Dom Perignon Masterclass, with Richard Geoffroy

Part of the Decanter Magazine's 2012 Fine Wine Encounter in London
Presented by the ever great Richard Geoffroy, the DP Chef de Cave since 1990 and the architect of the Oenotheque Project.

1. The Targets of Dom Perignon Cuvee are Luminous Colour, Complexity,Precission and Intensity not Power
2. The essence of Dom Perignon is to maintain a presence, a radiance while remaining an inviting wine
3. An unparallel dedication to vintage
4. Age is not an excuse for lack of definition in a wine

Richard Geoffroy

All from Single Bottles. All served in Riedel's white wine glasses.

• 2003 Dom Pérignon Champagne 90 Points

  France, Champagne

  The year of extremes not just heat, to quote Richard Geoffroy. The colour is light golden yellow, glossy and has very few bubbles. Mild nose, light floral, apple. Rich on the fruit, ripe fruit, mineral but lacks the precision/sharpness we usually associate with DP. Also has a really bitter edge to it that makes it difficult to enjoy at this stage and very short on the finish. A bit disappointing to be honest. 90

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• 2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne 93 Points

  France, Champagne

  Light golden, glossy and youthful in colour. Lovely mild nose, with exotic fruit, apple notes and very light yeasty notes. The nose needs a bit of time to evolve in the glass. On the palate it is rich, ripe, light creamy. Beautifully balanced and is very intense and even at this young age to potential is visible. We would suggest one awaits a few years as this will just keep getting better and better. 93-94 for the moment but the sky is the limit as it ages.

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• 1996 Dom Pérignon Champagne Oenothèque 94 Points

  France, Champagne

  Bright, luminous light golden in colour. Quite intense nose which continues to evolve in the glass. Nose is starting to show age evolution, light toast, light yeasty notes, ripe fruit notes. On the palate it is vibrant, focussed yet with a silky texture. Never dries out. Very harmonious wine with good acidity and more mineral than fruity. Just about entering its drinking window and has a great future ahead of it and can last another 20-30years easily.94
  To quote RG, welcome to Dom Perignon!

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1990,1982 Oenotheques we served from Magnums and all 3 wines were served in Riedel Burgundy Glasses

• 2000 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé 91 Points

  France, Champagne

  Copper, pinky red, glossy and full of clarity . Light on the nose and according to Richard Geoffroy this is a very slow aging wine. Hints of red apples. On the palate you feel it is young and restrained and has a rounder character to its white siblings. Not very exciting at this stage. 91-92

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• 1990 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé Oenothèque 95 Points

  France, Champagne

  From Magnum and one needs to adjust from the slower aging caused by the Magnum effect according to RG.
  Caramel, pink colour and luminous like a proper DP. Fuller nose, full of complexity and richness and you cannot but keep going back and back. Stunning nose. On the palate it is very vibrant and dances on the palate. Mineral wine, and the length of this wine is like for ever. Still on the young side and with a great future. Solid 95 at this stage but judging by the 82 the followed the future will only bring higher marks for this wine.

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• 1982 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé Oenothèque 96 Points

  France, Champagne

  From Magnum and one needs to adjust from the slower aging caused by the Magnum effect according to RG.
  Orange/copper in colour with a dark caramel core. Such an inviting colour still so glossy and vibrant. The nose is intense, complex and full of character and the room echoed in “wow’s” as this was served. Light sweet fruit or even botrytis notes. On the palate it is round, soft with integrated acids, richness of fruit. Vibrant but not sharp. A spectacular wine. 96-97
  
  For Richard Geoffroey this wine is the greatest wine he has ever had and is the definition of the oenotheque project.

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What age? Both from Magnums and served in Riedel's white wine glasses

• 1990 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 96 Points

  France, Champagne

  From Magnum and one needs to adjust from the slower aging caused by the Magnum effect according to RG.
  Colour shows some age, but still a vibrant, glossy light yellow/gold. Nose is not as rich as expected ( compared with the non-oenotheque 90) more citrusy and floral and very youthful. On the palate it is sharp, focused, vibrant and very young, still a baby. So fresh. Nice richness to it full onbut ever so balanced and harmonious. Does not show its age at this stage. Lots of aging potential for this amazing wine. 96 ( Disgorged in 2006)

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• 1982 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 97 Points

  France, Champagne

  From Magnum and one needs to adjust from the slower aging caused by the Magnum effect according to RG.
  Much like the 1990 oenotheque, this has a youthful, luminous light golden yellow colour. Light yeasty notes on the nose, toast and needed a bit of time to evolve its rich character but some patience rewards with a full, rich nose. Focussed wine and does not feel 30yrs old. Nice minerality, very fresh and with lots of aging capacity. Simply an amazing wine. 97+ (disgorged in 2006)

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An unparallel experience. Both from Magnums and served in Riedel's white wine glasses.

• 1973 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 98 Points

  France, Champagne

  From Magnum and one needs to adjust from the slower aging caused by the Magnum effect according to RG.
  Finally a wine that shows some age on the colour front in our line up. Still though glossy and vibrant at ~40yrs of age. Nose shows evolution, rich, with yeasty , creamy notes, intense and complex an amazing aroma! On the palate as expected it is very balanced, fresh, vibrant and a wine of high definition ( to echo the words of RG). Ripe, rich feel to it, with depth and layered. Lovely minerality, light apple notes and a complexity to define the word. This is among our greatest wine experiences. 98-100 ( disgorged in 2007)

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• 1966 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Oenothèque 97 Points

  France, Champagne

  From Magnum and one needs to adjust from the slower aging caused by the Magnum effect according to RG.
  Among the very few magnums around and not commercially released in this format. Rich golden colour, shows its age but still maintains its luminous character of course! Intense on the nose, rich, yeasty, creamy notes with hints of floral, orange blossom. On the palate it is not a 46yr old wine and can rival the 2000 DP in freshness. Amazing longevity. Deep wine, layered and rich, full on complex. Mineral angle to it and so precise in its flavour. 97 (we believe this was disgorged in 2007)

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This is our second DP Masterclass and they are indeed among the greatest wine events we have attended. Seldom do we rate so many wines so highly in one event.
Interesting is the lack of mention of bubbles ( RG considers them a side effect) and the wines were not served in flutes.