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Keller & Haart tasting
Concept Riesling, Düsseldorf, Germany
Tasted January 28, 2023 by Quinn05 with 343 views
Flight 1 (1 note)
White
2021 Weingut Keller Riesling von der Fels
92 points
We had this as an aperitif, but seeing it as just that doesn't do this wine justice. Mainly Granny Smith and citrus for now, with plenty of minerality and insane acidity. With some more age this could really rival some GGs I think.
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Flight 2 (2 notes)
White
2020 Julian Haart Frauenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs
92 points
Herbaceous, elegant and with good lenght. Less acidity than 2018.
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White
2020 Julian Haart Goldtröpfchen Riesling
93 points
Again herbaceous notes in the nose, something smokey as well. Beautiful elegance and insane lenght.
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Flight 3 (1 note)
White
2018 Julian Haart Frauenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs
92 points
Herbaceous, elegant and with good lenght. Much more acidity than 2020.
Flight 4 (2 notes)
White
2019 Julian Haart Ohligsberg Riesling
91 points
Deeper yellow colour than Ohligsberg 2020, and slightly more reductive as well. Tropical fruits layered with some saline minerality. A bit fuller bodied than the 2020 as well.
White
2020 Julian Haart Ohligsberg Riesling
92 points
This was absolutely crystal clear like water, with just on a white background the slightest yellow hue visible on the meniscus. Fresher, less reductive and with more precision than 2019.
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Flight 5 (1 note)
White
2016 Julian Haart Wintricher Riesling
90 points
Despite this already being 7 years old it feels quite young. Very fresh and mineral still. It also has some reductive aromas. Our host explained that this also characteristic for the site from which Julian makes his Wintricher, and is probably not due to excessive SO2 use.
Flight 6 (2 notes)
White
2011 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs
94 points
Probably the biggest wine tonight. The deep golden colour suggests a healthy dose of botrytis, which is confirmed in the nose and on the palate. Sweeter than the 2021 besides it. A clear difference between the pre- and post-2017 Keller style. The 2011 has a lot more body. It's intesely herbacious and creamy. Almost like a white Grand Cru Burgundy.
White
2021 Weingut Keller Oberer Hubacker Riesling Monopol
94 points
Just as good as 2011, but a completely different style. Fresher and bone-dry. much more austere and a much more mineral expression.
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Flight 7 (2 notes)
White
2015 Weingut Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Großes Gewächs
94 points
Compared to 2017 Kirchspiel this has a much deeper yellow colour, a fuller body. It's also much bigger and intenser. This flight was once again a juxtaposition that clearly shows the change in style over at Weingut Keller.
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White
2017 Weingut Keller Kirchspiel Riesling Großes Gewächs
95 points
Much more saline minerality and elegance than 2015. A bit tight still, and the less enjoyable wine today compared to 2015. But in my opinion the wine with much better potential.
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Flight 9 (2 notes)
White
2007 Weingut Keller Morstein Riesling Großes Gewächs
94 points
Massive wine. Lacking a little in precision, but it is amazingly concentrated with an insane, lenghty finish. Still has huge acidity. Drinking great right now, but plenty of life left.
White
2018 Weingut Keller Abts E® Riesling Großes Gewächs
95 points
Lots of citrus fruit of course. The most elegant and refined wine in the lineup today, great purity, minerality and tension. Upon revisting an hour or two later it had developed a rather harsh saline taste that was akin to eating a spoonful of salt with a little Abts E dripped on it, probably just needs some time.
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Flight 10 (2 notes)
White
2019 Julian Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett
91 points
Very light colour, but definitely not lacking in concentration. Seems like there's just a touch of sweetness, but it has huge acidity that might conceal some of the RS. Easy drinking Kabinett, lacking just a little in lenght.
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White - Off-dry
2019 Julian Haart Riesling CR Alte Reben
98 points
How lucky ConceptRiesling is that they got Julian to make this special Alte Reben Kabinett for them. It is a 50/50 blend of Ohligsberg and Goldtropfchen. Pretty much on the same level as the Ohligsberg Alte Reben Kabinett we had later on. The broader, more hedonistic Goldtröpfchen part really gives it such good balance. Just amazing and a pleasure to drink. Have to come by another time to drink this again.
Flight 11 (2 notes)
White
2016 Julian Haart Piesporter Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett
91 points
Nicely balanced, but this suffered from being drunk next to the 2018 Keller Schubi. Which was just overall "more" Kabinett
White
2018 Weingut Keller Piesporter Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett
93 points
This was clearly the better Kabinett (in terms of potential) besides the 2016 Haart Schubi. It was much more mineral, had slightly better balance and was overall just "more Kabi". Needs some time to develop more complexity though.
Flight 12 (1 note)
White
2020 Julian Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Alte Reben Kabinett
98 points
Wow! Such distinct minerality, so pure, so precise, SO Kabinett. 98 points now, but I don't doubt this will be able approach true perfection and a 100 point score in some 10 - 15 years.
Flight 13 (2 notes)
White - Off-dry
2015 Julian Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Auslese **
96 points
Only 71 bottles made, and now 70 left, though more than likely much less. This is great stuff. Still citrus driven, though it also starts to get more tropical fruits with air. Some floral notes as well, and a touch of honey starting to come through. Tasting this was probably a once in a lifetime experience, though I would love to taste it again in some 15 - 20 years.
Flight 14 (1 note)
This was the formal end of the tasting, not a bad wine to end with. :)
White
2021 Weingut Keller Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Kabinett
95 points
Enough acidity right now to burn the enamel right of your teeth, but it calms down with some time (or maybe you just get used to it). Going to age really well I think, so I wouldn't recommend drinking anytime soon. Very, very good expression of the Hipping vineyard.
Flight 15 - The "afterparty" (14 notes)
It started with a Trockenbeerenauslese, which "completed" the tasting, and then we just kept going. Thanks everyone for the generous sharing!
White - Sweet/Dessert
2015 Weingut Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Goldkapsel
98 points
Apricot, passionfruit and orange marmelade. Insanely concentrated and very thick. This is what Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese is all about. I'm almost inclined to say that despite how expensive this wine is nowadays, it is worth it.
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Red
2004 Château Léoville Las Cases
93 points
Decanted for sediment.
Black fruit, cassis, some pencil shavings and a little earthiness coming through. Still rather primary. Amazingly bright acidity which makes it really fresh. You will have finished your glass before you know it.
Drinking quite well now, but a little more ageing won't hurt it.
Black fruit, cassis, some pencil shavings and a little earthiness coming through. Still rather primary. Amazingly bright acidity which makes it really fresh. You will have finished your glass before you know it.
Drinking quite well now, but a little more ageing won't hurt it.
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White
2007 Georg Breuer Rauenthaler Nonnenberg Riesling
Not giving too much tonight. I feel like we drank this too quickly. You could feel the potential, but it was quite tight. Going to try to find some bottles with good provenance to try this again in a few years. NR
White
2007 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Ungeheuer Riesling
95 points
I've had some young Ungeheuer, but this was my first mature bottle. Age on this wine makes such a difference. When young it feels a bit too broad, and there are some components that feel a bit out of place. But in this mature example everything had come together. This was singing tonight, just so beautiful. Looking forward to drinking some more older Bürklin-Wolf G.C. in the future.
White
2021 Hofgut Falkenstein Krettnacher Ober Schäfershaus Riesling Spätlese Trocken #18 "Lorenz Manni"
87 points
Maybe a refreshing summer drink, but besides acidity it doesn't have too much else going for it. And the acidity it does have is so extreme it feels like you're drinking pure citric acid.
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White
2021 Weingut Bianka & Daniel Schmitt Chardonnay Feminín
90 points
Creamy skincontact chardonnay. Has a wild flair to it that suggests spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts. Some tropical fruits and white flowers.
White
2020 Weingut Rings Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Großes Gewächs
92 points
Citrus, peach and pear. Quite juicy with some racy acidity. Complex saline finish.
White - Sparkling
2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut
97 points
Primarily citrus, with some beautiful mineral saltiness. Starting to develop some bready notes and a slight nuttiness, but still far from mature.
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White
2013 Wittmann Westhofener Kirchspiel Riesling Großes Gewächs
92 points
Broader than both the 2015 and 2017 Kirchspiels from Keller that we had earlier in the tasting. Hedonistic. Less of an intellectual exercise than the Kellers, but pure pleasure
White
2020 A. Christmann Gimmeldinger Meerspinne im Mandelgarten Riesling Großes Gewächs
93 points
Citrus, layered with some herbs and some chalky minerality, seems strange for such a young wine but I think there was something nutty also.
White
2012 Dr. Loosen Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Großes Gewächs Alte Reben Reserve
94 points
Rubber and petrol, didn't get those aromas too much today so this is quite a pleasant change of scenery. But also great structure and enough minerality and ripe fruit to balance things out. Very classic Riesling.
Red
1989 Château Chasse-Spleen
92 points
Decanted for sediment.
Very classic Bordeaux. Still plenty of fruit left, very youthful and fresh. Big, but smooth tannins. In a great spot right now, but no need to hurry.
Very classic Bordeaux. Still plenty of fruit left, very youthful and fresh. Big, but smooth tannins. In a great spot right now, but no need to hurry.
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White
2019 Weingut Ökonomierat Rebholz Siebeldinger Im Sonnenschein Ganz Horn Riesling Großes Gewächs
93 points
Intense, precise, good minerality, slight reduction. Lean and elegant, with great tension.
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White
2018 Peter Lauer Ayler Kupp Riesling Kabinett Faß 5 Auction
96 points
Far too young but already so great! Just fills the mouth with pure pleasure and has great lenght too. And then the price of these, a great Saar Kabinett at an even greater price.
Closing
If anyone who attended reads this, thank you all so much for attending, for you insights, and of course the generous sharing towards the end!