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Graves and Pessac Leognan from bottle: 2015 vintage

UGCB tastings in New York and Washington DC

Tasted January 29, 2018 by PanosKakaviatos with 485 views

Introduction

Tasted in both Washington D.C. and New York City earlier this month of January 2018, it is with pleasure to report that one can find pretty good whites from this rather hot vintage as well as excellent reds. Some estates did better than others but without too many surprises.

Flight 1 - The reds (13 notes)

Red
2015 Château Olivier France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
92 points
Surprise, surprise? Maybe not. This estate has been doing very well in recent years and 2015 from bottle is no exception. The blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, aged in one-third new oak exudes both bright ripe fruit and richness. A lovely wine and competes well with the more expensive Pessac-Léognans.
3 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
92 points
Another fine showing from Pessac-Léognan, exuding more elegance than the de Fieuzal tasted just before. A smooth delivery and not as "modern feeling" as in previous years. Indeed, the estate is cutting back on the percentage of new oak, which also made their white more successful in this vintage than expected.
3 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château de France France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
90 points
A very fresh and frank expression on this wine, and always a bargain price. The ripe fruit and clean expression is welcome even if it lacks the depth and layered density of the better wines from Pessac-Léognan. I will look out for the price and decide based on that.
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château de Fieuzal France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
91 points
Well, I am not as enthusiastic as some tasters perhaps because while I love the substance to the mid palate, it strikes me as just a bit heavy in its expression, especially on the finish. But make no mistake: you get a robust and rich wine here!
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
93 points
A lovely nose precedes a rich palate, opulent, that envelopes the taster with multilayered texture. Ripe fruit, mainly dark, but not heavy, this wine exudes its Cabernet Franc driven freshness, too, with nearly 60% in the blend, with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot.
Red
2015 Château Bouscaut France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
87 points
A disappointing showing from this estate, which usually performs better. Just comes across more hefty than elegant. Will try again in the near future to re-evaluate.
Red
2015 Château Carbonnieux France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
90 points
Very red strawberry in aspect, and fruit driven. Not the longest finish and a touch simple, but the price is likely right.
Red
2015 Domaine de Chevalier France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
94 points
Gorgeous, expansive, juicy and opulent. A primary aspect that is expected. There is much red fruit on the mid palate, and the finish is very long. One of the top reds of Graves region to be sure.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château Haut-Bailly France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
95 points
The top red of the Graves region? Why? There is at first a strict aspect to the wine, very cassis focused, very Cabernet. Time in glass brings about such pristine "breed" to the taster, as if we enter a realm of "high art". The texture is not so much silky as nuanced, and intriguing. There is real freshness and depth as well, but the effect is greater than the sum of the parts. Cooler blue fruit elegance on the finish with much lift, but also subtle density to the wine, which means that this will age very well. It reminds me of the 2005 in a similar stage of evolution, some 10 years ago.
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château Latour-Martillac France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
91 points
A solid red, with black cherry aspects, red cherry too, and an overall frank and direct expression of fruit. The tannin is present but ripe, and the finish is medium plus. You can find more successful Pessac Léognan reds, but this should not be too pricey.
Red
2015 Château Malartic-Lagravière France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
90 points
I was somewhat underwhelmed by this wine. Sure, it is brisk and there is ripe red fruit, but the tannins come across a bit too edgy for the vintage and just a tad drying. I give it a cautious 90...
2 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château Pape Clément France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
93 points
Score higher if you like the style! But I have to admit that it does seem hard to resist on one level as it comes across opulent, juicy - at least on the mid palate - and very broad. Good thing they are reducing the new oak component as the 65% new oak is better managed here than the higher percentage in previous vintages. Still, the 14.5% alcohol leeches enough of the new oak tannin to leave the taster with a drying sensation on the finish and - depending on your sensitivity to this - score appropriately.
4 people found this helpful Comment
Red
2015 Château Smith Haut Lafitte France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
93 points
I prefer this to the Pape Clement, tasted just before. Why? There is greater sap driven fruit, although every bit as warm and luscious. Yes, a tad warm, but the juiciness is thoroughly enjoyable as is the ripe fruit nature of this wine, with a long and pleasing finish. While not as "classy" as, for example, Haut Bailly, this is very pleasurable.
3 people found this helpful Comment

Flight 2 - The whites (9 notes)

White
2015 Château Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
92 points
A lovely surprise from this estate whose high percentage of new oak sometimes masked the fruit in their white wines, but - as owner Emilie Gervoson told me - only 50% new oak was used for aging the 2015 (as opposed to the 100%). It shows here, as the blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon comes across fresh and rich. A very enjoyable wine for a decent price I would think, and a fine performance for a vintage that did not favor whites, really.
White
2015 Château de Chantegrive Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves
91 points
Hard to resist this fine Graves, especially as the price is (more than) right. There is a chipper cool impression that surprises the taster for the vintage, and also a thick aspect that lends substance to the palate without ever being heavy. Love the salty iodine like freshness throughout. Nice! Get the oysters out.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2015 Château Carbonnieux Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
90 points
Tasted after the Chantegrive, one gets a more yellow fruit expression, with a touch of exotic aspects like Kiwi and papaya. Yet there is salinity and even a hint of green. Perhaps the estate picked some grapes earlier to maintain freshness? I like it, but not as much as I was expecting to.
White
2015 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
94 points
An excellent white! Sure, not reaching the heights I think of the previous vintage, but there is excellent dry extract and structure for aging, even if the acidity is a bit lower than optimal. And this was a better showing than from barrel. The aromas presage opulence, with white pear and apricots aplenty combined with a seafaring saltiness that lends freshness. The palate includes some wet stone aspects that retain interest, even if there is a kind of broadness and a touch of headiness to the wine. Overall, an excellent white!
3 people found this helpful Comment
White
2015 Château Latour-Martillac Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
88 points
A somewhat disappointing showing from an estate that usually does better in warmer vintages. I get the feeling that grapes were picked (a bit too) early to maintain freshness, and that the ripeness is not optimal. It has a brisk aspect to be sure, and other tasters enjoyed the freshness, but I think it lacks enough balance.
White
2015 Château La Louvière Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
92 points
Bravo to La Louviere this year! Made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc, which seemed to handle the heat better than Semillon, this wine is one of the best whites of the vintage - and the price should not be too onerous. There is a smooth and creamy texture, and yet you get fine balance and freshness, too. Bravo!
2 people found this helpful Comment
White
2015 Château Malartic-Lagravière Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
92 points
A very enjoyable white for the vintage. Owner Severine Bonnie explained how a certain amount of lees stirring lends mid palate richness, and you do get that. But also important is excellent balancing freshness to this wine, that seems surprising for the vintage. Sure, their 2014 is more precise and more fresh, but this is a darn good bottle of white.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2015 Château Pape Clément Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
92 points
The style is opulence times ten - and I like it in 2015! The blend of 46% Sauvignon Blanc, 44% Semillon and the rest Sauvignon Gris - aged in 60% new oak - exudes apricot jam, licorice, and nougat. Hard to resist, and it does not come across flabby. Heady? Yes. If you are in the mood for this sort of wine, as I sometimes can be, go for it!
White
2015 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
93 points
An excellent white that comes across subtle and elegant as well as dense and thick: an interesting melange, would you not agree? The wine initially has a slightly closed nose, but then reveals sweet herbal perfume like aromatics, white flower and then white stone fruit. The palate then has density and richness, and - sure - there is the vintage aspect, but it has fine balance. A really very good white for 2015.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Closing

All in all, a very good showing from Pessac-Léognan

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