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Dunn Comparative Cabernet Tasting

Chez John Morris

Tasted November 6, 2014 by coremill with 494 views

Introduction

The wines were served in four flights of two. In each flight, we knew there was one bottle of Dunn Napa and one bottle of a cabernet-based wine of a similar age. Identities of the wines were revealed after each flight.

Flight 1 - 2002 (2 notes)

Red
2002 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley USA, California, Napa Valley
88 points
Served single-blind, I guessed the Dunn. An odd juxtaposition of very ripe black fruit and sweet oak with a prominent green streak. The green pyraziney character when combined with the oaky vanilla give the wine a strong minty flavor that a lot of the group found off-putting but that I didn't mind (I'm not very sensitive to pyrazine in Cabernet). Other than the green, this is dense and lush and a bit fat, with some very fine tannin but quite open for business, Surprisingly modern in style for Dunn with sweet fruit, a lot of oak, and not especially structured, but it's not overripe or alcoholic and it works in that idiom.
Red
2002 Château Haut-Brion France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
91 points
Served double-blind. When first poured, this was a bit muted and unexpressive, showing some cedary library character, some tobacco, and reddish fruit. In the mouth it had tons of drying tannic structure with a lot of acidity, and while not hollow through the midpalate it wasn't showing a whole lot. I correctly figured out it was a Bordeaux and the group settled on St Estephe, but we had no idea of the pedigree. ~87-88 pts?

I came back to my glass 90 minutes later at the end of the tasting, and the wine had transformed. It was a little more roasted/smokey/Gravesy now (although it was no longer blind at this point and that could be the power of suggestion), but more importantly the structure, while still present and drying, had relaxed, and the fruit in the midpalate showed wonderful silky depth despite not being especially large-framed. The underlying quality here is evident, but this needs a lot more cellar time to come together.

Flight 2 - 1995 (2 notes)

Red
1995 Renaissance Cabernet Sauvignon Première Cuvée USA, California, Sierra Foothills
90 points
Served double-blind. I guessed the Dunn. Very pretty classic sweet CA cab red fruit nose, with good depth and some nice cedary/meaty/leathery development. Not a big wine but pretty and elegant, turning more minerally on the finish. It's better on its own than next to the more powerful Dunn in this flight, which makes it seem just a tough diffuse and insubstantial in comparison.
Red
1995 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley USA, California, Napa Valley
89 points
Served single-blind. Initially a very prominent oaky/dill character that made me think of Monte Bello, with air turning dark and smokey and graphitey. Quite structured and dense with good power and concentration and lots of tannin and acidity. Likely the better wine in the long run than its flight partner but not as good tonight. Based on the dill, I guessed Monte Bello.

Flight 3 - 1990/1991 (2 notes)

Red
1990 Château Lynch-Bages France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
90 points
Served double-blind, I guessed a 1991 Napa valley floor cab. Intense, powerfully pure casis/raspbery fruit that turns darker and more graphitey and smokier/cigarish with air. The fruit in the mouth is superripe, bordering on overripe, and it's dense and thick and lush and a bit glossy and slick, a giant smooth round ball of smokey black fruit. Low-acid, the concentration and suave tannin character is impressive but it's not that complex and it's oddly a bit short on the finish. This is rather modern and 1990ish in style. I preferred the Dunn.
Red
1991 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley USA, California, Napa Valley
91 points
Served single-blind, I guessed the Dunn. A more mature nose that opens up with air, showing smoke, leather, dark fruit, and a hit of green. This is airier than its flight-mate, and while the tannins are a touch more rustic, there's better acid and while the weight is more elegant there's no lack of concentration and depth, with lovely length. The best of the Dunns tonight for me. Good for drinking now but no rush, and could possibly improve if the tannins resolve a bit more.

Flight 4 - 1983/1981 (2 notes)

Red
1981 Mount Eden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
93 points
Served double-blind, I guessed a 1982 Pauilliac classed growth. Gorgeous nose with sweet, fleshy red fruit, a lot of exotic spice, and some leafy tobacco, adding a nutty quality with air that reminds me of Thai peanut sauce. Mostly mature, the ripe, spicy, black fruit on the palate is soft and rich and expansive with just a touch of grip that gives it a lovely texture. Fabulous and WOTN against some tough competition.
Red
1983 Dunn Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley USA, California, Napa Valley
87 points
Served single-blind, I guessed the Dunn. A little musty and showing some spicy brett character, along with a lot of cedar and not a whole lot of fruit. Good chocolatey black fruit in the mouth, but it's a touch clipped by the brett, which makes the structure poke out. Still, a pretty good effort for a poor vintage 31 years on. Those less brett sensitive than me seemed to like it better. Drink up.
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