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UGC Bordeaux Tasting - 2013 Vintage

Bentley Reserve, SF

Tasted January 30, 2016 by RajivAyyangar with 625 views

Introduction

Full note with diagram of floor layout: https://www.evernote.com/l/ABb2_TvhZd1Jg7NXJf44fs7SkPZbglYswK8

Not the greatest tasting for me- I didn't have a clear impression of a lot of the wines, and it was a bit chaotic. Palate wise I was initially concerned I was getting over a cold, but the Pessac whites and the Lynch Bages reassured me that when a wine was good, I could taste it in detail. I tried to avoid scoring wines when I was doubtful I had a fair impression.

However I was excited to hone in on the celery soda / key lime pie note in the Pessac whites! I felt like I had a minor epiphany there. Bdx Blanc seems to be all about that balance of greenness, tensile acidity, minerality, and opulence from the elevated alcohol and oak.

Wines I scored around 9:
Pessac Whites:
-Dom. de Chevalier
-Pape Clement

Pauillac:
-Lynch Bages
-Pichon Baron

St. Emilion:
-Canon

Wines I scored between 8.5-9:
Pessac Whites:
-de Fieuzal
-Carbonnieux
-Olivier
-Smith Haut Lafitte

Margaux:
-Cantenac Brown

St. Julien:
-Branaire-Ducru
-Gruaud-Larose
-Leoville Poyferre

Sauternes:
-Lafaurie-Peyraguey
-de Fargues

Wines I scored around 8.5:
Pessac Whites:
-Malartic-Lagraviere

St. Estephe:
-Lafon-Rochet

St. Julien
-Lagrange
-Leoville Barton

Margaux:
-Brane-Cantenac
-Prieure-Lichine
-Rauzan-Segla

Sauternes:
-Suduiraut
-Doisy-Daene

Flight 1 - Graves/Pessac (11 notes)

This was the most exciting grouping for me - I finally got a good scent-impression of what oaked sauvignon blanc tastes like. In all the major wines I tasted a note best described as celery soda, grass with cream soda, or key lime pie.

White
2013 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
88 points
Slightly reductive. Grassy celery soda (oaked sauv blanc nose). Elevated alcohol with high acid. Very nice! Between 8.5 and 9.
White
2013 Château Pape Clément Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
90 points
Beautiful and creamier than the Smith Haut Lafitte. Grapefruit and grass plus celery soda and key lime pie. Slight impression of tannins - maybe from oak? Well-contained alcohol at 13.5%
18 months elevage in 60% new oak. They do lots of battonage - daily for the first week or so.
White
2013 Château Olivier Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
88 points
Strong lime peel. Key lime pie. Creamy but more aggressive acid than the Pape clement. 40% new oak.
Red
2013 Château Olivier France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Very open. Good fruit and significant oak. Significant Merlot presence on the nose. Palate is fleshy and soft. Medium tannins.
White
2013 Château Carbonnieux Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
88 points
Absolutely classic. Celery soda and grass. Key lime pie. Fresh acidity, in the medium-plus to high range.
30% semillon, 70% sauv blanc. 10 months in 1/3 new oak. They mostly use new oak on the semillon, and 2nd/3rd use barrels on the sauv blanc. 85-90
White
2013 Château de Fieuzal Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
88 points
Green grass / celery soda / key lime pie (oaked sauv blanc) is in the background. Very honeyed (48% semillon!) with slight cream. Quite developed for 2013 (18 months elevate, 40% new oak, some in concrete eggs, some in 400L acacia barrels. Very distinctive. Score: between 8.5 and 9. Julia Harding thought this might have some botrytis (honey) but I asked and the rep was emphatic that they never have botrytis. Maybe it's the semillon?
White
2013 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
91 points
Intense and captivating nose. Tropical yet tensile. The grassy celery soda / key lime pie / oaked sauv blanc note is present as well. Moderate alcohol (I guessed 13.5% - it’s 13%). The 2011 was a bit warmer (14%). Acidity is long, lingering, and brings lots of light to the palate. 18 months in 40% new oak. This was an above-average year for whites in Pessac. Score: Around 9.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2013 Château Malartic-Lagravière Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
84 points
Nice grassy cream soda nose but less en point in fruit ripeness than the other 2013’s.
White
2013 Château de France Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
Lean and mean with slight cream. 40% new oak - blind I’d guess around 20%.
White
2013 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
A bit acrid. Slight note of overripe peach but without tropical support. Less oak influence than its compatriots.
White
2013 Château Latour-Martillac Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
83 points
Leaner and more fresh-cut grass pyrazines than the others. Between 8 and 8.5

Flight 2 - St. Emilion (4 notes)

Overall, these were lighter and thinner than the 2011’s. Noticeably absent was the chocolate-covered blackcurrant note from the merlot-dominant wines. Canon still had some nice things going on.

Red
2013 Château La Dominique France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Unripe, dirty fruit. Petrichor. Green - weedy and stemmy.
Red
2013 Château Troplong Mondot France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Surprisingly open with some ripe preserved strawberry notes
Red
2013 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
Open. Ripe. Good quality fruit but still on the underripe side.
Red
2013 Château Canon France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
90 points
Cab franc influenced on the nose (softer and greener) but rich and powerful with bright acidity on the palate

Flight 3 - Pomerol (5 notes)

Overall these were indistinguishable from the St. Emilions. The chocolate-covered blackcurrant note was absent.

Red
2013 Château La Pointe France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Medium ruby, quite bright with a bit of red at the rim. Rustic. Good concentration and structure but missing a bit of fruit.
Red
2013 Château Gazin Pomerol France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Underripe. There’s a softness to the fruit. Red plum. Harsh tannins.
Red
2013 Château Beauregard France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Well-put-together but with pronounced bell pepper (ripe, fresh bell pepper).
Red
2013 Château Le Bon Pasteur France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Good concentration but a bit burnt on the nose. Reductive right now. Warm animal stink to it - in a good way.
Red
2013 Château Clinet France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Red fruited. Harsh, extremely bitter tannins. Bitter cranberry on the finish.

Flight 4 - St. Estephe (2 notes)

Red
2013 Château Ormes de Pez France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Well made, with notes of cherry and blackcurrant. Not bad for ’13.
Red
2013 Château Lafon-Rochet France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
86 points
Seems like a perfectly standard Left Bank. The fruit isn’t super expressive but it’s ready to drink, with well-rounded tannins and a very ripe stewed bell pepper herbaceousness.

Flight 5 - Pauillac (7 notes)

Red
2013 Château Lynch-Bages France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
90 points
Classic pauillac. All the elements are there - animal fur, hints of new oak, slight ripe pyrazines, blackcurrant/cassis, cedar.
Red
2013 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
90 points
Classic cedar on the nose. A bit pyrazine-y but great fruit at the same time. Cassis. 82% cab. Very Pauillac in balance - structured with the ripeness to balance it.
Red
2013 Château Grand-Puy Ducasse France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Nice animal stink to the nose but harsh and acidic palate with low fruit.
Red
2013 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Green. A bit thin.
Red
2013 Château Lynch-Moussas France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Green underripe peppers tending towards green menthol. Heavily toasted oak. Burnt popcorn. I’m not a fan.
Red
2013 Château Clerc Milon France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Green and thin.
Red
2013 Château d'Armailhac France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Softer than Cleric Milon. Open and flavorful but light. Margaux-like. The winemaker said d’Armailhac does tend to be more “feminine” in the context of Pauillac.

Flight 6 - St. Julien (11 notes)

Relatively strong quality across the board, especially given the vintage. There was some tannin silkiness at play too.

Red
2013 Château Léoville Barton France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
85 points
Well made. With some judicious oak toasty cinnamon. But the core of fruit is missing
Red
2013 Château Langoa Barton France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Similar to Leoville but more floral. Missing some muscle but pretty. Silky tannins.
Red
2008 Château Léoville Poyferré France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
88 points
A nice contrast for this tasting - quite open! Savory fur-forward nose. Warm and pleasantly animal. Soft, stewed peppers. Slight bruised strawberry. Good fruit but missing a deep core of cassis. Palate is ready to go. Between 8.5 and 9.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2013 Château Gruaud Larose France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
88 points
Very good. Well integrated aromatics. A bit tight but a satisfying palate. A great picture of 2013. Ripe but light with good firm but chewy tannins. Between 8.5 and 9.
Red
2013 Château Lagrange (St. Julien) France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
85 points
Satisfying acidity but the fruit quality isn't there.
Red
2013 Château Talbot France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Underripe nose. Underripe fruit. Suspiciously sweet on the palate. RS?
Red
2013 Château Beychevelle France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Green, underripe. Merlot character is prominent - a softer, fleshier, plummier type of fruit. 36% Merlot. Good structure.
Red
2014 Château Beaumont France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
80 points
(not St. Julien but included here because it’s the same winemaker as Beychevelle). Not great. Underripe fruit.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2013 Château Branaire-Ducru France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
88 points
Very nice and balanced. Similar to Gruaud Larose. There’s a nice silkiness to the tannins (it’s a St. Julien, so maybe I’m predisposed to say this). Between 8.5-9.
Red
2013 Château Saint-Pierre France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Burnt popcorn. Good structure but too toasted for me. Problems with yeast/malo, perhaps?
Red
2013 Château Gloria France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
83 points
A lighter wine. Thin, but with decent fruit. A bit wan, overall. 8-8.5

Flight 7 - Margaux (10 notes)

Some of the wines were classically floral/aromatic, but overall the quality was really spotty.

Red
2013 Château Lascombes France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Burnt popcorn nose. Over toasted. Nevertheless, a nice palate with some sweet reddish fruit.
Red
2013 Château Rauzan-Ségla France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
85 points
Aromatic nose with a bruised strawberry note. But a bit light and underripe on the palate. 85.
Red
2013 Château Prieuré-Lichine France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
85 points
Floral brettanomyces and bruised strawberry (is this a possible marker for Margaux?). Very nice and feminine. Around 8.5
Red
2013 Château Kirwan France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
flawed
Slightly corked.
Red
2013 Château Giscours France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
80 points
Earthy, with underripe dark green bell peppers. Around 8.
Red
2013 Château du Tertre France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Aromatic but all the aromas are underripe. Green stems, underripe cherry, cornflakes.
Red
2013 Château Malescot St. Exupéry France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
80 points
Good structure but weirdly underripe, with a blueish green note. Underripe blueberry, stemmy. Around 8.
Red
2013 Château Brane-Cantenac France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
86 points
Pyrazine-y notes of well-stewed bell peppers, olive, and salvadorean tamales, with some ripe dark fruit as well. Around 8.5
Red
2013 Château Cantenac Brown France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
88 points
Very interesting perfumed sandalwood floral note. I like this a lot! The sandalwood-y oak reminds me of grand old CA wines, especially the Kathleen Kennedy Syrah. Between 8.5 and 9.
Red
2013 Château d'Angludet France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Stinky and reductive. Over-ridden by brettanomyces.

Flight 8 - Sauternes (5 notes)

I think I prefer my Sauternes one of two ways: aged to the point where the savory character is more prominent, or with much stronger acid than most of these display.

White - Sweet/Dessert
2013 Château Suduiraut France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
85 points
Well-balanced nose (fruit, botrytis, savory/waxy/non-fruit notes). Not super aromatic. Lighter on the palate than other Sauternes. 8.5.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2013 Château Doisy-Daëne France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
85 points
Nice saffron (botrytis) on the nose. Palate is a bit sweet for me - I could use more acid. 8.5.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2013 Château de Fargues France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
88 points
Good! Some savory complexity here, with good acid and an impression of crushed stones. A slight burnt toast note which, in this wine, I like. Between 8.5 and 9.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2013 Château Guiraud France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
80 points
Dried pineapple! Sweet and heavy. Around 8 for me. Could use more acid.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2013 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
88 points
Ripe with good acid. Nice savory toast notes. 8.5-9.
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