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Helping a friend with a north-east Italian Wine List
TBD
Tasted April 3, 2014 - April 10, 2014 by Loren Sonkin with 6,147 views
Introduction
A friend on mine is opening a restaurant and asked me to help with his wine list. The theme is going to be based on north-east Italian cuisine but also some surrounding areas. It is a high end place with a James Beard winning chef. I have been sitting in as vendors come to show their wines. Mostly, they have been showing by the glass pours, but he will also have some medium and higher end wines on the list. Not as much wine makes it into Ohio, but there is some representation. Partial catalogs of Thiese, Skurnik and Rosenthal come in (and others can be brought in). If anyone has a suggestion, I would love to hear it. Here is what I have had so far:
Flight 1 - Vendor #1: (4 notes)
White
2011 Weingut Hermann Moser Riesling Gebling Kremstal
87 points
Screw capped. Silvery/gold/green in color. The nose has some tropical fruit but a bit of a green/herbal/lime note. Reminds me of a Gruner. Slight spritz. Nice acidity. This is not particularly food friendly. Its a fat wine than might make a decent cocktail.
Red
2012 Abbazia di Novacella (Stiftskellerei Neustift) Schiava
89 points
Pale ruby in color. The nose is slight and a bit candied. Its bigger on the palate with some complexity. Cherries with a slight menthol note on the finish. Nice value.
Red
2011 Tommasi Valpolicella Classico Superiore Rafael
89 points
Ruby, slight purple in color. The nose has some cherries. Nice juicy acidity. Great body. Some tannins. Dark cherries. Needs some air or time but drinking well.
Flight 2 - Vendor #2: (13 notes)
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Brut Rosé
88 points
A blend of Zweigelt, St. Laurent and Pinot Noir. The nose is tart rhubarb and cherries. Tart cranberries on the palate. Still, it is very nice and probably very food friendly. A nice acidity. Not a fruit bomb and requires food, but salty foods would work well. Long finish.
White
2012 Weingut Markus Huber Grüner Veltliner
89 points
The nose has green bell pepper, white pepper and a slight lemon note. Oily texture. Tart, lemony on the palate. Nice finish. Someone said sweet, but I found it dry. Nice acidity. I thought this very food friendly and of good value.
White
2012 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Gobelsburger
86 points
the nose has lemons and has a waxy (almost Roussane-ish) quality to it. Sweet on the attack. Tart turning slightly harsh on the finish. Others seemed to like this more than I. I did not find typicity here. Also a spritzy acidity. Screwcapped.
White
2011 Weingut Hirsch Riesling Zöbing
87 points
Interesting wine. Not much fruit, this is all about minerality. Oily texture. Some limes on the palate, but more minerals. Slightly bitter on the finish. Some heat. I expected more here. Screw capped.
White
2012 Darting Dürkheimer Nonnengarten Gewürztraminer Kabinett
86 points
Lychees on the nose. This is very sweet and slightly flabby. I don't drink many gewurtz designated like this, but sure seems riper and sweeter than I expect a Kabinett to drink. Doesn't seem food friendly to me.
White
2012 Gini Soave Classico
90 points
I am a fan of these wines. The basic bottling is a nice intro to their single vineyard stuff. This is dry as a bone. Minerals, honey and some Chablis-like chalk. Great body. Very nice balance. A palate that is mineral driven. Long finish. Really nice value, but why not spend the extra money for the single vineyards.
Red
2011 Viticoltori Alto Adige Pinot Noir Alto Adige - Südtirol San Pietro
82 points
Not a fan of this. Certainly drinkable. Light ruby in color. The nose has light cherries. lightly bitter, but thin and weak. Slightly vegetal. Why bother. I know, some will like this, and that's fine. Its not expensive.
Red
2011 Meßmer Pinot Noir
85 points
Comes in a IL bottle. Cherry powder on the nose. Nice enough and drinkable. Fairly priced. A cherry cough drop thing on the palate. Tart on the finish. Pleasant, nothing more.
Red
2012 Viticoltori Alto Adige Lagrein Alto Adige - Südtirol San Pietro
89 points
Ruby/purple in color. The nose is dark cherries. Very smooth and easy. Black raspberries on the palate. Even some complexity here. Not sure how it ages, but a few years I would think. At under $15, there is real value here.
Red
2012 Sattler St. Laurent
90 points
Screw capped. Pretty wine, garnet in color. The has a big, juicy, dark cherry nose. nice rich texture. Black raspberries and slight chocolate notes on the palate. Long finish. At under $20, there is real value here. Quite enjoyable.
Red
2011 Weingut Markus Huber Zweigelt
87 points
Odd nose. Described as smoky, I found it more like pickled cabbage. Better on the palate. Boysenberries. Nice acidity. Tart/long finish. The nose didn't work for me. Other's didn't seem bothered. Just ok.
Red
2007 Grosjean Fumin Valle d'Aosta
88 points
A real treat to try this. I had not had this in a while (different vintage). My reaction is the same. Interesting. A nice geek-out but not worth the money IMO. The nose is nice. Sweaty with some celery and cherries. More dark cherry like on the palate. Nice acidity. A green streak on the finish. Pretty cool to drink. I bet its better in VdA among the mountains. :-)
Red
2011 Mazzi Valpolicella Classico Superiore Sanperetto
87 points
Ruby in color. The nose has nice cherries, dried cherries, spice and a green herbal streak. Black cherries on the palate with a bit of rhubarb. A bit tart for my tastes in a Valpo but certainly very nice.
Flight 3 - Vendor #3 (5 notes)
White
2012 Fattori Soave Danieli
89 points
This is nice. Around 5% of the grapes are late harvest. Light gold/green in color. The nose is flora and steely with a slight sweet quality. Tart pears on the attack. Nice acidity. A slight sweetness perhaps but more evident in the body of the wine. Slightly oily/citrus finish. I liked this a lot and good value.
White
2012 Zuani Vigne Bianco
87 points
Light green/gold in color. The nose is green apples on pouring but shuts tight in the glass. This is round and a bit flabby (I know, so am I). Still, I was expecting some zip and there is none. Turns fruity on the finish. Nice enough, but that's it.
Red
2008 Marco Cecchini Friuli Colli Orientali Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso
89 points
This is nice. A rustic wine to be sure. Ruby, clear and bright. The nose is red berries, black raspberries and slight prune notes. Maybe a hint of clove cigarettes. Nice texture. Firm tannins. Fresh, tart red berries, cranberries and cherries. Nice acidity.
Red
2010 Podere La Berta Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore Solano
84 points
From the makers of Felsina in Tuscany. Ruby/purple in color. The nose is cherries with a slight cherry cough drop. Nice texture. Week and thin cherry fruit. Strong tannins. I think this retails for over $20 and is not worth it IMO. Certainly not the quality of Felsina.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2007 Marco Cecchini Friuli Colli Orientali Picolit
90 points
Honey color. The nose has canned peaches and some honey. Meidum bodied. Feels like a sweet wine, but tastes only a bit sweet. Its nice. I prefer more cut. Its also $40 for a 500ml. Much more than I would pay. YMMV.
Flight 4 - Vendor #4 (10 notes)
White - Sparkling
N.V. Desiderio Jeio (Bisol) Prosecco di Valdobbiadene Brut
89 points
Silver/gold in color. The nose has red apples. Nice acidity. Slightly sweet with notes of apples with some honey. Long finish. vary nice Prosecco. This is their value version I am told.
White
2012 Lechthaler Pinot Grigio
87 points
Silvery/copper/gold in color. The nose has seltzer turning to pears. This is soft and creamy with a rich texture. Easy to drink. Limes and minerals on the palate. Almost flabby, but a hint of acid. Nice enough without food.
White
2012 Maso Poli Pinot Grigio Trentino
90 points
I really liked this one. Golden/slightly pink in color. The nose is tight but I think opens more with air. Mineral based. Nice body with an oily texture. White grapefruit turning up the intensity on the finish. Very nice finish at that.
White
2012 Istituto Agrario San Michele All'Adige Riesling Trentino
84 points
Silvery/gold in color. The nose has a distracting green streak. Kind of like artichokes. Soft texture. Some grapefruit. clipped finish. Its ok but there are better options.
Red
2011 Lechthaler Pinot Noir
81 points
This is actually labeled Pinot Noir. Cherries with a green herbal streak on the nose. Nicer on the attack, but then turns watery. Light cherries. Bitter on the finish. Long finish but I found it unpleasant.
Red
2011 Larcherhof Alto Adige - Südtirol
89 points
Purple in color, slightly inky. The nose has black raspberries and black cherries. Also some saddle leather. Nice body. Black raspberry fruit on the palate. Juicy acidity. Slight tannins with a smooth finish.
Red
2010 Weingut Gottardi Blauburgunder Mazzon
91 points
Ruby, clear and bright. The nose is very nice. Ripe cherries. No green showing. Young but I think some funk will develop. There is a start of an earthiness. Also some floral notes. On the palate, dark cherries. Very nice but not as complex as the nose. Perhaps with time. Light tannins. This retail for close to $60. Lots of competition at that price point, but it is a lovely wine.
Red
2012 Barone de Cles Teroldego Rotaliano Primo
88 points
Ruby/purple in color. The nose has black cherries. A streak of tarragon which is not unpleasant. On the palate, black cherries. Good acidity. Light tannins. Has some depth and room to improve.
Red
2011 Torre di Luna Cabernet Sauvignon
88 points
Ruby. Some purple in color. The nose has cherries and slight leather notes. Sweet on the attack. Cherries and dark cherries. Some tannins. A bit of menthol on the finish. For a $15 Cab, this is pretty good. Add that it is from the Veneto and I am impressed.
Red
2009 Tenuta San Leonardo Terre di San Leonardo
90 points
This is the second wine to San Leonardo. Ruby/purple in color. The nose is cherries, cigar tobacco and a bit of bell pepper. Nice texture. Black cherries and some earthiness on the palate. Complex. Nice acidity. At under $25, a nice wine for sure.
Flight 5 - Vendor #5 (15 notes)
White
2012 Kellerei Cantina Andrian Pinot Grigio
86 points
Green/gold in color. Slight copper notes. The nose has some minerals. Soft texture. Minerals with some lemons on the palate. Its ok, but innocuous. Nothing wrong, but that's about it.
White
2012 Cantina Terlan Pinot Grigio
86 points
Green/gold in color. The nose has slight button mushrooms. Also some minerals. It is ripe, perhaps some rs? Almonds on the palate turning a bit bitter on the finish.
White
2012 La Vis Pinot Grigio Dipinti Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT
83 points
Screw capped. Green/gold in color. The nose is dusty/waxy. Generic white. A bit bitter on the finish. This is inexpensive.
Rosé
2012 Kellerei Cantina Andrian Lagrein
85 points
Pale cranberry in color. The nose has rhubarb with a slight funk. Cranberries on the palate. A bit generic. Nice finish though. Crisp and clean.
Red
2011 Kellerei Cantina Andrian Blauburgunder
88 points
Ruby in color. Clear and bright. The nose has cherries and that slight root beer note I often associate with RRV. On the palate, its slightly candied cherry fruit. Slight tannins. Nothing green or under ripe. Nice solid Pinot.
Red
2012 Cantina Terlan Pinot Nero
88 points
Ruby in color, clear and bright. The nose is sweet, floral with cherries. Soft texture. Light cherries on the palate. Slight menthol note on the finish.
Red
2009 Cantina Terlan Pinot Noir Riserva Montigl
89 points
Ruby with a slight orange hue to it. The nose is fleshy with some cherries. Nice texture. Slightly ripe. Light cherries on the palate. Nice finish. Not a big step up from the regular but both solid.
White
2012 Cantina Terlan Terlano Terlaner Classico
89 points
Light gold in color. The nose is big with floral notes and a slight vanilla quality. Also minerals. A hint of sweetness on the rich palate. Nice mouth feel. Minerals and lemons. A blend of Pino Bianco (60), Chardonnay (30) and Sauvignon Blanc (10).
White
2011 Cantina Terlan Pinot Bianco Terlano Riserva Vorberg
86 points
Green/gold in color. The nose is lemony. Nice cut on the wine. Slight vanilla/lemon milkshake. Turns alcoholic and hot on the finish.
White
2009 Cantina Terlan Terlano Nova Domus Riserva
91 points
Green/gold in color. The nose has oak, vanilla and lemon cream. Slightly oily texture. Better on the palate. Nice lemon fruit. This has a fair amount of oak, but the wine handles it nicely. A Pinot Blanc, Chard, Sauvignon Blanc blend. Very nice and should age out a few more years I think.
White
2012 Cantina Terlan Chardonnay Terlano Kreuth
90 points
Green/gold in color. The nose has vanilla, slight butterscotch and lemon chiffon. Nice balance. Lots of grapefruit on the finish. Its crisp enough to support all of the oak. While I might prefer other styles, I could see this being popular with many.
White
2011 Cantina Terlan Sauvignon Terlano Quarz
89 points
Green/gold in color. The nose has grapefruits and is slightly grassy. More to me like a Cal SB than anything else. On the palate, it is very intense. One of the few wines I can say that was too intense. To much pinpoint fruit and acidity. I wonder if air calms it down a bit. Its quite good, but perhaps will be even better. Interesting.
Red
2010 Novaia Ripasso della Valpolicella Classico Superiore
78 points
I did not get a look at the label and was surprised to hear it was a Ripasso. I thought it a straight Valpolicella maybe. Deep garnet in color. The nose has rhubarb. Some cough medicine. On the palate, this lacks the Ripasso texture (and raisin fruit). Turns bitter and the end and tannic.
Red
2011 Kellerei Cantina Andrian Lagrein Rubeno
86 points
Purple/ruby in color. The nose is tight with black pepper and slight dark cherries. Soft but nice texture. Black raspberry fruit. Light tannins. Nice easy drinking.
White
2012 Kellerei Cantina Andrian Chardonnay Somereto
87 points
Green/gold in color. The nose is lemony with minerals. Tart crab apples on the palate. Slightly oily. Slight heat on the finish.
Flight 6 - Vendor #6 (30 notes)
White
2012 Cantina di Soave Soave Classico Rocca Sveva
88 points
I liked this. Limes with some floral on the nose. Grapefruit on the palate with tart acidity. Nice body. Good finish. A very pleasant wine.
White
2012 M. Chapoutier Luberon Blanc La Ciboise
86 points
Slight funk to the nose. Wax and a bit lemony. Some burnt fruit on the palate. Heat on the finish. Hard to understand.
White
2012 Laurenz V. Grüner Veltliner Singing Laurenz und Sophie
88 points
Minerals on the nose. Limes come out with air. Slightly oily texture. Nice fruit. Nice acidity. Long finish.
White
2012 Domaines François Lurton Côtes du Roussillon Gros Manseng - Sauvignon Mas Janeil
88 points
Grassy on the nose. Bigger. Oily texture. Slight spritz. A summery wine. Soft acidity. Long finish. This is inexpensive and provides some real value.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Cantine Riondo Prosecco
87 points
I seemed to be in the minority on this one. I liked it more than the others. Its nothing complex but its a nice solid, slightly sweet Prosecco. Just a hint of bubbles and a hint of sweetness. I think a lot of people would like this. Sure there are better ones out there, but they are a few dollars more at that.
White
2011 Bovin Sauvignon
83 points
Yellow/green in color. The nose has minerals and peaches. Soft. Generic. No fruit on the palate. Certainly easy to drink.
White
2011 Bovin Chardonnay
73 points
Green gold in color. Rotten fruit on the nose. Maybe carrots. Disjointed on the palate. Hot blech finish. No obvious flaw but I wonder if this bottle is correct. Just weird.
White
2010 Bovin Symphony
78 points
A bit better than the Chard, but still that odd nose of rotten fruit. Thin. Some minerality. Its about $13 retail, but the fact this is close to the Chard in style makes me think this is what the wine is showing.
White
2010 Azienda Agricola Gradis'Ciutta Collio Bratinis
88 points
White gold in color. The nose is minerals, chalk and seltzer. Nice texture. Citrus on the long finish.
White
2012 Casa Vinicola Barbi Orvieto Classico Abboccato
87 points
Gold/green in color. The nose has minerals and 7-UP. Nice and refreshing. Simple. Slightly sweet. OK finish. A nice enough easy to drink wine.
White
2011 Lahnhof Pinot Bianco
88 points
Firmalein. Green gold in color. The nose has minerals. Slight peach notes. Nice texture. Peaches on the palate. Nice finish.
White
2011 Lahnhof Sauvignon
88 points
Grapefruit on the nose and palate. Very clean. Nice finish. A very pleasant sipper.
White
2012 Les Vignerons du Sommièrois Vin de Pays d'Oc Milou
84 points
Green gold in color. This is chardonnay. Innocuous and generic. No faults nor excitement. Bitter finish. Screw capped.
Red
2008 Triennes Var St Auguste
87 points
Purple/ruby in color. The nose has vanilla, black pepper and slight VA. Soft. Black raspberries and black cherries. Medium tannins. Nice wine.
Red
2012 Masi Valpolicella Classico Bonacosta
87 points
Nice solid Valpo. Deep ruby in color. The nose has cherries. Slight tannins. Nice texture. Tart cherries.
Red
2011 Michele Chiarlo Barbera d'Asti Superiore Le Orme
87 points
Ruby, clear and bright. The nose has black cherries with slight anise. Nice acidity. Cherries on the palate. Some complexity here, Nice finish. Pretty wine.
Red
2011 Castello Banfi Chianti Classico
87 points
Ruby, clear and bright. The nose has cherries. The palate cherries finishing with menthol. Slight tannins. This is nice, solid Chianti. Always tempting to dismiss such a huge production, but that would be a mistake.
Red
2009 Tenuta di Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva
90 points
Ruby, slight purple in color. The nose has black cherries with slight VA. Sweet cherry fruit. Nice texture. Medium tannins. Good finish. Pretty accessible right now. Probably will improve a bit from here though.
Red
2010 Masi Campofiorin
89 points
I like this wine year in and year out. Purple/ruby in color. The nose has black cherries. Tart cherries on the palate. Lots of tannins. Needs a bit of time to develop. Always a nice QPR.
Red
2009 Il Roverone Ripasso della Valpolicella Classico Superiore
89 points
Ruby/purple in color. The nose has dried cherries. Dark cherries on the palate. Some complexity. Slight tannins.
Red
2012 Castello di Gabbiano Solatìo Toscana IGT
87 points
Ruby/purple in color. Cherries on the nose. This is soft, easy to drink and international in style. Its a good red wine that could be made anywhere.
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Comment
Red
2009 Bovin Alexandar
86 points
Purple in color, slight ruby. Black cherries on the nose with green bell pepper. Nice acidity. It seems under ripe. I am told it is very hot where this is made, so perhaps the vines just shut down (or maybe picked on the early side).
Red
2009 Bovin Cabernet Sauvignon
86 points
Similar to the Alexandar. 13.5% Alc. Just seems under ripe. A decent wine but with a green streak in it. A bit smokier than the other wine.
Red
2009 Di Filippo Montefalco Sagrantino Étnico
89 points
Purple in color with some ruby. Black cherries and clack licorice on the nose. Ripe fruit. Dusty black raspberries on the palate. Dusty, slight heat on the finish. Tons of tannins. This needs some cellar time IMO to really show. Love to revisit in 10 years.
Red
2011 Castello Banfi Rosso di Montalcino
89 points
Again, a very solid wine. This producer deserves more credit I think. Ruby in color, clear and bright. The nose has nice cherries. Soft cherries on the palate. Easy to drink. Decent acidity. At least it has some sense of place.
Red
2011 Luce della Vite Lucente
90 points
Ruby/purple in color. This is a blend of Merlot, Syrah and Sangiovese. Black cherries on the nose with chocolate and mint. Black raspberries on the palate. There is some depth but needs time. A hefty amount of oak, but plenty of fruit to integrate in a few years. Tannic. International in style, at 14.8%, this could be from Cal. Still, it is a nice wine that many will like.
Red
2011 Ca' Marcanda (Gaja) Promis Toscana IGT
90 points
I haven't had this in years. It way always way over priced. This sells for $50 retail in Ohio and that is still an issue although perhaps not like it once was. Cherries and anise on the nose. Cherries on the palate. Nice texture. Long, good finish. A nice Tuscan red that will develop.
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Comment
Red
2008 Il Roverone Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
91 points
Purple, slight ruby in color. The nose is dusty with sweet cherries and a slight raisin note. Sweet but nor dried fruit on the palate. Plums and cherries. Long finish. Nice wine.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2011 Günther Schlink Ortega Beerenauslese Desire
88 points
This is about $15 retail, so pretty inexpensive. Golden in color. Thick texture. Nice nose with some green apples. A hint of guava. Smooth but lack cut. Just a bit of sweetness. Quite pleasant. Not sure when to drink this.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2010 Alois Kracher Cuvée Auslese
87 points
I think this is my Kracher since Alois passed away. Golden in color. The nose is odd with some tropical notes and banana. Mildly sweet. Innocuous at best. Lacks acidity.
Closing
For those who asked, the restaurant is Trentina which will be run by Chef Jonathon Sawyer in Cleveland's University Circle area. Opening in mid-May.