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Mixed wines with Munskänkarna, including some Super Tuscans

Stockholm

Tasted December 8, 2014 by Vintomas with 442 views

Introduction

A tasting of various wines arranged by Munskänkarna. The wines had that in common that they were new releases at the Swedish monopoly Systembolaget.

Flight 1 - Champagne (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Veuve Fourny & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
86 points
The nose is mostly fruity with ripe yellow and green apples, citrus, some minerality, a hint of vanilla that indicates oak barrel treatment.
The palate is dry with ripe green apples, some citrus notes, good acidity, some minerality, a hint of grapefruit bitterness and a long aftertaste that is dominated by green apples with some tartness.
Quite decent but falls a bit in-between a firm blanc de blancs style and truly foody Champagne style. 86-87 p.
I wouldn’t have minded if the small bitterness hadn’t been there, and I have been more impressed by other releases from Veuve Fourny, including of this wine.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sparkling
2003 Beaumont des Crayères Champagne Brut Fleur de Prestige France, Champagne
85 points
Rather full yellow colour. Nose of ripe yellow fruit with some vanilla, some nutty aromas, and some notes that reminds me both of mature wine notes and Chenin Blanc (including a hint of arrack/rum). Palate with ripe yellow fruit, yellow apples with some old/winter apple character, some nuts, rather good acidity, a hint of spices, and an apply aftertaste. Rather good body and a creamy character to the palate. The hot and extreme 2003 vintage definitely shows its somewhat odd character here, so there are some other notes here than those that are the most commonly encountered in Champagne. 85 p.
Probably not something for those who’re looking for a mainstream Champagne.

Flight 2 - Various red wines (6 notes)

Red
2011 Château d'Arsac Margaux France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
86 points
Nose with blackcurrants, some dark plums, tar, liquorice and powdered graphite. In the background there are hints of some green and dusty notes and a tiny bit of volatility that doesn’t disturb, but that when take together indicate a cool style and possibly a bit of traditional style (which I don’t think this producer actually goes for). The palate is medium-bodied with blackcurrants, noticeable acidity/sour berry character, rather pronounced tannins, and a tannic aftertaste. Young and cool-styled at present, without the “stuffing” that makes some other Bordeaux wines more easy to digest when young. 86 p.
Can be consumed now by the tannin enthusiast or cellared for a number of years to make the classical mature Bordeaux notes emerge.
Red
2010 Lohsa Maremma Toscana Mandrone di Lohsa Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Maremma Toscana
90 points
Aromatic nose with cherries, blackcurrants, slightly flowery notes, and some sweet liquorice. The palate is medium-bodied(+) with good concentration of fruit, cherries and some blackcurrants, fine acidity and tart berry character with a cranberry or lingonberry bitterness to match, and somewhat prominent tannins. The aftertaste is juicy with cherries and other tart berries, as well as some tannins. Rather young, but drinks reasonably well now, 89 p.
Despite 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and not a single traditionally Italian grape in the bottle, this wine shows definitely shows an Italian character.
Red
2012 Château Lafon-Rochet France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
90 points
Powerful nose with blackcurrants, flowery notes with violets, some spice and a hint of herbaceous notes, chocolate as well as some leather and barnyard aromas that grow stronger with time in the glass. A young and elegant nose, definitely modern-styled with a noticeable but well handled oak component, and unmistakably a Bordeaux. The palate is medium-bodied(+) with good concentration of fruit, fairly ripe blackcurrants, fine acidity, some spice notes, noticeable tannins and a berry-dominated aftertaste with blackcurrants and some tannins. Young, drinks reasonably well now, definitely has potential for development, 90+ p.
A quite pleasant Bordeaux in a modern style.
Red
2011 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Estate USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains
90 points
Nose with ripe dark plums together with blackcurrants and some blackberries, chocolate, hints of vanilla, and some barnyard aromas. A pleasant nose but with a rather prominent oak character (more than I usually find in Ridge wines). The palate is medium-bodided(+) with good concentration of fruit and pronounced blackcurrant notes, spice, rather noticeable tannins, and an aftertaste with blackcurrants and some oak impression. The palate is definitely more classically Ridge-styled than the nose. Rather young, drinks reasonably well now, but can develop and is likely to integrate the oak note better with some time in the cellar. 90(+) p.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2012 Domaine Garon Côte-Rôtie Les Triotes France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
91 points
The nose is lovely and very typical and classical Northern Rhône & Côte-Rôte with blackberries, cloves, freshly ground pepper and other spices, as well as violets and some mint. The palate is medium bodied+ and is berry-dominated with a good concentration of tart blackberries, pepper, cloves and other spices, rather prominent tannins that are balanced by the fresh acidity, and with a spicy aftertaste that also include the tart blackberries. Rather young, with a good balance and freshness, 91 p.

Could definitely be cellared, but I have a feeling that this wine shows itself from its best side already as young.
Red
2012 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
90 points
A berry-dominated nose with red currants, ripe strawberries, spices, slightly flowery and with just a faint touch of a volatile note that surely is the beginning of the characteristic notes that often can be felt in a Châteauneuf with some maturity. The palate is medium bodied+ and berry-dominated with red currants, some ripe forest raspberries and cherries, good concentration of fruit, spices, a very light minty note and a touch of alcoholic fire, and somewhat noticeably tannins that remain in the aftertaste together with the spices. Although this wine shows its alcohol a tiny bit, the balance is definitely fine for a Châteauneuf-du-Pape and I would put it on the well-polished side among its peers. Drinkable now but can be cellared. 90 p.

Flight 3 - Super Tuscans (4 notes)

Red
2012 Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto Toscana IGT Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
90 points
Ripe dark berry notes with blackcurrants, dark plums, some cherries, liquorice, slightly flowery notes with violets, and some chocolate and oak.
The palate is medium bodied+, shows berry-dominated notes with blackcurrants and dark cherries, noticeable acidity, spices with some pepper and liquorice, medium tannins of a polished character and rather well embedded. Well-polished, rather young, but with good approachability already, 90(+) p.

The nose reminded me rather much of a modern Saint-Émilion, but with less prominent oak than the 2012 Le Serre Nuove and pleasantly enough without noticeable alcoholic notes. The palate is more Italian, though, and includes tart cherry notes.
Red
2012 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri
89 points
Definitely a dark and compact colour. Nose with dark plums, some blackcurrants, fruitcake, some liquorice, some leather, spices, rather noticeable oak with coffee and chocoloate. The palate is medium bodied+ with dark plums, dark cherries, some alcoholic feeling, spice notes with pepper, some tannins that are reasonably well embedded, and some oak. Rather young, drinks rather well now, but a highly modern wine that definitely is not for those that are sensitive to oak barrel notes in wines. 89 p.
Red
2011 Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Sassicaia
93 points
A big, warm nose with dark plums and blackcurrants, spices, rather prominent oak notes with chocolate and coffee. Rather full-bodied palate with tart blackcurrants, some blackberries, liquorice, some pepper, noticeable tannins that however are freshened up by tart berries, and an aftertaste with tart blackcurrants and some tannins. Definitely a polished palate, young, has potential and should be allowed time in the cellar, 93+ p.

The nose shows a clear Bordeaux blend character, but rather than a "Cabernet nose" it’s a bit more right bank-style, i.e. indicates Merlot (which is not part of the Sassicaia blend). On the palate, the Cabernet dominance is more obvious.
Red
2011 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia Italy, Tuscany, Bolgheri, Bolgheri Superiore
94 points
Noticeably darker in colour than the 2011 Sassicaia and a bit more compact. A big, powerful and berry-dominated nose with dark plums, blackcurrants, salty liquorice, tar, and noticeable oak with chocolate and coffee. Definitely full-bodied with a massive concentration of berries, mixed dark berries including blackcurrants and blackberries, good acidity, liquorice, noticeable pepper notes, powerful tannins that are made somewhat fresher mid-palate by the acidity, but that really linger on. Other than the tannins, the aftertaste is dominated by dark berries, liquorice and pepper. This wine is young, very modern, and distinctly massive, 94(+) p.

Very similar to a high-end, modern Saint-Émilion in both nose and palate. Although this wine is also highly modern, in my opinion it absorbs its oak treatment better than its little brother 2012 Le Serre Nuove. It is at least half a size bigger than Sassicaia, and actually has a tougher aftertaste.
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Flight 4 - Fortified wines (2 notes)

White - Fortified
N.V. Williams & Humbert Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Dos Cortados Very Old Dry Palo Cortado Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
90 points
Rather light amber colour. Sweetish nose with orange zest, dried yellow fruits ("fruit candy-style"), walnuts, nut candy, some wax/honeycomb, and some flowery notes. Noticeably developed and oxidative notes, but with fine fruitiness and balance. Dry palate, good concentration with orange zest, dried yellow fruits, some walnuts, some chalky mineral notes, good acidity, some spice, viscous palate, and a slightly fiery note. 90 p?
Red - Fortified
2002 Dow Porto Vintage Quinta do Bomfim Portugal, Douro, Porto
89 points
Dark red, rather compact colour. Somewhat developed nose with cherries and mixed ripe red and dark berries, some liquorice, prunes and some raisins, and a light flowery note with violets. A typical Port nose. Sweet palate, medium+ concentration with dark cherries, prunes, some blackberries, some raisins, rather noticeable spice notes with some pepper, and some tannins. Rather ready in development but with some tannic bite left, 89 p.

This "Quinta" is a quite pleasant Port in a reasonably mature phase, but it hasn’t quite the polish of "real vintage Port" from the best vintages.
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