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Rousseau dinner

The Ledbury, London

Tasted March 10, 2011 by Rupert with 984 views

Introduction

David Wainwright arranged for 14 Rousseau lovers to each bring a bottle and what a line-up we had! But I was still unprepared for how wonderful these wines would be. This was, by some distance, the most awe-inspiring wine event I've been to. The Chambertins are grand, and beautiful and charming at the same time. Words cannot do these wines justice. They were just perfect.

Flight 1 - with Canapés (1 note)

White - Sparkling
1981 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut France, Champagne
93 points
Round, oxidative, of course, but lovely balance and freshness, an oriental spiciness, a savoury bite

Flight 2 - with Velouté of jerusalem artichoke with cheese and ham on toast (4 notes)

Red
2000 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
93 points
Beautiful cherry fragrance, some green in there, but pure, high toned, penetrating - beautiful
Red
1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
94 points
Much weightier than the 2000, but with the same cherry fruit profile, riper, deeper, more reserved, just about approachable, clearly fine and grand
Red
1996 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
95 points
Funky nose, spice and breadth to add to the red fruits, this has really come together tonight, complete and spectacular
Red
1989 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
94 points
Softer than the preceding wines, both in texture and in flavour profile, but again a gorgeous combination of red fruit and spice, all in perfect balance

Flight 3 - with Grilled lamb's tongue with celeriac baked in salt crust and caramelised onion purée (3 notes)

Red
1998 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
95 points
Regal, fine, restrained, this broadened out to reveal satiny red fruits, needs time but clearly superb
Red
1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Clos des Ruchottes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
95 points
Wow! So elegant. Fine, clean, fully expressive, absolutely enchanting
Red
1999 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
94 points
Salty entry, tighter than the preceding wines, lighter, but one can sense the intensity there which will come out in due course

Flight 4 - with Roast sea bass with truffle purée, parsnips and (for the non-nut-allergy sufferers) fresh chestnuts (4 notes)

Red
1983 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
flawed
Sweaty oxidised nose, decent sweet fruit on the palate, and red fruits at that, lots of tannin - but the nose is just too offputting
Red
1983 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
98 points
After the unclean Beze, this is all purity, lean, rocky, silky and powerful, but with so many subtle flavours - this may be the best wine I've ever had
Red
1989 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
98 points
My goodness, I'm speechless with wonder at this - it has everything - so many facets, but all perfectly proportioned, too wonderful for words
Red
1990 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
99 points
This goes even further, red fruits, and roses, and minerals, and there's a warmth, grand and lovable - indescribably wonderful

Flight 5 - with Breast and confit of chicken with tarte fine of wild mushroom (3 notes)

Red
1993 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
96 points
Doesn't quite have the grandeur of the Chambertins, but this is again superbly poised, the fruit and spice in perfect balance
Red
1993 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
98 points
Darker and deeper than the CSJ, but with the same perfect balance, even more nuance, just perfect
Red
1993 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
98 points
A tad lighter toned than the Chambertin, less grand, more luminous, yet again that fantastic harmony

Flight 6 - with Brown sugar tart with muscat grapes and stem ginger ice cream (1 note)

White - Fortified
1910 Barbeito Madeira Boal Portugal, Madeira
95 points
Salty, celery, but sweet too, and quite amazing breadth. Superb
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