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Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino 1970-2006 (Magnum)
maze by Gordon Ramsey, London
Tasted May 12, 2014 by JonnyG with 1,403 views
Introduction
I post these meager notes with real trepidation, given (i) the profile of the event, (ii) the connoisseurship of my fellow tasters and (iii) the sheer volume of wines sampled. This was a memorable night, and as little justice as my words will do for the magnificent wines (all from magnum), the greater injustice is undoubtedly my failure to capture the emotional and heartfelt expressions of passion and patrimony conveyed throughout the evening by Roberto Conterno in extraordinarily emotive terms.
Flight 1 - 2002 Salon (1 note)
With passed appetizers
White - Sparkling
2002 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut
97 points
Light and agile, with delicate flavors and a persistence I have not found in any bottle to date. Interwoven layers of marzipan, ginger, saline, pear and cream. My highest scored bubbly ever.
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Flight 2 - To Start... (3 notes)
Three older vintages, served with crispy chicken thigh, charred baby gem lettuce and creamed turnip sauce
Red
1988 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
95 points
Savory nose of muted spices, earthy vanilla and a touch of espresso. Some mild bricking but this is hardly peaking. Prototypical tar and roses on the palate, somewhat muted, with mild acidity showing on the mid-palate. Really opened nicely over the evening, evolving into a gorgeous, gracious glass of classic Barolo.
Red
1993 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
96 points
A "wow" wine for me, seamless despite tremendous complexity, without an edge on it anywhere. Clay and dark fruits on the nose. A slightly floral palate, medium bodied, with a yeasty aspect and a lengthy finish showing ripe fruit and roasted meat, with a bit of caramel as well. Beautiful secondary notes emerged as the evening progressed. A gentle, astonishing wine.
Red
1995 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
93 points
A wine of the night on almost any other occasion, this bottle failed to distinguish itself amongst its giant brethren, but that is hardly a critique. The nose was especially generous, with loads of fennel, saddle leather and a touch of violets. Very high acidity, tannic, not yet in balance, but the licorice on the finish lingered beautifully.
Flight 3 - The Warm Vintages (4 notes)
Accompanied by a stunning foie gras terrine with pomegranates and Sauternes aspic
Red
1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
96 points
A very fresh nose of tar and some violets, with elements of minerality evidenced as well. On the palate, I thought the acid was a bit more apparent than expected, but it only took a bite of foie gras terrine to convert this to an impressive asset. The finish was persistent and complex. Flashes of greatness here but needs time.
Red
1997 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
97 points
Stubbornly tight and unyielding, but oh what rewards for those who persist! Stunningly complex, sweet dark fruit, leather, mocha and an acrid earthiness I struggle to express. In time this may well exceed the other wines tasted.
Red
1998 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
93 points
While not monumental in the way that the other vintages we tasted tonight were, I found this to be in its peak drinking window, perfectly mature, balanced and with surprising power. The tannins are fully integrated, and a fine acidity provides further lift.
Red
2000 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
94 points
Not evidencing the traditional side on this night, I found the 2000 to be extremely ripe, with an expressive, herbal nose and robust fruit on the palate along with red licorice and some iodine. It sort of thinned out on the finish, not sure if more bottle age will address that.
Flight 4 - "Cooler Shades" (4 notes)
Alongside beef tataki, pickled onion and wakame
Red
1987 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
96 points
Sublime and restrained, with admirable complexity. Rose petals and licorice on the nose, along with pepper and spun sugar, later giving way to what I can only describe as café caramel. Delicate on the palate, with a touch of lanolin. Slightly clipped on the finish at first, but this smoothed out within an hour. Superb.
Red
1996 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
flawed
A slightly affected bottle, not corked but very forward, muted and thin. Some felt it resolved itself and came into its own later in the evening, but I have to confess that I had moved on by then.
Red
2002 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
98 points
A stunning achievement for the vintage, rich and unctuous. The nose was haunting and concentrated, showing some yeast and petrol along with classic Barolo notes. Very concentrated on the palate, sweet and layered, but with a rustic edge and a touch of balsamic I thought held everything in balance beautifully.
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Red
2005 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
94 points
Very primary, especially when tasted alongside so many older vintages. Not tannic, just compact, if that makes sense. I loved its chewiness. There was a grip to it as well. Stay tuned...
Flight 5 - The Epic Vintages (4 notes)
With cannon of lamb, lamb belly, cauliflower puree and lentils
Red
1970 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino Speciale
97 points
In perfect balance, with a rich, powerful bouquet and fine minerality. Profoundly pure. Dense and weightless simultaneously!
Red
1982 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
96 points
A deep, endless bouquet of plum and graphite. Mouthpuckering power, clean and generous, with a very long finish. Cocoa, leather, spice, even truffles. The most linear of the wines we tasted tonight. Still quite primary but showed really well, softening in the glass throughout the course of the evening.
Red
1985 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
94 points
Quite distinct from the rest of the flight, with a touch of menthol on the nose, almost syrupy, and plenty of white and green pepper. Well defined in the glass, with impressive structure and fine acidity. The finish seemed to lengthen with each sip.
Red
1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
99 points
Though understandably restrained at this relatively young age, this was a profound wine, and the one I found myself returning to time and again. Rich, complex layers of dark, ripe fruit interlaced with muted spice and cut flowers. Tremendous purity and depth. Humbling in its grace. Future Me deems this my WOTN, though the older vintages claimed the prize in the present day.
Flight 6 - Modern Day Classics (3 notes)
With a selection of cheeses
Red
2001 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
96 points
Even against its revered predecessors, this baby showed extremely well, in perfect balance despite being so primary. An expansive wine, intense yet refined. Sweet red fruit and some spice, along with impressive acidity and a massive finish.
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Red
2004 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
98 points
Profound and impressive at this early age, with a slightly herbal nose and tremendous structure and depth on the palate. I sensed a note of petrol on the finish. When the acidity rounds off over time, this could reach perfection.
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Red
2006 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
96 points
This wine is almost certainly better than my score, which probably reflects a bit of palate fatigue and the bottle's primary state after a long and overwhelming evening. A powerful wine. Notes of balsamic, licorice and dried flower petals. Really elegant, despite evident acidity.
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Comments (1)
Closing
I am hoping some others can add pictures too. Kudos to Antonio for providing such a seamless evening of great bottles and greater memories.