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1996 Barolo & Barbaresco Blind

L'Apicio, NYC

Tasted June 15, 2016 by kenv with 605 views

Introduction

This group was started by Tony Kim through the discussion forum on Antonio Galloni's Vinous. We've been meeting semi-regularly to drink Nebbiolo for close to two years now.

We met at L'Apicio in the East Village in NYC at 6:30. The food and the setting were perfect. I highly recommend L'Apicio.

The tasting was blind in a somewhat unusual way. We all knew which 12 wines were in the tasting and which sets of 4 wines were grouped into a flight, but we did not know the order of the flights or the order of the wines within each flight. However, we did a reveal after each flight, so we had no idea which flight was Flight 1, but we knew that Flight 2 was either the Barbaresco or the Serralunga flight, and when we got to Flight 3, we knew it had to be the Serralunga flight (but again, not the order of the wines within the flight).

For more details and lots of pix, look here:
http://www.finewinegeek.com/tn/2016-06-15_NV_1996_LApicio/

Flight 1 - Starter (1 note)

Focaccia and Olive Oil.

White
2005 Kongsgaard Chardonnay USA, California, Napa Valley
94 points
[Pop & pour.] Big rich buttery nose. Complex and full in the mouth. Delicious wine!
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 2 - Flight 1: Monforte d'Alba & Castiglione Falletto (4 notes)

Shared Apps:
Charred Octopus with Fregola, Sopressata, Olives, and Lemon.
Tuscan Kale Caesar with Shaved Brussels Sprouts, Parmesan Vinaigrette, and Pickled Red Onions.
Anson Mills Polenta with a Ragu of Pennsylvania Mushrooms.
Balsamic Tomato Bruschetta: Marinated Cherry Tomatoes, Ricotta, and Torn Basil.
Arancini with Tomato Sauce.

Red
1996 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
93 points
[Opened around 9, decanted at 3, left in decanter about 2 hours, and then back into the bottle.] Smoky black fruit nose. Balsam. Tart and tannic cherries. Thick and silky. A lovely wine.
Red
1996 Vietti Barolo Rocche Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
flawed
[Double decanted at 10am. Cork sucked back into the bottle.] Muted woodsy nose. Tart tannic but also a little cooked? Not a representative bottle, I think.
Red
1996 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Monprivato Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
94 points
[Double decanted at 10am.] Sweet, forward complex. Long and delicious finish. The most ready tonight of the wines so far. Really lovely.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1996 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Ca d'Morissio Riserva Monprivato Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
97 points
[Double decanted at 9am.] Black fruit and tar nose. Stunningly complex in the mouth. A riveting wine. Super long, but still far from its peak. Wow!

Flight 3 - Flight 2: Barbaresco (4 notes)

Shared Pasta Course:
Gnocchi with Braised Rabbit Ragu, Sage, and English Peas.
Tajarin (Hand-Cut Fettuccine) with Speck, Leeks, and Carbonara.
Spaghetti with Tomato, Basil, and Parmesan
and a side of Meatballs (gratis).

Red
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Asili Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
98 points
[Double-decanted around 10am.] Stunning black fruit and tar nose. Rich, structured, expansive. A terrific and exciting bottle of wine.
Red
1996 Cappellano Barbaresco Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
96 points
[Double decanted at 11am.] Same nose as the Asili Riserva (so I thought it might be the Giacosa SS). Iron and rich fruit in the mouth (so again I thought it might be the Giacosa SS). Very long. A terrific wine with a long future. 95-97
Red
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Rabajà Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
95 points
[Double decanted at 11am.] Thick dark ripe fruit. Muted nose. Quite tannic, but also expansive and tasty. Needs time.
Red
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
94 points
[Double-decanted around 10am.] Silky, sour cherry. Appealing, complex, tannic, but with a long finish.

Flight 4 - Flight 3: Serralung d'Alba (4 notes)

New York Strip Steak with Summer Squash, Carrot Tops, and Dijon Glace.

Red
1996 Massolino Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
97 points
[Double decanted at 8am.] Stunning black fruit nose. Thick, rich, brooding. I thought this could have been the Cappellano Franco. Stunningly complex wine with a long future. More ready than the Cappellano Franco. Should drink very well for at least 20 more years. Arguably, the happy surprise of the night.
Red
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga d'Alba Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
flawed
[Double decanted at 8am.] Muted medicinal nose. Backward, thick. Chocolate and black cherry. Doesn't taste at all like Giacosa. Maybe an off bottle?
Red
1996 Cappellano Barolo Pie Franco Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
97 points
[Double decanted at 11am.] Black fruit, tar and licorice nose. Amazingly sweet, tannic, and complex. Simply a great young wine. Great length and complexity. Wow. Just wow. 96-98
Red
1996 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
91 points
[Double decanted at 10am.] Austere, aggressive tarry tannins. Vegetative note. Sweet vanilla on the finish.

Closing

1996 is a great vintage. Many of the best wines still need time, but with air are now showing a lot of their potential.

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