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2006 Burgundy with a few additions
Noizé, London
Tasted November 16, 2022 by Vinumming & Ahhing with 125 views
Introduction
A fascinating review of these wines 16 years on. As might have been expected following 2002 these were not at quite the same level. As a generalisation the noses of the wines offered more than the palates could deliver. Suspect many will benefit from another 5 years or so. Happy to have a few of these but won't be rushing out to fill the cellar with more.
Flight 1 - Snack (1 note)
White - Sparkling
2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut
93 points
First of my bottles of this, last sampled the wine a couple of year ago. Lovely fine boned nose with lemon posset, some lime oil and torn croissant. Palate has lovely mouthfeel and persistence. With time there is some pineapple stalk to the nose. Excellent fizz.
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Comment
Flight 2 - Whites (2 notes)
White
2015 J.M. Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Truffière
89 points
A little more oak character here with some subtle macaron adding to the fruit, the alcohol shows on the palate from pouring not, as sometimes happens, as the wine warms. Good length and texture.
White
2018 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère
89 points
Lemon oil and faint dill edge to the nose. A little hazelnut and some creaminess. Palate is focused, and well balanced although the solarity of vintage is there in the background with a little more alcohol than would be ideal. Later some chalkiness emerges.
Flight 3 - Cotes de Beaune (3 notes)
Red
2006 Domaine Tollot-Beaut Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavières
90 points
Bright red fruits here, some lift and a touch of florality in time. Cornflowers? Also some squashed blueberries. Palate is a little less giving but with time in the glass and food relaxes a little.
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Red
2006 Domaine Joseph Voillot Volnay 1er Cru Les Fremiets
89 points
Some cherry fruit to start on the nose here later some strawberry shortcake. Of all the reds tonight this is the most open on the palate. Possibly a little too open and plummy. Like many of the other wines tonight needs some food. But improves with it.
Red
2006 Domaine Aleth Girardin Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens-Bas
91 points
Nose is restrained but some red fruits and subtle Christmas spices emerge. Palate starts tight and short but with time in the glass opens out and broadens. For me in this flight, this and the the Tollot Beaut SLB Lavieres are very close qualitatively for 20 mins but this wine pulls away.
Flight 4 - Cotes de Nuits 1ers Crus (3 notes)
Red
2006 Hubert Lignier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Les Blanchards
90 points
Meatier and a bit more tertiary that its flight mates, this is another one that has time ahead. Palate is well structured with a hint of polished mahogany dresser adding to the decaying red fruits.
Red
2006 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges
91 points
Even darker fruit than the Gouges here. Almost Nebbiolo like liquorice character; Faiveleys of this era are famously backward. Lots of swirling coaxes a bit more from the glass, definitely a very serious wine here. Will be better in 10(20?) years but still enjoyable tonight notwithstanding its "youth".
Red
2006 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains
91 points
Blackcurrant pastille on the nose on pouring, clearly a serious wine. There are hints of soy and later some sweet meats. Palate is built for the long haul, a little tight on pouring but (as with most of the wines tonight) some food and air help this wine to open out. Good stuff.
Flight 5 - Cotes de Nutis Grand Crus (with 1er Cru upstart) (3 notes)
Red
2006 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Vieille Vigne
91 points
Nose of real concentration and quality. There is stalky quality to the fruit initially but this fades with time. There is once more a liquorice character to the nose here and some agreeable lift. Later some freshly cut cepes and subtle spice emerges.
Red
2006 Domaine Rossignol Trapet Chambertin
92 points
A complete contrast to the Maume. This suggests feathered game on the nose with bright acidity. Palate starts tightly coiled but gives in time. There is a touch of grated milk chocolate and later some Branston pickle savoury / sweetness. Joint red of the night.
Red
2006 Domaine Maume Mazis-Chambertin
92 points
Earthy, a tad leathery and a wholesomely animale beast here. There is pine needle brightness and volatility to the nose too. Very different and in a good way. Palate has some redcurrant liquor to complement the forest floor tertiary character. Good structure. Joint red of the night.
Flight 6 - Sweet wines (2 notes)
White - Sweet/Dessert
2019 Riversby Estate Noble Riesling
90 points
Very intense and charming nose with waves of sugar syrup, rose water, acacia and Turkish delight. Am reminded of the sweet turnip desert I enjoyed in Wettolsheim in June. Unlike any Riesling I've had before but in a good way. 180-185g of residual sugar here according to the wine make who talked us through the wine, its terroir and elevage.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1986 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon
90 points
On pouring there is a cheesy edge to the nose here with some cyder vinegar acidity, these characteristics blow off after some time in the glass revealing a very classic mature off dry chenin. There is a lovely honeyed dustiness to this. Great acidity.
Closing
Great to meet Kevin and try a couple of fascinating and different sweet wines at the end of the evening.
I do love these Burgundy horizontals.
Thanks to Nick for his sterling work organising them.