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Chateauneuf-du-Pape Dinner with Harry Karis
Againn, Washington DC
Tasted November 30, 2010 by tooch with 1,053 views
Introduction
Had a beautiful dinner with a small group in Washington, DC at Againn. The guest of honor was Chateauneuf-du-Pape historian Harry Karis. Harry shared incredible insights with the group in addition to providing feedback on recent vintages, the wine shops to avoid in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and how some vintners like to piss in their vineyards. It was a wonderful dinner - the food was flawlessly prepared by Executive Chef Wes Morton and the service was top rate.
Flight 1 - Welcome Whites (2 notes)
Served with a selection of in-house made head cheese tourine, cured meats, and bread.
White - Sparkling
2002 Bertrand-Delespierre Champagne Premier Cru Brut
93 points
Zesty nose of yeast, citrus and slate. Palate is quite supple, polished, and modern. Citrus notes of limes and limes abound with a touch of creamy white peach towards the finish. A modern styled 2002 champagne, but incredibly tasty.
White - Off-dry
1989 Von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese
93 points
Beautiful dark orange color. Nose had a melange of tropical fruits, apricot jam, and stone fruit. Beautiful tones of petrol, lanolin, spring flowers and chalk on the palate with faint, but evident roasted herbs in the background. The feel of the palate was so subtle, yet absolutely profound in its clarity. Acidity was slightly wavering on the finish, but there's no doubt that this is nearing (or has entered) its prime drinking window. Beautiful wine.
Flight 2 - Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (2 notes)
Served with a scallop and arugula salad - on top of the salad was shaved fennel, locally sourced pears, and lemon dressing.
White
2007 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
91 points
Thought this showed slightly better than it did back in April. Nose had really nice white flowers, lanolin, and a subtle honey component. The palate of the wine was very elegant, and gentle. Typically, I think of Chateaufneuf-de-Pape blanc as a brutish white wine, but this was very subtle, reserved, and delicate. It opened up nicely over 30 minutes and was a very nice pairing with charcuterie. The 2007 Donjon blanc continues to impress.
White
2007 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc
88 points
Nose was a bit closed at first, but sprung to life with fresh herbs, dandelion stems and subtle honeycomb. This wine was a bit more angular than the Donjon blanc that was drank alongside. Much like the Donjon this benefited from increased temperature and air time - soon developing some nice lemon oil and sage flavors. Doesn't have the polish the Donjon does on the finish.
Flight 3 - 1994 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Flight (2 notes)
Was served between the first course and the second course - both wines showed very well, but the finish on the Beaucastel was far superior to the Pegau.
Red
1994 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
94 points
Gorgeous nose that benefited from air time. Amazingly dense roasted herbs, dried rose petals, blood and sous bois on the nose. This is a clear example of why patience is absolutely necessary with Beaucastel - despite the 16 years this has been bottled, this has a long time to go and much to give. Right now, it's a beauty - incredibly deep red fruit, subtle coffee, truffle, and roasted mushroom flavors on the palate. Finish is just endless. Wonderful.
Red
1994 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
90 points
Classic Pegau nose of cured meats, leather, iodine, black licorice, and black fruit. I really enjoyed the palate on this wine - with olives, meats, and sous bois. I did find the finish a bit thin.
Flight 4 - Chateauneuf-du-Pape Flight II (5 notes)
Served with a house made venison sausage; accompanied by a brussel sprout chiffanade, roasted sweet potatoes, in a house made venison broth.
Red
1988 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape
95 points
A serious wine. Incredible nose of incense, black olives, burnt herbs, and meats drippings. Could have just smelled the nose...but the palate certainly kept the party going. Really dense, masculine, and dark flavors. Flavors of black licorice, blackberries, coffee grinds, olive tapenade, and balsamic dominate the palate. Many thought it was still backward - despite being 22 years old. No question this bottle is still evolving, but I was blown away by its complexity and power.
Red
1989 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape
90 points
Nose was full of dense spices, coffee, tilled soil, sous bois and red fruit. Incredible depth on the palate with the red fruit showing quite well. Flavors were well resolved and integrated. Didn't take as detailed notes as I should have for this one.
Red
1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
97 points
Where to start....
The nose is absurd. So deep, rich, and complex. Tones of underbrush, grange, olives, dried rose petals mix effortlessly with tertiary flavors of coffee, blood and aged saddle leather. Palate exploded with earth flavors, mushrooms, cassis, black cherry, and roses. So elegant, so refinded, so lithe. Just an effortless wine. Despite it's relatively light mouthfeel, I think this is one of the most profound wines I've ever tasted. Harmoniously paired with a beautiful lamb shoulder - I could not have asked for a better way to enjoy this wine. Simply sublime.
The nose is absurd. So deep, rich, and complex. Tones of underbrush, grange, olives, dried rose petals mix effortlessly with tertiary flavors of coffee, blood and aged saddle leather. Palate exploded with earth flavors, mushrooms, cassis, black cherry, and roses. So elegant, so refinded, so lithe. Just an effortless wine. Despite it's relatively light mouthfeel, I think this is one of the most profound wines I've ever tasted. Harmoniously paired with a beautiful lamb shoulder - I could not have asked for a better way to enjoy this wine. Simply sublime.
Red
1995 Domaine de Pignan Châteauneuf-du-Pape
89 points
Relatively reserved nose of cherries, coffee, and cassis. Felt that this one didn't show all too well when drank alongside the 1990 Beaucastel - just not in the same class. Despite its brutish cohort, the wine had a very elegant form that was quite nice. Great floral component to the palate.
Flight 5 - Chateauneuf-du-Pape Flight III (4 notes)
Served with braised lamb shoulder in a flageolet bean and kale stew with a red wine lamb jus on top.
Red
1998 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de mon Aïeul
flawed
Probably an off bottle. Nose never developed and the wine was backwards. Some thought it was cooked, but no one thought it was "right".
Red
1998 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape
92 points
Another classic example of Chateauneuf from Donjon. This is the second time I've enjoyed its 1998 vintage, and I felt it performed at the same level. Great combination of red fruit,"chicken-coop" aromas, and roasted herbs. Another great bottle.
Red
1998 Domaine du Pégau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
91 points
I enjoyed the nose on this wine, with the classic Pegau funkiness - olives, blood, iodine, and provencal herbs. The palate never really opened up for me here. I found the wine very young and a bit shut down. At times, I could tell the classic Pegau character was poking it's head around the marble column...but unfortunately, it never revealed itself completely. The back end of this wine is so firm and masculine that a couple of us thought this was a couple years away from really showing its potential. Give this a SERIOUS decant if you're planning on opening one in the near term.
Red
1999 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf-du-Pape
94 points
This wine showed very well. Nose was intoxicating rich with flavors of decaying leaves, violets, mushrooms, and garrigue. I will echo Faryan's comments from a previous note that while this doesn't have the brutish charm of Pegau or the blood/iodine driven palate of the Beaucastel, it has an elegance that takes those wines decades to achieve. An absolute pleasure to drink and a wine that will age effortlessly for 10-15 years.
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Comment
Flight 6 - Desert (1 note)
Served with a chef's selection of cheeses.
White - Off-dry
2004 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Schlossberg Vendanges Tardives
92 points
Melange of tropical fruits on the nose with a creamy component. Rich wine that has a beautiful minearlity component. Great acidic kick on the finish - very lithe wine.
Closing
While my notes emphasize the wines, I have to mention that the food probably out-did the wine. Each course was just incredible. I highly recommend Againn.