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Pulling a Kevin Shin - a full day of fine wines over leisurely meals

Southern California

Tasted June 8, 2018 - June 11, 2018 by clayfu with 633 views

Introduction

Ryan Golden8wines.com coordinated a fine dinner of delicious wine shared by many generous folks that were local, from out of town, from out of the state and one even out of the country! The lowly wine forum moderator was in attendance, Gaur the Maharaja, Drew from the Great White North, Justin of House Wine Club, Eric of LA and Tburk from the land of Nelly.

Prior to dinner Ryan and the Maharaja wanted to get a late lunch - enticed by the 1995 Trollat, I trekked down over (a hour late) and partook in some sushi, champagne, rhone and burgundy. After a leisurely lunch - Ryan went to grab wine, Mah power napped and I pulled my best possible Francois impression and double decanted/cleaned all the bottles that we were having at dinner that was sent by the out of towners.

I gotta say, I'm surprised by how "clean" Chave is. The last few bottles of older Chave I've double decanted for sediment, really don't have that much fine sediment running through. Neither did the Allemands. Their sediment actually was all in the form of a thick sludge that sat heavily on the bottom ring of the bottle. The Juge on the other hand was a sediment beast - the last quarter bottle you can see the fine sediment even though the bottle was stood up for almost a month.

The setting of the dinner was at Republique. Another great performance by them. Staff as attentive as usual and food was spot on. Love sitting at the table upstairs in its own little space where it isn't too loud, but can people watch the very busy restaurant. Don't hesitate to reach out to their somm Sam.

Flighted up the wine to go with the courses.

WOTN for me was 1989 Chave followed closely by 1985 Marcel Juge. The 1992 were blinded by Ryan and were so damn youthful, never would have guessed 92 for either bottle and they were delicious.

Flight 1 - Sushi wine (3 notes)

Red
1996 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Opened and tasted a few hours before dinner and was fresh and lively. When dinner came it started to hulk out. Big broad ripe dense wine. Lots of material and flavor and full of fruit and burly structure. Turned from bright to dark. Never quite went back to where it started from. Actually fit well with the Rhone as it had the weight and ripeness.
White - Sparkling
1996 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil France, Champagne
this sexy beast is finally opening up. Pure as an angel getting its new wings. The chardonnay fruit is so damn clean and forward. Loads and loads of white flowers, brioche and rich orchard fruit. It gains in richness and intensity over time. Has that same level of power and concentration that the 96 Krug brut has but with more acid, cleaner fruit and a sick ass cut
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1995 Raymond Trollat St. Joseph Vieilles Vignes France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Joseph
lots of warm baking spice and a little baked bread on the nose. Over time a bit of an alcoholic tinge became pronounced. The palate was shut down for awhile but when it finally opened up it was a bit clunky and big. Not sure what’s going on with the wine. Whether it’s off or in a weird phase. I’d say time will tell but who knows when I’ll ever try another 95 Trollat. Ha

Flight 2 - White wine (2 notes)

White
2011 Emmanuel Houillon (Maison Pierre Overnoy) Chardonnay Arbois Pupillin France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
electric acidity racing down the sweet tropical fruit rollup mid palate. Expansive and textured with broad minerality. Very nice. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
White
1982 Marcel Juge St. Péray France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Péray
past drinking window. Nutty. Not much on the palate.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 - Old Cornas (3 notes)

Red
1989 Thierry Allemand Cornas Reynard France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
started out filled with violet , sweet dirt and blue fruit flowing on the bouquet. Palate was precise, lean and focused with a meaty fruit purple chew. But fell off hard and dilute at the end of the night. Next bottle I probably wouldn’t double decant and just pop and pour.
Red
1990 Thierry Allemand Cornas France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
the opposite of the 1989. Also double decanted before dinner. A bit reticent when we first poured it, not as expressive. But as the night wore on, the palate started to reveal and unfurl from its dark structured frame. Loads of dark sweet fruit and tannin. Heavy on the palate and really sits on the finish.
Red
1985 Marcel Juge Cornas France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
best bottle I’ve had of it. Beautiful fresh extraction on the fruit, chewy tannin in the background and loads of chilling acidity. There’s a great bite of flavor on the mid palate. ⠀⠀

Flight 4 - The blind golden8wines flight (2 notes)

Red
1992 Noël Verset Cornas France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
textured, long, sweet and chockfull of delicious savory meat and cool acid. Classic verset and tasted very youthful. A little goat cheese funk on the nose that blew off quickly. Absolute master of his craft. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Red
1992 Grippat Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Dang had to add the vintage into CT! warm meaty baking spice on the nose that screamed Hermitage. Soft supple fruit and length on the palate. Oodles of warm fruit courses to the finish.

Flight 5 - Not Cornas (2 notes)

Red
1989 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
mind blowing good. Similar to a bottle I had last year. Electric acidity and fruit courses through the mid palate. The roast meat adds to the complexity. There is power and concentration in spades. There’s this funk edge that climbs up the nose mixed with pure big sweet red fruit and cool mint that ties it all together. WOTN among heavy weights. When the bottles are right they are prime examples of Hermitage.
1 person found this helpful Comments (1)
Red
1991 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
the $2000 bottle ;). Strikingly youthful in its firm structure and tannin. Long grain tannin finish. Still shy but incredibly dense dark black fruit and olive with significant weight. The nose is classic expressive Jamet, a touch of green/bacon fat/olive. Gonna be a long ager.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 6 - Youthful triumphs (2 notes)

Red
2011 Thierry Allemand Cornas Sans Soufre France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
dark, tannic, Black fruited with an edge of rusticity on the palate. Really persistent tannin to match that dark fruit and game profile. Had a heavier weight that almost tasted of reduction with a saline presence. The nose shows similar in that it’s dusty, earthy cigar with black fruit. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Red
2014 Thierry Allemand Cornas Sans Soufre France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
still the most explosive nose I’ve ever gotten out of a young wine. An absolute gamma bomb of exotic spice, white violet and sweet ripe red crunchy fruit. Incredibly fresh and alluring on the nose. Super clean. On the palate is much of the same. Pure sweet fruit persists into a long finish. Sparkling acidity to add to all that freshness. Absolutely delicious wine. Can’t wait to see where time takes it.
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