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White Truffle Lunch

Otto e Mezzo, Alexandra House, Central, Hong Kong

Tasted October 17, 2014 by Goldstone with 593 views

Introduction

Our always-hedonistic annual White Truffle Dinner got changed at very short notice to a long Friday lunch this year to take advantage of a slot at Otto Y Mezzo and to make sure that Chef Bombana 'book-ended' Jason's first and likely last White Truffle blowout as a Hong Kong resident.

Flight 1 - Aperitif (1 note)

White - Sparkling
2000 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill France, Champagne
91 points
Drank a bit too cold initially. Golden yellow colour. Effervescent and vigorous bead. Lovely nose: toasty, rich and lots of whole-roasted lemons. Palate is super-racy acidity and lemons with some Epsom Salts minerality ad effervescence. Refreshing. Young. Appealing. Less masculine than your usual 'Winston Churchill' - probably a sign of its youth but I doubt it will ever match the masculinity of the 1999.

Flight 2 - Scrambled Egg Yolks with Shaved White Truffle (2 notes)

Actually, it looked more like 'A Pile of White Truffle with a Tiny Bit of Scrambled Egg Hiding Underneath".......sublime and unbeatable (until the pasta arrived).

White
2005 J.M. Boillot Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
96 points
Decanted briefly. Light yellow-green gold colour. Nose is slightly new rubber cycle tyres on entry and not giving much else.....except that it has a resonance and reverberance inside the head just from the nose, which is rare and remarkable and a sign of better things to come when it ages. Palate is slightly oily in an attractive way followed by distinct spice and a fugue on a dozen different types of lemon, and loads more spice....then a massive expansion and explosion in the head with an endless finish....incredibly elegnt and finessed. Beautifully made - linear precision. More petrol elements come out as it warms up in the glass. Stunning. I could drink this all day. It was as good after 3 hours in the glass as it was at the beginning. Amazingly open for a 2005. Thanks, Guy!
White
1991 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
93 points
Decanted for an hour. Burnished gold colour but still very bright and alive. Nose is an intruiging melange of honey and earth....then lemons, sweaty socks and distinct minerality. Palate is immediately beautiful in mouthfeel then moves into mouthcoating butterscotch perfectly balanced by a moderate baked lemons acidity. No oxidisation whatsoever. Burnished. Powerful. Muscular. Characteristic Meursault. Opens a lot in the glass and gets slightly peppery.....distinct fresh-ground white pepper. Very heady and powerful with enormous resonance inside the head on the finish. Thanks, Greg!

Flight 3 - Fresh Papardrelle Pasta with Shaved White Truffle (2 notes)

This was a sublime yet so simple dish.......it totally shut everyone up....literally "silence-creating"......and the wines weren't far off either.

Red
1996 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
95 points
Briefly decanted. Cloudy plum-red damask colour. Nose is a bucketful of lovely damp earth with some cowshit mixed in.......mesmerising. Palate is slightly sweet silage mixed with cow shit - fantastic! Has an immediately billowing reverberance inside the head and an endless resonance on the finale. WOW.....it really gets multidimensional with time in the glass and also develops a sharper acidic cut. Fantastic.....but faded a bit over 2-3 hours. This is "Burgundian rusticity" personified. Impressive because I suspect it was a slightly less than perfect bottle. 95+. Thanks, Greg!
Red
1990 Joseph Drouhin Corton France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
95 points
"Collection Privee de la Famille Drouhin, Sortie de cave en Juin 2014". Briefly opened before serving. Totally transparent, bright and fresh in colour but the shade of dusky autumn strawberries. Nose is high-toned and incredibly refined in comparison to the earthy rusticity of the 1996 Dujac.........violets, sharp wild woodland strawberries, precision, lightness. Palate is light, almost watery but with a great tannic backbone: high-toned, sharp, lean 'essence of strawberry' - like a Spanish water-based perfume. Incredibly light but resonant and reverberant in the head. Endless length. Power without weight. A great counterpoint to the equally thrilling Dujac 1996 drank alongside it. Personally, I preferred this more but the jury was completely split. I may be biased because I brought it.

Flight 4 - Slow-Cooked Venison on a Bed of 'Forest Floor' (1 note)

WOW.......sublime.......impossible to identify the meat as Venison as we know it....... reveries of "my Mum's Roast lamb", "perfect Meatballs" and "Cumberland Sausage from my home town", depending on where you grew up as a kid.

Red
1989 Château La Conseillante France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
95 points
Opened 7 hours in advance and decanted for the last two hours. Fresh, bright, semi-transparent beef-blood colour. Nose is BAM!.....mesmerising perfume and multi-dimensionality of white mushrooms, sous bois and spices...we are in clearly in Bordeaux territory after two stunning Burgandies but this has the perfume to match or trump them both.....very 'whole' and rounded.....relatively light but utterly gorgeous. Palate is powerful perfectly ironed-out balance of powdered but still firm tannins and confit balck and red berry fruits. Powerful. Very fresh and alive. As Guy pointed out, it has a great savoury element. Brilliant....fantastic.... but not quite as good as the 1990 vintage we drank at our inaugural white truffle dinner. But no mistake.....La Conseillante is the king of Bordeaux to enjoy with white truffle....erm, unless you have a 1986 Ch. Mouton Rothschild on hand. Thanks, Jason!

Flight 5 - Fine Italian cheeses (and a perfect Comte) (1 note)

Red
1986 Château Mouton Rothschild France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
96 points
Opened for 7 hours and decanted for another 2 hours. Dark, brooding, semi-transparent black-red colour......it looks like a 2005 and definitely looks much youunger than the preceding 1996 La Conseillante. Nose is GOSH!.......classic, perfectly linear pencil lead and graphite, high-toned, incredibly elegant, lean, sleek, pedigreed......just in a higher league to all the preceding wines. Palate is sublime - austere, aloof, tightly wound, incredibly linear, black fruit blackened by black shoe polish, a blackberry reduced to an atom of super-concentrated essence. Incredible finesse. Angular. Lean-faced. Beautiful in a 'glance but don't stare' way that is a perfect epitome of the vintage. Has hardly yielded at all since we last drank this together in 2009........but just wonderful and everyone's wine of the lunch. Almost 97. Thanks, Jason!
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Closing

Wow.....this one will live in the memory banks!

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