pinot, two of the glass variables are the same as for a Bordeaux glass, but for different reasons. A pinot bowl is large, and the rim is wide. The wide rim again focuses the wine on the front palate - but it is to tame the acidity of a Pinot, not the mild tannins. The wide bowl again leads to aeration, but this is to enhance the fruity aroma rather than smooth the tannin. Bulb shape helps enhance the aroma, and shorter bowl puts your nose closer to the wine to enjoy the aroma. This all makes sense to me, and it is fairly easy to generalize about Cabs being tannic and Pinots being acidic. But from here it gets confusing and obscure. For instance, everyone recommends a Bordeaux glass for Merlot (it is a Bordeaux grape, after all). But most Merlots have lower tannin and acid, and are fruitier. Seems like they would be better in a Pinot glass to highlight the fruit more, or a Syrah glass (narrow rim, bulb-shape) which would push the wine to mid-palate to accentuate the lighter tannins more. I haven't tried this yet, but intend to. Likewise, most Syrahs that I drink (California) have heavy tannin and high acidity, so a Syrah glass doesn't seem appropriate due to the narrow rim. I've found a tannic Syrah tastes better from a Pinot or Bordeaux glass. Maybe a Syrah glass works well on a Grenache or Mourvedre or some less tannic Rhone blends (CNPs, etc.) - but I haven't experimented with this much yet. A Zin glass (not many around, but Reidel makes one) also doesn't make much sense to me. They have a small bowl and narrow rim. Both of these characteristics accentuate the tannin, which in most CA Zins that I drink need to be tamed, not accentuated. People seem to think Zins are unstructured and fall apart in a big bowled glass. Maybe that is true for some, but not if you spend $15 or more for a decent Zin, in my experience... I would think a Pinot or Bordeaux glass would be better for a tannic Zin. (I need to experiment with this further.) So my basic take-away from this is that the shape of a wine glass does matter. But don't get stuck on generalities - know what a glass does, and tailor your glass choice to a specific wine's characteristics. One last observation: I recently got a few "breathable" Eisch "superior" glasses. They claim to aerate a wine in a couple minutes, equivalent to a couple hour decant. My early tests do support this claim. The glasses really do aerate wine quickly. This is a big help if you don't have time to decant, or when you are only drinking one glass, and don't plan ahead by pouring it an hour or so ahead of time. The downside, I have found, is that the aeration process doesn't stop. So if you don't drink what's in the glass within 30 minutes, it can seem flat after that. Not a problem if you understand this in advance. But I don't think I'd use them for any older, more expensive wines because of that.
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