Super chalky with notes of quinine, crushed oyster shells, limes and lemons. Intense and bright, but perhaps lacks a bit of depth to the fruit to balance the zero dosage. Still a lovely take, though.

Wow, this was everything I was hoping it would be. Rich, biscuity, doughy, lots of apples and lemon curd fruit, but the richness is matched with briskness, brightness, depth, minerality. Gorgeous, deep fruit, lots of minerals and chalk. Showing well but built for the long haul.

Loving the red fruits (raspberry, strawberry) mixing with the brisk, salty, chalky elements. Good amount of musk, spiced tea, rose potpourri, hints of mushroom coming out. Lots of evolution ahead but beautiful stuff.

Broad, concentrated, and bready, but also shows brightness, zestiness, minerality. Baked apple, toast, biscuits, chalk, honey. Bold but inviting, I'd like to see what happens to this in five to eight years.

Deep nose of apricot, graham crackers, biscuits, sea salt. Nervy yet dense on the palate, the apricot, quince mixes with toasty bread, saline, crushed shells. Lots going on, seems young and a bit dense, but beautiful.

Lively but leesy on the nose. Nougaty, doughy richness on the palate meets bright acidity and chalk, citrus peel, honeyed notes.

Nervy and bright, this had a lot of similar riffs as the 2006, but a bit less opulence perhaps.

Nose of herbs and spice (verbena, grass, mint) with lemon, peach. Creamy and plush on the palate, zippy acidity, though. Lemon and green apple mixed with white tea, cut grass, and some mineral elements. Fun, accessible stuff. About 70/30 Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon.

Lots of citrus and salty aspects on the nose, some honey. Plush, peachy (lots of peaches!), rich yet showing bright acid. Solid depth, too.

Nose shows honey, toasted bread and crème on top of lemons and apples. Plush, waxy texture, fresh acidity, nice balance between oaky, creaminess and crispness, with some spicy, herbal undertones. Mostly Semillon.

Gorgeous aromas, waxy, almond, hay, quince, lemon, mineral dust. The palate is plush but racy, with exquisite minerals and saline, balancing off of this honey, almond elements. Apricot and orange marmalade fruit, with all these complex mineral, dusty elements. So pretty, deep and lively, this has many, many years ahead.

Really cool aromatic display here, with green olives, almond skin, mint, candle wax, with pure lemon and apricot fruit that still shows liveliness. Rich, mouth-filling texture but there precise acidity keeps it bright. Orange marmalade, peach nectar fruit, balanced with these green olive, mushroom, honeycomb, ginger. Wow, this has aged incredibly well. Fascinating stuff and a treat.

A real treat to taste, this was fascinating and unique. It has aged nicely but still shows life and vibrancy. Aromas of hay, honeycomb, dried orange peel, dusty library, hints of mushroom. Brisk acidity frames the wine nicely, and it still has these racy, pretty qualities. Dried citrus peel mixes with a complex host of woodsy, white tea, green olive, honeycomb, sea salt and mushroom notes. Wild but delicious flavors, and the balance is just lovely. Stoked to taste this at almost 40 years of age.

Juicy, energetic, but deep core of fruit on the nose (currants, raspberries, black cherry) with cedar, smoky earth. Concentrated and young on the palate but also surprisingly accessible. Pretty currant and plum fruit, laced with cocoa, earth, cedar, graphite, iron. This needs time but it’s balanced well for a long life ahead. Wow, what a beaut.

Not as opulent or expressive as the 2016 but shows a lot of cherry, currants, with bell pepper, anise, graphite, scorched earth. Strong tannins frame the wine well, moderate acidity. The currant and cherry fruit mixes with anise, charcoal, black tea and cocoa elements. This is quite intense and could use five years to unwind at least.

Lovely complexity on the nose, earth, tea, spice rub, lavender, on top of pretty currant fruit. Crisp acidity frames the wine so well, with serious grip from the tannins, gorgeous depth and texture. Smooth, suave currants and plum fruit, this is big and bold, but nuanced, too, with a mix of earth, graphite, tar, clove, violets. Mineral and black tea elements, too. I like where this is at, but it has a while before it hits its best, and this will be a really long-aging vintage.

Nose shows sweet currants, violets, earth, tobacco, cocoa. Velvety, chewy texture, fresh acidity, juicy red currant fruit. Notes of cocoa, earth, graphite, roasted coffee, some pepper. Holding up well, this had a more forward, fun style, already showing some interesting aged qualities, and it seems to be drinking well now.

Vibrant aromas of red and black currants – serious core of fruit, with tobacco, scorched earth and violets. Such grippy tannins on the palate, but moderate acidity, balanced with bold, concentrated black cherry and currant fruit. Elements of graphite, spiced black tea, anise and cocoa are starting to come out more and more. Still so young and dense, but clearly a beautiful wine for the ages.

A distinct peppery, musky nose on top of sage, earth and mulled black cherries. Solid grip still, some green edges on the tannins, moderate acidity, with tangy cherry and currant fruit. Scorched earth, cedar, sooty, chewing tobacco notes notes. Still a good wine, but it’s a bit unpolished compared to the other vintages.

So, there were other vintages in the tasting I thought were "greater," but this one was the most fun to drink – in such a good place. Complex aromas of roses, earth, sage, fallen leaves, over red currants and plums. The palate is crisp, moderate tannins integrated well, a plush, balanced, effortless feel. Red currant and cherry fruit blends well with herbs, earth, rose petals, clove, bay leaf. Still a ways before those tertiary notes fully take off, and this still has lots of fruit, so it was in a delightful place for my palate.

Aromas show raspberry and red cherry, with lots of pepper, spiced tea, mushroom, some mulling spiced. Silky but structured tannins on the palate, and tangy raspberry and red plum fruit – a brighter, zestier, spicier wine with graphite, mushroom, campfire soot, leaves. Expressive, life ahead, but interesting and tasty developments at this point – a pleasure to drink now.

I love the aromas: red pepper flakes, leather, tobacco, mint, rose hips - it’s aged well but also vibrant with red cherry fruit. Lots of vibrancy on the palate with saucy currant and cherry fruit, mixed with anise, mushroom, tobacco, wet leaves. But there’s still plenty of power left in here. A delight to taste and enjoy.

This is obviously a totally different beast than all the other wines in the tasting, but I loved it. Expressive aromatics of wilted roses, wet leaves, anise, white pepper, soy, dried cranberries. Silky-smooth, effortless tannins blend with zippy acidity on the palate, it's aged and softened but still lively. I still get a bit of fruit (some dried cranberry and light raspberry), but I love the complex host of dusty earthy, wet clay, soy, chewing tobacco, mushroom and musk elements. Fresh, tangy, floral finish. Lots of complexities come out with air. Wow, this goes to show how well these wines can age.

Honeyed aromas with glazed pears and apricot, lychee. Rich and viscous, quite dense, but delicious. Honey, orange marmalade, herbal tea, some roasted nut elements. Really good stuff, but I wish it had just a bit more acidity.

Aromas of graham cracker, quince paste, apricot. Sweet and rich on the palate with glazed pears, dried apricot, quince, nougat. Notes of sea salt and minerals add complexity. Has more complexity and verve than the 2000. Loved this stuff - what a way to finish an epic night.