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Coq au Vin Jaune
NYC
Tasted March 30, 2013 by rm wines with 681 views
Introduction
Zach cooked some really excellent coq au vin jaune, and we opened up some great wines. Very good showings all around from some of our favorite producers. We also sampled some excellent Italian olive oils from Cornelissen and Occhipinti.
Flight 1 (2 notes)
White
2008 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Marnes Bleues Les Chalasses
Another bottle that shows why this may be Ganevat's best site. An interesting stylistic shift from the '09 that we tasted at the same time, this bottle showed a tremendous richness along with some chalky/stony notes in the nose. The intensity carried over into the palate, which, while still backed up with plenty of acidity, was ultimately balanced with a touch of bitterness on the finish. I think the comparison to serious white burgundy is very apt, and this wine should develop in some very interesting ways.
White
2009 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Marnes Bleues Les Chalasses
Fantastic acidity and minerality that defies the reputation of the vintage. In comparison to the '08 tasted side-by-side, the flavors were more linear and acid-driven with citrus nearly everywhere you look. While this one lacked some of the stuffing that was in the '08, it was still quite balanced and delicious. It should also develop considerably with more time in the cellar.
Flight 2 (3 notes)
White
2010 Emmanuel Houillon (Maison Pierre Overnoy) Chardonnay Arbois Pupillin
Fortunately for us, this was a bottle that illustrated in no uncertain terms the special magic of this winemaker. The vast array of bright fresh fruit on the nose is backed up by a slight hint of something smoky-- perhaps it's a bit reductive but I think this flavor is so subtle that it actually added to the wine. The funk and flavor continue on the exceptionally well-balanced palate, and the lengthy finish is just another reminder that the producer is really on to something special.
White
2005 Emmanuel Houillon (Maison Pierre Overnoy) Savagnin Arbois Pupillin
This wine had an incredible richness on the nose, with many savory notes and hint of butter. It was quite the contrast to the high-toned fruit that drove the younger Chardonnay we tasted alongside. However, on the palate that richness was balanced out by the strong core of minerality in this wine. The juxtaposition of these flavors is exquisite-- to use the tired phrase: "it is power without weight." But it really is. This is wine made by a true artist.
White
1983 Camille Loye Chardonnay Arbois Cuvée Saint Paul
No amount of hype from the merchant that peddled this wine could save it. There were some nice aged caramel notes on the nose, but the wine was totally lacking in every other way. The wine is not quite over-the-hill; it survived its journey, but it was never headed anywhere worth going in the first place. Very weak especially considering the price.
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Comments (1)
Flight 3 (3 notes)
White
1988 Jacques Puffeney Arbois Vin Jaune
This wine reminded me of some of the best older fino sherry. Nuttiness everywhere on the nose and palate, with a really powerful saline streak in the mouth. Delicious stuff.
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Comment
White
1975 Jean Bourdy Château-Chalon
If I had been served this blind, I might have guessed that it was a very old bottle of Huet. The nose is dominated by the same wooly/stony flavors that I usually associate with old chenin. The palate offers up a layer of tangy fruits on top of the incredibly deep minerality. With the zippy acidity and still-youthful fruit, I'd expect this wine to continue to improve with time. Definitely the wine of the night.
White
2003 Jean-François Ganevat Vin Jaune
A very sharp nose with notes of butter-- there is quite a bit of flavor here but it will need a lot more time to integrate. This wine is at the more powerful end of the spectrum for Vin Jaune, but it has enough acidity on the palate to be well balanced. At this age, this wine begs for a rich meal, and it was much more enjoyable with Zach's coq au vin jaune. Give it time.
Flight 4 (2 notes)
Red
2010 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Cuvée de l'enfant terrible
Decanted to remove CO2. Certainly a nice example of poulsard, but I didn't find it to be that exciting. There is a little hint of red fruit on the restrained nose and a bit more on the palate, but overall it was lacking depth.
Red - Fortified
N.V. Château d'Arlay Macvin du Jura Vin de liqueur macvin
Tasted the Macvin Rogue. A funky nose that doesn't give many hints as to the sweetness to come. Jam on the palate almost to the point of a strawberry fruit roll-up with some moderate herbal flavors in the background. Definitely tasty although quite cloying as there is not enough acidity in this style of wine.
Closing
Olive oils:
Cornelissen Contadino NV - This is the entry level Cornelissen olive oil, packaged in the same 750mL bottles he uses for his wine. Of the three we tasted, it was lightest and simplest, but still quite enjoyable (and miles better than most of the plonk that is sold as olive oil in the US). The flavor was dominated by grassy notes with a bit of pepper and fruit.
Occhipinti Gheta '11 - From 500mL. Brighter flavors than the two Cornelissens with a strong flavor of citrus. Very tasty but ultimately not as complex as the Munjebel.
Cornelissen Munjebel NV - Packaged in 375mL. The most complex flavors of the three oils. A slight grassy note in the background, but a set of savory elements that I didn't see in the other two. Nicely peppery on the finish with a taste that's a bit like prosciutto. Fantastic stuff.