Aromas of cherry, vanilla and a touch of leather but it also seems slightly oxidised (despite being freshly opened). Slightly scorched fruit on the palate. Tough as old boots. 15.5/20.

Some dusty plum on the nose. Very dry palate again. Lots of dusty extract. Pretty average. 15/20.

Slightly briary aromas. Palate is fresher than the Finca San Martin and the Torre de Oña but this tastes (and looks) older than a 2006. A little tired. OK. 16/20.

Briary again - also some leather and plum. Lots of fine, slightly dusty tannin but fresh finish. A little tart through the mid-palate but should soften in a year or two. 16/20. 2015+

Spicy, sweaty and briary aromas. Then sweet cherry fruit. Very chewy just now but has enough acidity to see it right. 16+/20. 2015+

Cherry, vanilla and (unusually for Rioja?) limestone. Sweet entry. Much finer - and riper - tannin. Taut and focussed. A little tart but it should ease off. Fresh and elegant. 16.5+/20. 2016+

Lovely bouquet with some soft perfume alongside the red fruit. Still youthful. Slightly oxidised mid-palate but fresh finish. Chalky texture. But how much?! Just shy of £100... 16.5/20.

Quite a spicy and funky nose; not much fruit in evidence. Lots of mouthcoating dry tannin; almost like a young Barolo. Rich, dark fruit. Needs time. 16+/20. 2016+

Oddly chemical nose: burnt plastic? Lots of chewy extract. Dark, overripe fruit. Hard work. 15.5/20.

Nose is fairly mute other than a hint of VA. Chewy again. Cherry fruit but a fair bit of dusty tannin. Lacks freshness. 15.5/20.

Very yeasty nose - then a mix of sweat, spice, mahogany and furniture polish: good luck picking this as a Pinot if you're served it blind. Juicy entry but then an unexpected amount of tannic structure. Pretty muscular for Pinot and it'll be a while before the tannins resolve but there's some decent cherry fruit so it might repay the wait. 16+/20. 2016+

Spicy, funky aromas with a touch of dark fruit. Palate is more floral/perfumed with - I think - some whole bunch influence. Fresh. Good grip. Lovely wine. 16.5+/20. 2014+

Fresh, minty palate with decent acid backbone: there's only 20% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend (vs. 70% Callet) but it makes its presence felt. Black fruit. Sleek but muscular: panther-like, if you'll permit me an animal analogy. Very good. 17/20.

Juicy with a bit of stalky grip. Quite a savoury, appetising style. Food-friendly structure. Good. Decent value, too. 16.5/20.

Very sweaty nose. But (fortunately) a fresh, elegant palate. Some oak influence but pretty well integrated. Rich, dark fruit. Fresh finish. Good. 16.5/20.

Marine/mineral nose with some fresh citrus. Palate is slightly sweeter than the Albariño norm and a touch cloying as a result. Chalky finish. 15.5/20.

Floral and grapey aromas. Dry, mineral palate but lovely fresh finish. A little one-dimensional for a £10+ Godello. 16/20.

Rich, honied nose with a little oatmeal. Creamy, citrus palate with a saline freshness to the finish. Much more complex than the Gargalo. Really good. 16.5/20.

Waxy, lanolin nose. Then a lovely savoury palate. Like mature Hunter Semillon but richer/weightier. Great. 17/20.

Aromas of wax, vanilla and toasty oak - really distinctive and alluring. Dry and slightly oxidative in style. Lovely saline finish. Pithy, citrus fruit keeps it fresh. Fantastic. 17.5/20.

Aromas of lemon and white nuts. Very dry and savoury with real intensity. Lots of depth. Real bite to the bone dry finish. So distinctive. 16.5/20.