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James Suckling - Great Wines of Italy
SF
Tasted February 28, 2016 by RajivAyyangar with 986 views
Introduction
Crowded tasting, but there was plenty of time to recover between bursts. I had to take frequent breaks and eat crackers / drink water. I feel like I developed a pretty good picture of Brunello in this tasting - it's less structured than Piedmont Nebbiolo, and also heftier in body. Fruit tends towards dark cherry vs. Chianti's red cherry, cranberry.
Flight 1 - Piedmont (12 notes)
Red
2008 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Riserva
93 points
Cured meat. Dark dried cherry. Light-bodied with high alcohol, high acid, and awesomely chewy high tannins. Dry and wet leaves. Dried flowers. Phenomenal. 9-9.5.
Red
2010 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Liste
92 points
Savory red fruit. Killer chewy tannins. Less aromatic than the ’08. 9-9.5
Red
2010 Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Barolo Cannubi
91 points
A bit fleshier than the previous two. Red-fruited. Still amazing but I actually prefer the more austere Riserva and Liste. Around 9.
Red
2011 Pio Cesare Barbaresco
88 points
Pretty and ripe but structured. Shows development. Red dried cherry. 14.5%
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Comment
Red
2011 Pio Cesare Barolo
91 points
Really good. high alc and chewy tannic structure. Riper than the Borgognos but still traditionalist. More brett savory notes than the Barbaresco.
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Comment
Red
2011 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato
88 points
(single vineyard) Overt sawdusty clove on the finish. Structured and ripe but bitter. 88.
Red
2010 Roberto Voerzio Barbera d'Alba Riserva Vigneto Pozzo dell'Annunziata
90 points
Grippy. Well integrated oak. A bit acid deficient. Precision ripeness.
Red
2010 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Torriglione
93 points
Dark dried fruit, liquorice, slight sweetness from barely-noticeable oak. Slightly more body than the Borgogno’s, with high chewy tannins and high acid. The oak is very light - partial new / 2nd-3rd use barrels - it frames the fruit well. I really love this. Within the style of modern Barolo, I'm a big fan.
Red
2009 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Sarmassa
91 points
A bit apple-y. Seems surprisingly developed. Chewy structure and savory red fruit.
Red
2010 Parusso Barolo Bussia
83 points
Fleshy and sweet, with a bitter finish and only medium/medium plus tannins.
Red
White - Sparkling
2011 Parusso Metodo Classico Brut
80 points
Blanc de noirs - Nebbiolo sparkling wine! Weirdly acid-deficient, though fairly dry-ish.
Flight 2 - Tuscany (23 notes)
Red
2013 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Volte Toscana IGT
88 points
Warm savory brett. Bordeaux-like nose with medium acid and medium tannins (strong impression of cocoa powder in the tannins). Polished, plush, and savory.
Red
2013 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Le Serre Nuove
90 points
Hints of chocolate-covered cassis (merlot-type or really ripe cabernet fruit). Savory bell pepper pyrazines. Spicy brett melded with some sweet new oak. In the mouth this has a bit more grip than the Le Volte - plush with medium tannins and a similar cocoa powder finish. Fruit isn’t really the point of this, but it’s definitely a supporting character. Really nice.
Red
2012 Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia
93 points
Even more savory stewed bell pepper pyrazines than the previous two. There’s a small but bright pinprick core of pure cabernet cassis, framed by a savory combination of brett and new oak. Powerful and still unintegrated. The fruit is strong in this one - cabernet blackcurrant. The cocoa-powder tannins are medium plus and sort of stick out to me - they’re sweetish, and oak-influenced. The aromatics are super complex and evolving - spices, mushroom, cassis, cocoa, orange peel, dog fur. Elevated alcohol, acid, and tannins.
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Comment
Red
2012 Bibi Graetz Testamatta Toscana IGT
Can't score. Too young. Oxidative style. Red fruited and austere. Tannic and high acid. Slightly herbal.
Overall the Bibi Graetz wines were light, super structured to the point of austerity, had little ot no Brett, and were quite oxidative (bruised apple skins).
Overall the Bibi Graetz wines were light, super structured to the point of austerity, had little ot no Brett, and were quite oxidative (bruised apple skins).
Red
2010 Bibi Graetz Colore Toscana IGT
The best 10 barrels of the Testamatta. Complex red fruit. Light and tannic. Less dominated by bruised apple than the others. Can’t score - too young and austere.
Overall the Bibi Graetz wines were light, super structured to the point of austerity, had little to no Brett, and were quite oxidative (bruised apple skins).
Overall the Bibi Graetz wines were light, super structured to the point of austerity, had little to no Brett, and were quite oxidative (bruised apple skins).
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Comment
Red
2012 Bibi Graetz Soffocone di Vincigliata Toscana IGT
Light. High tannins. High acid. Thin and a bit oxidative for me. I think the fruit may be there. Can’t score - too young and austere.
Overall the Bibi Graetz wines were light, super structured to the point of austerity, had little to no Brett, and were quite oxidative (bruised apple skins).
Overall the Bibi Graetz wines were light, super structured to the point of austerity, had little to no Brett, and were quite oxidative (bruised apple skins).
Red
2011 Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto di Campolungo
84 points
Green, dark-fruited. Quite structured but a bit lacking in fruit.
Note on the three Lamole’s: All of these were a bit thin on the fruit and simple on the mid-palate.
Note on the three Lamole’s: All of these were a bit thin on the fruit and simple on the mid-palate.
Red
2010 Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico Riserva
86 points
Closed and tannic. To manage the tannins they ferment to 6% away from the skins (keeping them in a refrigerator) then add back the skins to complete fermentation.
Note on the three Lamole’s: All of these were a bit thin on the fruit and simple on the mid-palate.
Note on the three Lamole’s: All of these were a bit thin on the fruit and simple on the mid-palate.
Red
2012 Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico
85 points
Slight dark fruit (10% cab, 10% merlot). Structured. I don’t really understand this style of Chianti. Why add Bdx varieties to your beautiful red-fruited Sangio?
Note on the three Lamole’s: All of these were a bit thin on the fruit and simple on the mid-palate.
Note on the three Lamole’s: All of these were a bit thin on the fruit and simple on the mid-palate.
Red
Red
2013 Vignamaggio Chianti Classico Riserva Gherardino
87 points
Darker fruit (some merlot here). A bit closed down but well-structured.
Red
2012 Vignamaggio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Castello di Monna Lisa
88 points
Richer midpalate, but still structured.
Red
2011 Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino
88 points
Slightly burnt toast. Dark and soft and open for brunello.
Red
2010 Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino Campo del Drago
89 points
Significant development and more structure. High altitude. High acid.
Red
2011 Castiglion del Bosco Prima Pietra Toscana IGT
90 points
Rich and very Bordeaux. Ripe green peppers. Bright acid. Sweet savory tobacco.
Red
2011 La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino
88 points
Savory brett. Hint of burnt toast. Dark fruited - black cherry, dried. Slightly weightier and fleshier than the Barolos. Structured with faint sweetness from a small percentage of new oak.
Red
2010 La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino
91 points
This was an epic year. Rich shades of dark cherry. Structured and aromatically well integrated. Brett is present but not sticking out.
Red
2010 La Rasina Brunello di Montalcino Il Divasco Riserva
89 points
A bit tighter - more tannic and slightly more overt oak than the regular 2010 BdM. Good but a bit closed. Dark dried cherry fruit.
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Comments (2)
Red
2011 Pietranera Brunello di Montalcino
88 points
Complex earthy slight red cranberries. Also dark dried cherries. VA. Development. Tastes drier- all neutral slavonian big casks.
Red
2010 Pietranera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
90 points
More complex development. I like it. Forest leaves, clove. M body. Neutral slavonian casks. M+ tannins. M+. Alcohol. M+ acid.
Red
2010 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino
86 points
Sangiovese. Dark fruit. Herbal. Savory. Fleshy and a bit sweet with high acid and soft tannins Med plus.
3 people found this helpful
Comment
Red
2010 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano
88 points
Fleshy and sweet for BdM but has good acid.
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Comment
Red
1997 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano
92 points
Sweet mushroom tamari. Holy development. Liquor ice. Light and intense and still structured with Med plus tannins rounded.
Flight 3 - Other Regions and Styles (12 notes)
White - Sparkling
2011 Giuseppe Contratto Millesimato Extra Brut
85 points
100% pinot. briochey, yellow apples, some dark plum, expansive mousse, big bubbles. I don’t get much complexity but the acid is refreshing.
White
2014 Cantina Tramin Pinot Grigio Unterebner
88 points
Light but distinct terpenic florals, high acid and light-plus butterness. Really nice.
White
2014 Cantina Tramin Alto Adige - Südtirol Stoan
87 points
Blend of chardonnay, gewurz, and others - quite floral (terpenic) with more stone/orchard fruit. Elevated acid and a clean finish - very little phenolic bitterness.
White
2014 Cantina Tramin Gewürztraminer Alto Adige - Südtirol Nussbaumer
90 points
Lovely fresh rose petals on the nose, and a hint of muscat-like white pepper and orange oil (cool climate gewurz?). None of the showy, syrupy-sweet lychee that you get in Alsace. Dry with light bitterness and decent acid (medium). Alcohol seems well under control.
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Comment
White
2013 Kellerei Nals-Margreid Pinot Bianco Alto Adige - Südtirol Sirmian
88 points
Stony with strong acid. Less aromatic than the Pinot Grigio, but there are some nice stone-fruit suggestions.
White
2013 Kellerei Nals-Margreid Pinot Grigio Punggl
88 points
Classic aromas, quite aromatic with stone fruit. Med + acid. Very nice!
Red
Red
2012 Tenuta Vitalonga Umbria Terra di Confine
85 points
Dark fruit with some mushroom and significant brett.
Red
Red
2014 Cantina Zaccagnini Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Il Vino dal Tralcetto
85 points
Sweet and savory, juicy and sort of a prototypical Italian red wine. Has some fruit on this! Moderate tannins, elevated acid.
Red
2010 Cantina Zaccagnini Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Terre di Casauria Riserva San Clemente
88 points
Darker, with savory brett and some anise character. Moderate tannins, elevated acid.
Red
2011 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
85 points
Low aromatics on the nose. Slight cherry syrup, cherry juice, currant juice. In the mouth, high alcohol, elevated acid, elevated tannins. Clean, juicy with a good dose of new oak. I don’t get overt raisination but the fruit is super duper ripe. I was surprised by how non-aromatic this is (maybe needs time), and how clean it is (not a lot of earth or complexity here).