Jurafest 2012, Day 3
E&R Wine Shop, Portland OR
Tasted Sunday, November 11, 2012 by David Paris (dbp) with 787 views
Introduction
After the incredible Bourdy decades tasting on Friday night, I was excited to dive into some of the younger wines of the Jura. Overall, my impression was that while many of these are enjoyable drinkers, these are generally not wines I prefer in their youth. I think all of them will be better with 5-10 years of age on them, based upon my experience tasting some older Jura wines. A fun event for sure, but these wines need to rest a bit! I love high acidity, intense wines, but these do tend to err on the side of even too intense for me, and I think with a little age they will become better balanced.
2011 Domaine Labet Poulsard 85 Points
France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
Very bright pink color. Bright aromas, with slight hints of funk, fruits, and soil. Very fresh smelling. The palate shows cherry soda and cough syrup types of flavors; nice and mild with tart acidity. Funky acids dial up on the finish, which feels a bit out of whack. Some bitter minerals are here too.
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2010 Tissot (Bénédicte et Stéphane / André et Mireille) Poulsard Arbois Vieilles Vignes 89 Points
France, Jura, Arbois
Wow is this funky. There's lots of brett on the nose, and really nothing beyond that is detectable. Much more forward fruit flavors on the palate, which is surprisingly bright and very nice after that funk filled nose. Totally unlike the nose on the palate. Good exuberance here, with lithe flavors, bright minerals and acid, primarily tasting of sweet tarts. Some funk and brett initially on the finish, but after that it's quite bright and enjoyable. More funky sweet tarts on the finish, and I quite like the lingering sensations on my palate.
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2009 Domaine Labet Poulsard Côtes du Jura Vieilles Vignes En Billat 88 Points
France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
Nice dusty aromas. Slightly funky, but good dirty strawberry aromas are the strongest thing here. The palate is soft and lean, with mild flavors, showing some strawberries that have been grated across some fir tree bark. Mild fine grained tannins are present. The finish shows an eruption of vibrant, yet lean acidity. Nice.
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2010 Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand Ploussard Arbois Pupillin 87 Points
France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
Wow, really funky aromas here. Huge amounts of unpleasant sulfur poured over something decaying. More fruit on the palate, which is tart and vibrant, with some soil undertones. Nice intensity of fruit and acidity. Big acid hit on the finish, which is primarily bright sour cherry, but light on the cherry (primarily just the sour). Intense and burns a bit at the end.
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2009 Philippe Bornard Trousseau Arbois Pupillin Le Ginglet 89 Points
France, Jura, Arbois Pupillin
Light amounts of brett, but also pleasing mushrooms and elegant tartness. Nice palate texture, which is pure and creamy, showing a coating notion with nice tart cranberry and raspberries. Again, some light brett noted on the palate. The finish shows a wallop of acidity and great tartness. Really takes over the mouth on the finish.
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2010 Domaine de L'Octavin Arbois Commendatore Les Corvées 86 Points
France, Jura, Arbois
Really nice balanced funk on the nose. Some really meaty mushrooms, mixed with dried pine needles and only mild sweet fruits. Exhuberant fruits on the palate, with a nice scabby band-aid (mmm delicious), mixed with nice light cherry fruit. The finish has an eruption of fruit at first, trailing into acid and funk. Lots of funk, with a bacterial notion taking over that's off-putting. Interesting wine, at least.
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2011 Michel Gahier Trousseau Arbois Le Clousot 89 Points
France, Jura, Arbois
The aromas are like bitter whole raw cacao beans, with some lively bright fruited flavors. Nice fruits on the palate, perhaps the fruitiest of this lineup. Tart and puckering, and really coats the mouth with its gritty sensation. Really puckering finish, which is bright. Nice. Really burns though, with intense acidity. Really tart and grippy. I'd love to have this in 20 years. Great balance, but a bit too intense for current consumption. Definitely one for the cellar.
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2010 Jean-François Ganevat Côtes du Jura Cuvée Julien 89 Points
France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
Nice earthy Pinot aromas. Very bright and lean, but at the same time certainly distinguishable as Pinot Noir. Some green herbal notion is there. The palate is bright but very thin. Incredibly lean, tart and soft in texture. Moderate acidity, but I'm really just struck by the lightness. Tart, soft and lean on the finish. Balanced, with nothing out of whack, but it's definitely light. Again, bet this will age impeccably, but for consumption today it doesn't offer much pleasure; just the pleasure of light structural balance that will turn into something quite nice. 89+
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NV Domaine Overnoy-Crinquand Ploussard Crémant du Jura 90 Points
France, Jura, Crémant du Jura
Nice delicious aromas. Quite sweetly fruited compared to what's been before it. Nice and zesty. Really nice palate flavors, showing lots of bright berry and some sweetness is felt. Lovely, really. The finish has some big acid attack, with good lingering mild fruit flavors here.
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NV Philippe Bornard Poulsard Vin de Table Français Tant-mieux 89 Points
France, Vin de Table Français
This one smells really funky... never had a sparkler smell like a funky natural wine like this does. Cool. More funk on the palate, but there's nice fruit here too. Really yummy actually, as it sits on the tongue it just gets fruitier and fruitier, like a mix of candied blueberries and raspberries. Funky berries on the finish. Tart. Nice flavors lingering. I love the funk in this sparkler.
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2007 Tissot (Bénédicte et Stéphane / André et Mireille) Traminer Arbois 90 Points
France, Jura, Arbois
Fairly mild aromas, showing tart lemons. There's some interesting aromas here that keep me going back for a few more sniffs before diving in, but I'm having a really hard time pinpointing it. Things are more exuberant on the palate, with a really thick texture... feels and tastes like a pear smoothy with citric acid mixed in. Quite nice. Eruption of apple and pear bitterness mixed with a mineral/powdered magnesium sensation. Yummy stuff, with a nice future ahead of it. 90+
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2007 Jacques Puffeney Chardonnay Arbois 90 Points
France, Jura, Arbois
Light and intense aromas, but not too much depth. Rich palate, with nice creamy texture... really nice intensity and depth. Good apple meets sour tangerine flavors. Yum. Tart, funky mushrooms and slightly, nearly stewed apple thing noted on the finish. Really nice and long finish, with quite a bit of intensity. I can still feel the full body this has long after swallowing. Yum.
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2007 Jean Bourdy Chardonnay Côtes du Jura 88 Points
France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
A different level and kind of richness and intensity on the aromas of this wine than the previous whites. There's some tart lemons and I get a bit of rubbing alcohol without the alcohol (that is, no sensation of alcohol is here, but it does smell like the stuff none the less). Kind of odd. The palate is rich and soft as it enters the mouth. Smooth and mild, coating in texture. Really pleasing with only mild intensity. Really nice palate texture and building acidic, but similar rubbing alcohol flavor. Tart and lean on the finish, with moderate flavors and intensity. The texture on the palate is really great, but this feels really closed at present. This should be a great vintage for Bourdy's blanc, but it's not really showing itself as such just yet. It'll be better in 100 years.
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2010 Jacques Puffeney Melon à Queue Rouge Arbois 72 Points
France, Jura, Arbois
Really funky, seemingly volatile acidity here. Spicy and off putting oxidative qualities here. Really funky palate, but also metallic and off putting. It's like a mix of tart apples and grated steel bits. Really bad flavor. Bitter finish, and again oxidative qualities with more metals mixed with apples. Really unpleasant.
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2007 Jean Bourdy Savagnin Côtes du Jura 90 Points
France, Jura, Côtes du Jura
Jean-François Bourdy mentioned that this is wine he makes from the barrels that aren't going to be good enough to put into his Chateau-Chalon. With less aging, this is still a great wine in its own right, offering very soft and quiet aromas, with only mild tartness. The palate gets more interesting, with a very coating richness and soft as velvet texture and mild acids. Still pretty round and quiet; very soft. The finish is tart and quite puckering. Very deep intensity here, with really great intensity of flavors. So tightly packed, but showing more than the '07 Cotes du Jura (Chardonnay).
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2004 Michel Gahier Arbois Vin Jaune 91 Points
France, Jura, Arbois
Nice intensity of aromas. Like a concentration of lemon zest and limestone salt all packed into a little ball. Some big intensity and some funk on the palate. Nice brightness and tartness, but it's that intensity that's so impressive. Big, tart, and puckering finish. Wow does the acid intensity ever dial up. Made me cough on my first swallow. Fantastic depth at the end, with crazy acidity. Really killer stuff on the finish, with amazing depth. Wish the whole wine was as good as the finish and I'd have given it a few more points.
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2004 Domaine Berthet Bondet Château-Chalon 84 Points
France, Jura, Château-Chalon
Really spicy and funky aromas. A bit too intense, with some oxidative funk and rubbing alcohol. Better palate, with a nice creamy intensity and tartness. There's a metallic notion though that's off putting and rather intense. The finish is funky and really intense with metallic minerality mixed with macerated berries. So intense with acidity but in an unpleasant, unbalanced way.
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NV Château d'Arlay Macvin du Jura Vin de liqueur macvin 91 Points
France, Jura, Macvin du Jura
Nice intense aromas: spice and herbs noted. Rich and creamy palate texture. Intense and funky. Really interesting and intense on the palate, with nice new, unique flavors. The finish is creamy, showing flavors of caramel. A great balance of intensity and softness. Delicious stuff.
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NV Jean Bourdy Macvin du Jura 84 Points
France, Jura, Macvin du Jura
Clear salmon color. This smells like wet paper. Insane and totally weird and different. There's also a fairly intense alcoholic notion to the nose that wasn't on the D'Arlay Macvin. The palate tastes like a highly floral Cognac (and for me, that's not a good thing). Mild acids are present, with a nice tartness. The finish is really interesting and intense, with good length and depth. The floral, Cognac tasting notion is really what I dislike about this one. Amazing that this is basically the base for the Galant des Abesses which is absolutely mind blowing.
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