{cork, 12%} (DavidC) Stunning nose; all bakery notes, with butter and cream. The palate shows a little development, but only in a complexity sense; it’s not lacking freshness by any means. Powerfully acidic, medium/full-bodied; bears all the hallmarks of its nine years on lees. Perfect chardonnay fruit, leesy influences, an even dry palate, with great intensity and terrific length. Will keep for years (if the cork holds). Stunning wine.

{cork, 14.5%} (Geoffrey) Smoke and oak, spices and black pepper. And has enough vanilla in it to be accused of impersonating a Rioja. There’s plenty of sweet caramel oak on the palate, still some medium chalky tannins, and a memory of berry/shiraz fruit. Medium-bodied but has plenty of presence on the mid-palate; finishes medium length. Lacks great complexity, but it’s a very pleasant effort for all that.

{cork, 13%} (Graeme) Developing aromas of pepper and spice are gently alluring here; it’s not a new world bomb, clearly. This is very nicely proportioned; medium-bodied with crisp acid; smoky charcoal hints to the spicy fruit – it’s reasonably oaky but not overdone and hangs together very well. Very well-balanced; the whole palate is engaged, and the medium/long savoury finish avoids harshness and astringency. Ready to drink, but holding very nicely.

{screwcap, 14%} (Ronnie) Schulz were clearly early adopters when it came to closures; you don’t get to try many 13-year-old screwcap-sealed reds. This is stunning, however. It’s moved on from smelling very young, but there’s still loads of liquorice and blueberry aromas, swathed in sweet oak. No-one would believe that it’s 13 years old. The palate is full-bodied, plump, ripe and velvety; like wallowing in a vast overstuffed armchair. Thoroughly luxurious. What’s hugely impressive is that the tannin and acid structure still supports it nicely. There’s a bit more age evident on the palate, with anise and tobacco notes adding to the complexity of flavours. Long finish; despite the richness of the plummy fruits it doesn’t sag or cloy, nor does it veer towards fruit-bomb sweet. A class act, true to the spirit of the Barossa, good for another ten years at least on this showing.

{cork, 14.5%} (Gordon) Doouble-decanted two hours prior. This is very much in the style of Barossa flagships of the era, which is to say that US-oak vanilla and coconut dominate proceedings here. There is plummy blackberry and blueberry fruit too, but there’s no getting away from that oak. This is quite developed, with loose powdery tannins and fairly soft acid; it is full-bodied, and has lots of impact on the mid-palate. Medium length finish, dry; impressive and weighty but seems just a bit one-dimensional after the Schulz. At peak I’d say; drink within 3 years because I don’t see more complexity coming here.

{cork, 14.5%} (Bruce) A big, lavish, somewhat developed McLaren Vale classic. Liquorice, chocolate, vanilla. All the standard bells & whistles. Full-bodied, with softening dusty tannins, voluptuous red fruit, and a smeary, ripe texture; the interest is all on the mid-palate here. No surprises; the medium-length finish is dry and avoids heat. Not cerebral, but rich and chewy and delicious. If the cork is good, another 5-10 years won’t hurt this.

{375ml, screwcap, 10.5%} (DavidC) Rather aged nose; vanilla, copper and maderised apricot aromas. The palate follows on; it’s rich, sweet and bronzed in flavour. Luscious, medium-bodied, but far from complex. Medium length finish. This label is usually best before it turns five. Enjoyable enough, that’s all.