Carlisle 2014s from the barrel - Something to be excited about
Russian River Valley
Tasted December 13, 2015 by wilypod with 479 views
Introduction
Having purchased Carlisle and Bedrock Zinfandel for a few years I decided to make both wineries an object of Pilgrimage on a family visit to California. After some correspondence, Mike Officer and his winemaker Jay Maddox (sp?) graciously hosted a review of 2014 from the barrel and, even more crucially, helped me navigate from the RRV through the Bay area after dark to reach the central Coast later that evening.
Flight 1 (12 notes)
Red
2014 Carlisle Zinfandel Old Vines
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Lots of RRV Zin in this beautiful blend of lots from Saitone, Martinelli and one other vineyard. Smooth and spicy, with dark cranberries, cocoa, and mintiness. The equal of some of the more celebrated single vineyard Carlisle releases from 2012. 90-92
Red
2014 Carlisle Zinfandel Saitone Ranch
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
If forced to choose a favorite of the 2014 Carlisle line up it would be a toss up between this and the Rosella's Syrah. OK, I concede the Saitone is my favorite.
Since one is tasting from the barrel, these scores may be hyped by the sheer undoctored state of the wines and their immensely appealing fruit. There is no telling what the wines will be after bottling and release. Still this particular Zinfandel stood out for its evocative and multi-textured nose and palate.
Full of ripe forest fruit, an intense Italian amarena cherry character (typical of Taurasi), cranberries, bayleaf, pomegranate, all gently integrated with oak. A fabulously complex Zinfandel with only 8% other teinturier varieties (Alicante Bouschet, PS, etc). Deep and dark on the palate like a Napa Hillside Cab with subtle herbal resins, and a long, perfectly tannic finish. You get the idea. 94-97.
Red
2014 Carlisle Zinfandel Carlisle Vineyard
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
87% Zin and 13% of 39 other varieties. Richly scented with lively Italian scents of Amarena Cherries (like Morello and other sour cherries) and gobs of brooding Pomegranate. The tannins are full and fleshy, and build sensuality rather than austerity. 92-93.
Red
2014 Carlisle Zinfandel Bedrock Vineyard
USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
90% Zin with 10% mixed varieties. This is a fatter, more opulent wine than Bedrock's own 2014 Heritage Vineyard bottling, due to the higher Zin content. Very approachable and typical of the 2014 Zins in Sonoma (excluding Dry Creek - have not tasted those yet), that is, RRV and cooler sites. The 2014s have soaring aromatics, plush surfaces, and the acid and tannin to defy time. The fruit, however, is already so attractive in these wines, that one will want to consume a portion in the first year after release. So try for several bottles of each. This Bedrock is pure elegance, with a balance of cassis, black raspberry and the savory, and with Bordeaux-like tannins. 92-93
Red
2014 Carlisle Zinfandel Montafi Ranch
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
87 % Zin and 13 % ten other varieties. Sweet cranberry and a core of black raspberry brambled Zin. Delicate oak. Another 2014 dark fruited RRV Zin in between the classy elegance of Carlisle Vineyard and the brooding power of Saitone.
Red
2014 Carlisle Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard
USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
Of all the 2014s, the most primary, un-evolved. One senses mineral and power, in this almost wholly Zinfandel wine. Instead of the suave, dark savory fruit of RRV, this is muscular, even beefy, with "rare steak" overtones and blood orange. This Zin is the least like the others in this tasting, and the earthiest. The tannins need time. 90-93
Red
2014 Carlisle Zinfandel Pagani Ranch Sonoma Valley
USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Valley
90 % Zinfandel, with 10% teinturier varieties. If not as deeply scented as the Carlisle vineyard, it seems cut of the same cloth, with a bit more fruity brightness. The palate is caressing, delicious, and this one might be an earlier drinker than other 2014s. 91-93
Red
2014 Carlisle Zinfandel Papera Ranch
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Fascinating to compare with the Bedrock (a nearby vineyard) and the Monte Rosso, also a mere stone's throw away (or perhaps a fantastic Javelin toss). This is very much a wine of Napa valley decadent fruit and power, with the opulence to the fore now. Blackberry, black raspberry, cassis, dark chocolate. Very complete, perhaps a picky critic would wish for more herbal complexity, which may eventually emerge from this wine's depths. 91-93
Red
2014 Carlisle Two Acres
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
RRV Mourvedre? (Yep, 75%). Crushed grapes, violets, roses, Beaujolais youthfulness, and some black pepper, forest floor and wet stone. 10 % Syrah, 6% Petite Sirah, 4% carignane, 3 % Peloursin, and 2 % Alicant Bouschet. Unobtrusive tannin. More roses at the end.
I can't remember if these were co-fermeneted or blended after fermentation but it is utterly delicious. One wishes there were two Mike Officers, one just for all the Zins and another to focus on Rhones. 91-94.
Red
2014 Carlisle Syrah Rosella's Vineyard
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands
Feminine and one to break your heart with its sheer beauty. A dozen fragrant roses overwhelm the mild savory aspects underneath. Should become a classic. Already in beautiful balance and should hold for years. A perfect Syrah for those not convinced by the variety. 93-96.
Red
2014 Carlisle Syrah Papa's Block
USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
Big, brawny and feral, 25% whole cluster, cool climate RRV Syrah. Tannin is ample but not out of whack, in fact the wine ends with an aesthetic quality that is the antithesis of its gangbusters opening act. 90-93.
Red
2014 Carlisle Petite Sirah Palisades Vineyard
USA, California, Napa Valley
Wonderful mouth coating tannins, lots of blue fruit but no IHOP syrup at all. A more rewarding wine than PS this good is hard to imagine: luscious aromatics and fruit, mid palate darker chocolate notes with extraordinary texture and body, and sweet length. 92-94.
Closing
Carlisle sets the bar very high for the industry. The wines are fabulous across the board, something Carlisle fans already know. The 2014 wines are supple, fragrant, food friendly, balanced slightly ripe of center, and can age gracefully. The sheer beauty of the fruit is captured and may tempt some fans to drink them early. They are indeed so rewarding early that perhaps it will be a minority who wait for "peak maturity."
The 2014s seem on pace to be approachable in their youth, like some of the 2012s, but with the greater intensity and structure of the 2013s. So they also should defy time for those with the patience and cellar space. I find the 2014 vintage to be both ripe and structured, with a larger proportion of the flavors and aromas coming from the savory herbal side than usual. It is a felicitous combination of California fruit opulence, just enough restrained by drought to lose candied-ness, Rhone garrigue, and -- in some cases -- supple Premier Cru Bordeaux textures. A very exciting vintage.
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