Terroir of Champagne, Montagne de Reims

The second in a series of tastings offered by Hi-Times Wine Cellars that focus on regions of Champagne. Considering their large selection of Champagne for sale now with the upgraded cooler this is a great idea for some Champagne tastings by the store. George Pavlov put this together and didn't scrimp on the selections offering up some of my favorite labels. A good showing overall with some surprises and slight disappointments. My three favs would have to be the Egly-Ouriet, the Ander Clouet and the 01 Vilmart.

• NV Roger Coulon Champagne Premier Cru Brut Nature Esprit de Vrigny

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Nose is pure golden apples. Clean apple filled palate with tart acidity. Full mouth feel which was a surprise for this non-dose wine. Lacked some length.

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• NV Egly-Ouriet Champagne Premier Cru Les Vignes de Vrigny

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Nose of butter biscuits and stone fruits. Pretty and complex with lots of fresh strawberry and peach notes. This isn't deep or concentrated but makes up for it in expressiveness. I usually find the Egly-Ouriet wines a bit pricey for the quality but this was an obvious exception. Very good.

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• NV H. Billiot Fils Champagne Grand Cru Brut Réserve

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Nose of berries and nectarines. Pure and focused yet sweetish and tart. This showed big with intense ripeness around the edges. More nectarines but seems to be flat towards the finish and not quite flabby. I've noticed more ripeness the last couple go arounds with this bottling. Starting to wonder. I enjoyed this more as a hedonistic treat.

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• 2002 René-Henri Coutier Champagne Grand Cru Brut Millésimé

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Very tight nose that eventually lets some butter and tart apples loose. Drying palate with a somewhat big finish. This was either closed or just coming up short. Hoping for closed.

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• NV André Clouet Champagne Grande Réserve Brut

  France, Champagne

  The nose is like smelling a salad of berries. Big and pretty with a clean finish displaying great balance and density. Lots of berries on the palate as well. This was showing terrifically and represents a great value. Very good.

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• 2000 Camille Savès Champagne Grand Cru Brut Millésimé

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  This seemed tight overall but it did show lots of concentration and fruit with notes of peaches and berries peaking through. I'm betting on a brighter future for this one though.

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• NV Pehu Simonet Champagne Grand Cru Brut Sélection

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  This seems to be coming at you from two angles. There is some stony mineral expression next to some very ripe fruit. Grapey and ripe on the palate in a sweet tart character but a distinct mineral stony note. Possibly the large inclusion from 2006(70%) is the culprit?

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• NV Jean Lallement Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Réserve

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Complex nose showing lemon, saline, lightly toasted bread and Belgian beer spiciness. Pretty and complex palate. The fruit is big up front but the palate falls off at the finish. Though it seems structured poorly the complexity win me over on this one.

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• NV Hugues Godmé Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  This showed some very tart apple notes but was bland and simple ultimately. Disappointing for the producer.

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• 2001 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Coeur de Cuvée

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Spicy nose of ginger and cinnamon. Complex balanced palate with lots of acidity. I thought I had had this previously but that was the 2000 which I think is a better wine overall. Both are excellent though.

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