AP 12 98. Beautifully pure and fresh, cassis and mint, smoky, waxy bottle-age, delicate and stylish, floral, long.

Beautifully fresh and gentle, aromatic green herbs, peach and red berries, hint of cream, relaxed and flowing, long. Marvellous quality at 30 years of age.

Lovely depth on the nose, fresh nuts and lemon curd, smoky depth; lovely freshness, quite evolved flavours, gentle mousse, hint of green apple, good resonance and length.

Rich and spicy nose, toasted, big Pinot aromas, deep; quite a formidable palate, fierce acidity, especially for a 2003, opulent but seems a bit uneasy at present; tight finish, but it is layered and long. Wait.

Ripe grapes, honeysuckle, linden flowers, deep; juicy and ripe style, quite structured, relatively soft acidity; good length.

Bottled June 2016. Quite closed on the nose, field flowers, gentle warmth from the wood; harmonious and gentle style, medium weight (12.5% ABV); good length.

Pristine bottle. Decanted. Subtle but intense style, cream and chalk, aromatic green herbs, harmonious, refined and flowing, perfect intensity and depth, wonderful length.

Big and rich and powerful, slightly toasty oak, aromatic green herbs, decent mineral core, intense but not subtle, good length. Not too keen on this, a bit brutish.

Magnum. Mature but lively appearance; perfectly classical left bank nose; fresh and elegant palate, slender but not thin, metallic edge to the acidity, tannins are mostly resolved; sweet fruit and black tea on the finish, good length.

Pristine bottle, purchased at Christie's NY Doris Duke sale in 2004. Top shoulder level. Mature but lively appearance, still some red left; fresh and delicate, pure and elegant, smoky nose, no signs of decay, great finesse, perfectly intact, gentle grip, wonderful length. A star.

Wonderful freshness for the vintage, beautiful black cherry fruit, spicy new oak, rich Asian spice, balanced and linear, floral lift, wonderful mineral core, surprising energy for the vintage, will last much longer than perhaps expected.

Pristine bottle, purchased directly from the estate, very top shoulder level. Sandalwood, fresh and gentle, acidity still integrated (just), tannins resolved, good balance and length.

Purchased at Sworder's sale of Hugh Johnson's Saling Hall cellar in 2013. Tannic and fresh, classic left bank nose, sandalwood, deep and spicy, still much in reserve, beautiful freshness and tannic structure, slender but well balanced, very good length. Not broad or rich, but the drive is amazing.

Rich and mature style, slightly balsamic, tannic and fresh, deep and powerful, completely alive, very good length.

Pure and fresh style, substantial bitters, spices and roses, relatively dry, masculine, good length.

Very good energy, freshness and richness, spiced strawberries and cream, flavour of acacia honey, really young and powerful, balancing freshness and bitters, excellent length. An outstanding vintage for this sometimes great but notoriously variable wine.

From Christie's Avery cellar sale in 2016. Deep and rich amber colour, butterscotch nose, big and rich palate, substantial bitters, firm acidity, structured and masculine, long. Not so much tired but very developed. Very different from other bottles I have had before.

Corked.

Very top shoulder level. Monumental. Not unlike an old Grande Champagne Cognac on the nose. Magnificent botrytis and power, honey, strawberries and cream, everything in place, concentrated and powerful, caramel, resinous oak, big and strong, sève and richness, never ending finish.

AP 09 06. Magnificent purity and energy, cassis and peach and honey, sweet and fresh, passion fruit, amazing intensitity and drive, light as a feather but very concentrated, the cleanest botrytis I have ever tasted, endless length. Breathtaking beauty.

Half bottle. Fantastic botrytis and slate expression on the nose, delicate and smoky, flowers and caramel and honey, strawberries and cream, elegant rather than powerful, delightfully fresh, bitters, Alpine herbs, fabulous length.