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Tasting Group Dinner - Chateauneuf & More
In Season, Minneapolis
Tasted December 14, 2010 by Siggy with 648 views
Introduction
Six of our regulars -- Dave Dalluge, Chris Larson, Craig Vanderah, Dave McMahon, Brad Ballinger, and me -- met at In Season, Don Saunders' new restaurant in south Minneapolis, on a ridiculously snowy December evening for a CDP-themed offline. We were all big fans of Chef Saunders when he was the head chef at the now-defunct Fugaise, and it was fun to experience his cooking in a more casual, neighborhood setting. For me, the food highlight of the evening was an ethereally flavorful braised oxtail course, with braised kale and polenta -- so good that we ordered another round. The staff took great care of us, and we will definitely be back. My WOTN was Dave's '85 Vieux Telegraphe.
Flight 1 (12 notes)
White - Sparkling
N.V. Franck Bonville Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Les Belles Voyes
92 points
Not sure of the vintage blend here; this bottle was sourced from K&L in April 2010. Youthfully fresh and exuberant, showing rich, deep fruit that was more buttery/nutty in character (as opposed to the citrus-dominated flavors in many BdBs). Interesting rice cereal/sushi rice note. Creamy, smooth texture that builds to a crisp, long finish. Lots of unique character here. Will probably be drinking even better with a year or two of bottle age.
White
2007 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère
Very prominent toasty oak nose that carries through to the palate. Primary, thick, tropical-inflected fruit, cream, and lemon/lemon curd flavors, with a touch of heat on the harsh finish. Really dominated by new oak at this point in its life. This comes across as quite awkward and clumsy at the moment, and no doubt needs time to settle down. Judgment reserved.
White
2007 Paul et Marie Jacqueson Rully 1er Cru Gresigny Blanc
91 points
Ordered off the list. First time I've tasted this wine since the 2002 vintage. Fragrant and classy, showing flavors of grapefruit, citrus, smoke, and melon, in a sleek frame. Pretty, mid-weight, with pure fruit that builds to a long finish. Drinking very well now. To my palate, this producer consistently transcends his relatively humble Côte Chalonnaise appellations -- this bottle was no exception.
Red
1985 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape
95 points
Second time tasted, from the same source. Utterly beautiful, mature, classic CDP. Complex layers of secondary and tertiary flavors that meld dynamically with still-fresh, lively, red fruit. Deep and rich, showing a melange of truffles, baking spices, minerals, and beef broth flavors, suffused with garrigue. Elegant, mid-weight, silky mouthfeel. Just flat-out gorgeous, and my WOTN.
Red
Red
1992 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Célestins
93 points
Second time tasted. In comparison to the '85 Vieux Telegraphe, tasted side-by-side (see TN), the '92 Celestins showed darker fruit and a much more pronounced iron/mineral streak. Classic mature CDP flavors -- herb-encrusted steak in a glass. The finish was just a bit thinner than the bottle I tasted last year, and this bottle overall was just a touch more tired, but still quite elegant and complex.
Red
1998 Roger Sabon Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Prestige
86 points
Strong reduction on the initial nose -- horse and rubber -- blew off after about half an hour. Modern in style, with ripe kirsch/liquor notes on the nose that carry through to a palate that shows licorice/anise and mature, pruny black fruit. Finishes clumsy and a bit flat, with a touch of heat. Seems to be on a fast evolutionary path. Based on this bottle and my TN from last year, I would be drinking these up relatively soon.
Red
1999 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de mon Aïeul
91 points
Second time tasted. An interesting contrast to the '98 Sabon Prestige, tasted side-by-side (see TN). The '99 Mon Aieul is also on the modern side stylistically, but was fresher and less pruny than the Sabon, perhaps reflecting the cooler character of the vintage. Kirsch and fresh herbs on the nose; ripe, slightly sweet palate that has a nice degree of elegance and structure to counterbalance the sweet fruit. This seems to be aging quite well.
Red
2005 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Too young to evaluate properly. Seems to be a classic Charvin CDP -- elegance and class. Wait 5+ years.
Red
2005 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau
Too young to evaluate properly. Seems very promising -- rich dark fruit and fresh herbs. Really smooth. Wait 5+ years.
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Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
1999 Pieropan Recioto di Soave Le Colombare
Light amber/orange color. Nuts and orange/orange peel flavors. Only moderately sweet. Quite mature; a touch sherried, but still pleasant.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2006 Fattori Recioto di Soave Motto Piane
Orange zest, flowers, and maraschino cherry. Moderately sweet. Fresh and fun.