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2013 H. Boillot & PYCM White Burgundy Horizontal
Nico Osteria
Tasted April 4, 2016 by Nanda with 410 views
Introduction
Adrian's turn to host the rotating dinner series offered a fantastic peak into two of my favorite White Burgundy producers. The two producer's wines lived up to high expectations ... and for my money, were quite representative of their respective terroir. I will continue to by H. Boillot and PYCM without hesitation.
Always a testament to the success of a tasting (at least for the wine-geek factor), I caught myself thinking about the tasting, the wines and their terroirs on multiple occasions days after the dinner! Thanks Adrian!!
Flight 1 - Starter Red! (1 note)
Red
2013 Domaine Bertheau (Pierre et François) Bourgogne
87 points
Very light ruby, translucent. Medium nose has attractive earth tones, dried flowers and red cherry. This is very easy drinking and light weight. Pleasant and clean cherry fruit and more earth tones. Juicy acids. Honest and transparent.
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Flight 2 - Puligny (2 notes)
White
2013 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles
94 points
Wow - layered and delicious nose. Aromas of rich orchard fruit, minerality, flintiness, with pronounced creamy, toasty, smoky oak impact. While the oak is pronounced it is very well married and integrated with fruit. In the mouth this is full bodied and round with good precise cut. The fruit really dances on a spine of acidity. Toast is once again there but well integrated. Long and delicious. One of my favorites of the horizontal.
White
2013 Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
91 points
More restrained and simple relative to the Pucelles tasted side-by-side. Medium nose of non-distinct white fruits and minerals with light oak notes of smoke and toast. The palate is showing more depth and flash than the nose. Still not as profound as the Pucelles side by side, but pleasurable in its own right with forward, rich fruit and some steely minerality. Tangy acids hold it all together and leave a precise impression.
Flight 3 - Meursault Part One (2 notes)
White
2013 Domaine Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
92 points
Clearly stepping into Meursault after the more nuanced Pulignys. The nose here is showing it's youth with less evolution and minimum delineation. Clearly has stuffing but not giving much more than round, 'meaty' white fruit and with some toasty oak. On the palate there is a sweetness to the white fruit and richness in it's depth/texture. A sneaky burst of minerality comes out of nowhere on the back end. Strong potential with little nuance today.
White
2013 Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Poruzots
90 points
Similar to the Genevrieres, the nose here is large scaled but non-delineated and brutish today. It does have a distinct minty note though, which was pleasing, on top of the broad notions of rich orchard fruit, toast and minerals. On the palate this full bodied and powerful with round, rich and dense fruit. The acids are there but there's no getting past those big, powerful fruits. Some nice minerality and rockiness underlying the fruit flavors. A bruiser of a Meursault.
Flight 4 - Meursault Part Two (2 notes)
White
2013 Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes
94 points
The most chiseled (and overall nicest) of the four Meursaults tasted side-by-side. A gorgeous full nose boasts golden fruit, citrus peel, crushed rock minerality and smoke/toast from the oak. Medium-to-full weight palate is broad and long with rich and creamy fruit riding bright acids. Love the fresh cut mint notes that add complexity. Lingering and delicious lemony, tangy finish.
White
2013 Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
93 points
A real treat to taste side-by-side with the Charmes. In comparison, the nose here is less evolved and generous. Broad, non-delineated notions of white fruit, citrus, mineral and toast. Palate is stuffed with round, rich fruit, searing acidity and well-integrated barrel notes. Nice ying and yang of tart acids with creamy fruit. Already delicious, but I get the sense this will unfold and get better with time in bottle.
Flight 5 - St. Aubin Part One (2 notes)
White
2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Perrières Blanc
89 points
Medium full nose is crisp with just under-ripe green apple and minerality. Match stick is there too, but blows off a bit with time in the glass. Linear and lean on the palate (coming off the more rich Meursaults). Green apple and seashells. Pronounced acidic cut provides tension and definition. A laser-like, fresh, crisp wine.
White
2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin La Pucelle Blanc
92 points
A step up from the Perrières tasted side-by-side. Medium full nose has crisp, sliced green apple and minerality. The palate here has concentration and power with balancing acidic tension. Yellow and white fruit along with chalkiness, minerality and salinity. Layered and long.
Flight 6 - St. Aubin Part Two (2 notes)
White
2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin Le Banc Blanc
90 points
Medium full nose has green apple, seashells and some match stick. Similar to the Pucelle tasted just before this, the palate has great concentration that marries well with racy acids. I found a little less depth of flavor but a very similar palate in terms of texture and length.
White
2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes Blanc
85 points
An odd showing. The nose here is dominated by match stick and even beyond that I found the fruit a little herbal/earthy/funky. On the palate this is lean and a bit angular. The fruit never really comes out to play. Simple and awkward.
Flight 7 - St. Aubin Part Three (1 note)
White
2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc
93 points
Wow, this is the star of the PYCM Saint-Aubin show. Full nose has aromas of concentrated orchard fruit, some flinty match stick, notions of tropical fruit with some spice (from barrel?). On the palate, there is a terrific richness and density of sweet fruit. Lively, racy acids provide freshness, tension and length. Rich, concentrated finish.
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