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The best 88 Champagnes from 1988 Part 1/3
Les Crayeres Reims
Tasted October 12, 2018 - October 13, 2018 by aquacongas with 904 views
Introduction
Peter Crawford's epic 1988 Champagne Tasting started with a dinner at Les Crayeres. He organized 91 (officially 88) different wines from this amazing vintage. In my opinion with 1979 the best in the last 40 years.
There were 6 flights respectivly before the food course. Around 50% were from Peter's cellar, 40% directly from the maisons. Many of them from Magnum and some of them lately disgorged. Only the rest he bought from the secondary market for the tasting. This was one of the reasons for the perfect conditions of the bottles.
We used the Lehmann Jamesse Synergie glas. A perfect champagne glas. Even if you have a small zip in the glas you get the full flavors and "mistakes". All wines were served blindly.
Flight 1 (1 note)
White - Sparkling
N.V. Cattier Champagne Premier Cru Brut Clos du Moulin
93 points
Base 88
It was the start in an epic 88 Tasting. Not blind.
Fresh, Toffee, some mint, milk chocolate but still a lot of lime zest, a little bit too warm served, greatly balanced. At his peak. 93
It was the start in an epic 88 Tasting. Not blind.
Fresh, Toffee, some mint, milk chocolate but still a lot of lime zest, a little bit too warm served, greatly balanced. At his peak. 93
Flight 2 (5 notes)
The Legras and Haas was not only my wien of the Night. So Burgundy and elegant. I love this nutieness.
White - Sparkling
1988 A. Margaine Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Millésimé
89 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
The "weakest" in this flight but still drinkable. Very faszinating black tea notes in the nose but in the palate fresher. Just over his peak. Not done. 89-90
The "weakest" in this flight but still drinkable. Very faszinating black tea notes in the nose but in the palate fresher. Just over his peak. Not done. 89-90
White - Sparkling
1988 Champagne Le Mesnil Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Millésimé
91 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas, Vinotheque
Toffee, Creme brulee, fresh, balanced and a clean finish. At his top. 91
Toffee, Creme brulee, fresh, balanced and a clean finish. At his top. 91
White - Sparkling
1988 Legras & Haas Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Millésimé
96 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
For me and for many others the wine of the night (Part 1).
The nose is perfect. You think you drink a big corton charlemagne. Roasted hazelnuts, pine nuts, but colour (pale yellow) and freshness in the palate are incredible young. Disgorgement around 08 or 09. No aging signs. I guessed BdB and Magnum. 96(97)
For me and for many others the wine of the night (Part 1).
The nose is perfect. You think you drink a big corton charlemagne. Roasted hazelnuts, pine nuts, but colour (pale yellow) and freshness in the palate are incredible young. Disgorgement around 08 or 09. No aging signs. I guessed BdB and Magnum. 96(97)
White - Sparkling
1988 Robert Moncuit Champagne Grand Cru Grande Cuvee Blanc de Blancs Brut
93 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
Some honey, cognac, some nice aging signs, maybe just over his peak but greatly balanced and with refreshing acidity. 93
Some honey, cognac, some nice aging signs, maybe just over his peak but greatly balanced and with refreshing acidity. 93
White - Sparkling
1988 Agrapart Champagne Grand Cru Minéral Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut
90 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
first bottle slightly corked (there was discussion at the table), second bottle: herbals, roasted hazelnuts, dried fruits, a little bit tired. 90
first bottle slightly corked (there was discussion at the table), second bottle: herbals, roasted hazelnuts, dried fruits, a little bit tired. 90
Flight 3 (4 notes)
Four really strong babies. Les Chetillons is amazing and brutally good. But both from Magnum and the maison.
White - Sparkling
1988 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons
95 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas, Magnum, Reserve Familiale
Reluctant nose. In the nose lime blossom tea, later in the late palate roasted macadamia nuts, but incredible fresh and precise. Similar to Guy Charlemagne's Chetillons. 95
Reluctant nose. In the nose lime blossom tea, later in the late palate roasted macadamia nuts, but incredible fresh and precise. Similar to Guy Charlemagne's Chetillons. 95
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Comment
White - Sparkling
1988 Guy Charlemagne Champagne B. C. Origine Les Chetillons
95 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas, Magnum, freshly disgorged, 2 weeks before, closed with a crown cap.
So fresh, from colour and taste it could be 2002. Citrus,menthol, after half hour some herbals. 95+
So fresh, from colour and taste it could be 2002. Citrus,menthol, after half hour some herbals. 95+
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White - Sparkling
1988 André Jacquart Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Millésimé Expérience Le Mesnil
93 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
Only grapes from Le Mesnil. Riper than the Les Chetillons from Guy Charlemagne and Pierre Peters but still fresh and cracking. Lime,grapefruit, just a few tertiary aromas, after 20 minutes some spicieness, green tea. 93
Only grapes from Le Mesnil. Riper than the Les Chetillons from Guy Charlemagne and Pierre Peters but still fresh and cracking. Lime,grapefruit, just a few tertiary aromas, after 20 minutes some spicieness, green tea. 93
White - Sparkling
1988 R. & L. Legras Champagne Grand Cru Saint-Vincent
95 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
It should be the same content as Legras and Haas. Citrus , green chestnut, later vanilla and coffee. At his peak. not so much roasted pine nut as legras and Haas. 95
It should be the same content as Legras and Haas. Citrus , green chestnut, later vanilla and coffee. At his peak. not so much roasted pine nut as legras and Haas. 95
Flight 4 (5 notes)
Two great wines (Taittinger nd suprisingly Mumm) and three without a chance
White - Sparkling
1988 Taittinger Champagne Brut Millésimé
96 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas, Reserve Millisime Magnum
One of the best. Fresh, Vanilla, Creme brullee, dried fig and dates but unbeliavable fresh. Not reached his peak. 95-96
One of the best. Fresh, Vanilla, Creme brullee, dried fig and dates but unbeliavable fresh. Not reached his peak. 95-96
White - Sparkling
1988 G. H. Mumm & Cie Champagne Cordon Rouge Brut
95 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
Nougat, Milk chocolate, toffee, yuzu sweetness, perfectly balanced, at his peak. 95
Nougat, Milk chocolate, toffee, yuzu sweetness, perfectly balanced, at his peak. 95
White - Sparkling
1988 Henriet-Bazin Champagne Grand Cru Brut Millésimé
91 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
Honey, ripe red apple, a little bit unbalanced because of his oxidative notes, but still vibrating energy from his acidity
Honey, ripe red apple, a little bit unbalanced because of his oxidative notes, but still vibrating energy from his acidity
White - Sparkling
1988 Maurice Vesselle Champagne Grand Cru Brut Millésimé
90 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
Too broad, not perfectly balanced maybe because of the "sweetness", some coffee and typical aging signs of older champagne. 90
Too broad, not perfectly balanced maybe because of the "sweetness", some coffee and typical aging signs of older champagne. 90
White - Sparkling
1988 Demière-Ansiot Champagne Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs Millésime
89 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
first bottle corked, second bottle too sweet, not balanced, some aceton and pear. 89
first bottle corked, second bottle too sweet, not balanced, some aceton and pear. 89
Flight 5 (5 notes)
I guessed Paul bara as a BdB and thought about Comte de Champagne. Peter was right
White - Sparkling
1988 Pol Roger Champagne Vintage Brut
flawed
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas, Magnum
for many slightly corked, no rating
for many slightly corked, no rating
White - Sparkling
1988 Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Special Club
94 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
Perfectly balanced between acidity and sweetness. Roasted Macadamia, dried fig, creme brullee, at his peak. 94
Perfectly balanced between acidity and sweetness. Roasted Macadamia, dried fig, creme brullee, at his peak. 94
White - Sparkling
1988 Geoffroy Champagne Premier Cru Empreinte
90 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
A little bit boring. No nuts, no dried fruits, no fruits, but still fresh with a lot of acidity. 90
A little bit boring. No nuts, no dried fruits, no fruits, but still fresh with a lot of acidity. 90
White - Sparkling
1988 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut
93 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas, Magnum
It started slowly with few concentration but with time nice decent nuttieness and suprising elegance for a Bollinger R.D. Nicely balanced. maybe a hint too young from this bottle size. 92-93
It started slowly with few concentration but with time nice decent nuttieness and suprising elegance for a Bollinger R.D. Nicely balanced. maybe a hint too young from this bottle size. 92-93
White - Sparkling
1988 De Castelnau Champagne Collection Oenothèque
92 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas, Magnum, disgorged 03/02
green notes, herbal, forrest honey, wild but balanced. 92
green notes, herbal, forrest honey, wild but balanced. 92
Flight 6 (5 notes)
Very high level. My preference Moet and Jacquesson
White - Sparkling
1988 Moët & Chandon Champagne Grand Vintage Collection
94 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas, Magnum, 2003 disgorgement
Nutty, creamy, fullbodied, so fresh, not at his peak, great acidity. Nice to compare with the DP tomorrow. 94+
Nutty, creamy, fullbodied, so fresh, not at his peak, great acidity. Nice to compare with the DP tomorrow. 94+
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White - Sparkling
1988 Boizel Champagne Joyau de France
92 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
In the beginning a little bit broad but after half hour nice dried fruits with good acidity structure. 92
In the beginning a little bit broad but after half hour nice dried fruits with good acidity structure. 92
White - Sparkling
1988 Tarlant Champagne Millésimé
93 points
Kreidefelsen, Toffee, Milk chocolate, caramell, fresh, at his peak. Suprised of the balance. 93
White - Sparkling
1988 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année
94 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas, Magnum
Compared to Jacquesson's Grand Vin Signature it feels riper but still good in shape and nicely balanced. Orange peel and vanilla. 94
Compared to Jacquesson's Grand Vin Signature it feels riper but still good in shape and nicely balanced. Orange peel and vanilla. 94
White - Sparkling
1988 Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Grand Vin Signature Brut
94 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas, Magnum
For me side by side with Bollinger's Grande Annee I would go for the Jacquesson. Many at the table preferred the other one.
Sea breeze, oyster, citrus zest, cracking.Fresh, maybe still too young from this size. 94+
For me side by side with Bollinger's Grande Annee I would go for the Jacquesson. Many at the table preferred the other one.
Sea breeze, oyster, citrus zest, cracking.Fresh, maybe still too young from this size. 94+
Flight 7 (4 notes)
Lanson Top and Selosse not from a perfect bottle unfortunately but still Selosse
White - Sparkling
1988 J. de Telmont Champagne Grand Couronnement
92 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas, Blanc de Blancs
Lush, opulent like a good Sauternes without being sweet. First I thought broad but in the end balanced and harmonious. 92
Lush, opulent like a good Sauternes without being sweet. First I thought broad but in the end balanced and harmonious. 92
White - Sparkling
1988 Besserat de Bellefon Champagne Reserve
91 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
Coffee, toffee, a touch too loud and opulent. I missed the finesse compared to many others from this vintage. 91
Coffee, toffee, a touch too loud and opulent. I missed the finesse compared to many others from this vintage. 91
White - Sparkling
1988 Lanson Champagne Gold Label Brut
95 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas, Magnum, 55-45 CH-PN
One of the winner tonight. A lot of roasted hazelnuts and vanilla but without being annoying, fresh, great balance with fantastic concentration. 95
One of the winner tonight. A lot of roasted hazelnuts and vanilla but without being annoying, fresh, great balance with fantastic concentration. 95
White - Sparkling
1988 Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésimé
95 points
Blind, Jamesse Synergie Glas
This time not so strong as 2 years ago where it hits the maximum. The nose is typical Selosse. Powerful, Creme brull, dried fruits, but today missing a little bit length and bubbles to keep him fresher. 94-95
This time not so strong as 2 years ago where it hits the maximum. The nose is typical Selosse. Powerful, Creme brull, dried fruits, but today missing a little bit length and bubbles to keep him fresher. 94-95
Closing
The food (19.0) and service (20) were amazing and a dignified destination for this unrepeatably event.
A L L champagnes were drinkable with joy and fines bubbles. 1988 is an awesome, generous vintage. No tired bottle, only two corks (one bottle was replaced).
Nearly all wines were between 91-94 points. Most of them at their peak, just over the paek and some didn't even reach their top.
My favorites for Part 1 of 3 were:
Legras and Haas BdB 96
Taittinger Reserve Millesime Magnum 96
Guy Charlemagne Les Chetillons Origine BC Magnum 95+
Mumm Cordon Rouge 95
Lanson Gold label 95
Selosse 95
RL Legras Saint Vincent 95
Jacquesson Grand Vin Signature 94+