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Vouvray (searching for value)
Dan's
Tasted July 20, 2016 by Loren Sonkin with 454 views
Introduction
Last night my tasting group met to drink Vouvray. This particular group tries to find value in wines currently on the market (although sometimes we veer off course). Last night 7 of us gathered and had a nice variety of wines to sample. We tried to divide the wines into appropriate flights to have better comparisons. The wines were served blind and revealed after each flight. In all, we had about three hours for the tasting. Our host Dan, provided some excellent cheese and breads to go with the wines.
Flight 1 - A Sparkling Flight (2 notes)
White - Sparkling
N.V. Jardin en Fleurs Vouvray Pétillant
90 points
This is a sparkling Vouvray. 100% Chenin Blanc. I did not see a vintage on the label. Golden in color. The nose has some sweaty socks but that blows off leaving a slight orange peel with some sea air. On the palate, it is dry with slight butterscotch notes. Also some citrus. There is a perception of sweetness right at the end of the finish. Good carbonation. Drinks full bodied but easily. Delicious too.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Château Moncontour Vouvray Pétillant Brut Tete de Cuvee
87 points
I did not see the word Petillant on the label but it certainly was. Light golden in color. The nose has a fair amount of earthy stink on it. Also some tight minerality. On the palate, petillant in style (not a lot of bubbles). Seems slightly tired and lacking freshness. Not much fruit, a bit of minerality. Its good not great.
Flight 2 - A Sec flight (5 notes)
Not all bottles were marked Sec, but we guessed.
White
2014 Champalou Vouvray
88 points
Light golden in color. The nose has minerals and slight orange notes. On the palate - tart tangerine. Nice texture. There is some complexity here. Long finish. For $18, there is plenty of value. Drinking fresh.
White
2009 Goulaine Vouvray
89 points
Mark brought this. He had bought it on close out years ago for around $5. It was my favorite wine of this flight (but the groups last). To be fair, this did not belong in this flight as it is more demi-sec in nature. Deeper gold in color. The nose has slight earthy stink, slight caramel and apples. Yes, it was a bit oxidized, but that did not bother me as much as some. On the palate, this is sweet with oranges. Slightly viscous. Nice depth to it. Plenty of apple juice. As someone who loves apples but is allergic to them, and doesn't mind a bit of oxidation in wine, I had no issues with the "flaws" here. Obviously, the group felt different. So, take my note with a grain of salt. I went back to it later and found it lively and enjoyable. Still, best to drink this sooner than later.
White
2014 Marc Brédif Vouvray Classic
88 points
Light green gold in color.. The nose has slight lime followed by citrus - tangerine. also some minerals. On the palate, this is dry. My notes say this is a solid-plus wine. It has a very nice weight to it. Others commented on its richness and mouthfeel. Nice minerality. For under $20, another Vouvray with good value. Versatile as well. This was the groups wine of the flight.
White
2014 Sandlands Chenin Blanc Amador County
87 points
In thru this in blind to see where it would fall. No one knew there was a ringer there. Light gold in color. The nose is dusty and chalky. Also compared to the other wines, this seemed to have a fair amount of oak on it. Some minerals. On the palate, not much fruit. Its dry with chalk and minerals. Jeff thought it tasted like an oaked Cal Chard without much fruit when tasting it blind. At $27, it was the most expensive wine in the flight. The group had it as their #2 of the flight.
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Comment
White
2014 Château Moncontour Vouvray
85 points
Light gold/copper in color. Very different from the rest. Chris mentioned quince as a descriptor for Vouvray in general and this may have been the one that had it. Also a sort of grassy note. It is slightly sweet and has a slight complexity. No faults, I just wished it had more of everything. A very light, slight wine to me. Not bad but for $19 Ohio, there didn't seem to be value for me here.
Flight 3 - A Demi-Sec flight (3 notes)
White
2015 Foucher Lebrun Vouvray La Vigne des Sablons
88 points
Light gold in color. The nose is very tight. Minerals and slight tangerine. On the palate, this is slightly sweet. Fresh but a green apple (not oxidized) and citrus note. Decent acidity. Good finish. At $17 Ohio, plenty of value. Another versatile wine.
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Comment
White - Off-dry
2002 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu
90 points
Another 2002 Huet showing some oxidation issues. Not terrible, but not pristine either. When on, this rocks, and at age 14, hard to say pre-mox, yet good bottles show much younger. Golden in color. The nose shows some apple juice but also some citrus and slight salinity. On the palate, this is slightly sweet. Good texture. A bit of apple juice but depth and complexity with a nice minerality too. Good acidity. Oh well.
White - Off-dry
2014 Domaine Pichot Vouvray Demi-Sec Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette
89 points
Light silvery color. The nose is a bit dusty with tangerines. Slightly sweet. Some depth. Some citrus and minerals. Nice acidity. Easy drinking. $18 Ohio. Good value.
Flight 4 - A dessert flight (3 notes)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1990 Domaine des Baumard Coteaux du Layon Clos de Sainte Catherine
92 points
My WOTN. Yes, it is not a Vouvray, but close enough and still Chenin. Deep gold in color. The nose is sugary with honey and peaches. Semi-sweet at this point in its life. Viscous. Medium amount of complexity. I would like a bit more acidity, but certainly not flabby. Nice finish.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2008 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Le Haut-Lieu
flawed
Not sure what was going here. a tough night for Huet. Jeff though it tasted like a buttered ear or corn and that perhaps it had gone thru full malo. I thought there was a bit of VA on the nose which was not helping anything. Nice texture. Some citrus and acidity. Slightly sweet. i am assuming not a proper bottle. A quick look at WA shows Steven Reinhardt reviewing a different wine saying that 07 had high levels of Malic Acid, so perhaps this somehow went thru that fermentation too. No other CT notes, so be careful on this one.
White - Sweet/Dessert
2005 Foreau Domaine du Clos Naudin Vouvray Moelleux
93 points
Could have just as easily been my WOTN, but this is still young. Light golden in color. The nose is sweet with some salinity and tangerine while also showing some honey. On the palate, this is sweet not cloying with oranges and orange peel. Slightly clipped on the finish, but that is being picky. A delicious wine with a nice future ahead.
Closing
There is definitely some value here especially at the lower end. I have always found Huet to be at the top of the Vouvray pyramid, but quality control is certainly an issue. Another disappointing if random 2002 followed by a weird 2007. While not crazy expensive, they wines are still a lot of money to be gambling on bad bottles.