Lunch at Noizé

Tasted Friday, March 8, 2024 by SimonG with 57 views

Flight 1 (2 Notes)

Gougères

Flight 2 (1 Note)

Crispy sole fritters
Spicy pork belly

  • 1996 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 93 Points

    France, Champagne

    Mid straw. Not many bubbles, made slightly worse by a detergent-tainted glass. Gains more energy and aroma when decanted into a different glass. Nicely rich now, the sharp cut of its youth transformed to a vanilla crème pat richness of middle aged chardonnay. A mineral line with some tang. Stylistically this is essentially pettilant white burgundy — B de M Corton Charlemagne from a ripe vintage. Twelve years on from my last encounter, and obviously the wine has evolved, become richer and less vibrant, but maybe lost some of its energy too. ****

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Flight 3 (2 Notes)

Cured sea bass, rhubarb, citrus dressing and fish roe

  • 2001 Chateau Musar Blanc 93 Points

    Lebanon, Bekaa Valley

    Full gold. A touch of orange blossom on the nose when first opening with an unctuous texture. Three hours on this has tightened and calmed a little. Waxy and leggy. There’s a surprising lightness and line here with filigree. O peel it’s woven around it. Another wine I’ve not looked at for over a decade, and time has served it well, perhaps freshening it a little. A clear step up from 04 currently, and a more complete wine. ****

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  • 2004 Chateau Musar Blanc 90 Points

    Lebanon, Bekaa Valley

    Mid gold. A sense more oxidation on the nose. Some furniture polish too. Leaner and more linear with less obvious complexity cf the 01. ***1/2

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Flight 4 (3 Notes)

Rabbit and ham hock terrine

Flight 5 (2 Notes)

Pigeon and foie gras pithivier

  • 1996 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Dense, full garnet to cloudy mid ruby. Blackcurrant with some mocha. A touch of smoke and beef fat. Fine grained tannins and good acidity. Still quite young. It’s all there. ****

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  • 2001 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Riper and broader than the 96. Gentle mocha with a touch of blackcurrant leaf. Still quite young, showing well and consistently with a bottle from the same case a couple of years ago. Fresh with good acidity and fine tannins. ****

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Flight 6 (1 Note)

  • 2022 Les Horées Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Fichots 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru

    Mid purple to full vibrant ruby. Really sweet and confected strawberry fruit on the nose. Primary. Sweet dark red to blue fruit. Strawberry jam and clotted cream on warm scones. Primary but approachable and really quite drinkable, the ripe fruit balanced by decent acidity and low alcohol (12%), though hardly the last word in complexity, at least at this stage. Bare ****

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