Dry German Riesling

I finally made it to a tasting of the DC-based German Wine Society. The theme was dry rieslings, and we had a wide range of regions and styles.

• NV Loosen Bros. Riesling Dr. L Sparkling 78 Points

  Germany

  I'm usually quite a Loosen fan, but this was lacking. Aromas of green pear skins and white flowers. Pineapple flavors on the palate with some yellow apple, but overall a bit thin in its approach and a tin can-like bitterness on the finish. Tasted from two different bottles with similar results.

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• 2007 Weingut Heymann-Löwenstein Riesling Schieferterrassen 90 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Aromas of peach, lime, orange blossom and yellow apple, with time faint notes of herbs and spices. Lush apple and pear fruit on the palate with superb acid. Hints of oil and beeswax show the age. This wine is only slightly sweet, but the mineral and acid make it taste bone dry. If I had other bottles, I'd be wary of aging them for more than a year or so. That said, I really liked this, as I do all Heymann-Löwenstein wines.

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• 2011 Franzen Riesling Der Sommer war sehr groß 87 Points

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Pale lemon color with a slight spritz in the glass. Aromas of sweet peach, honey and white flowers. For a dry riesling tasting, this one showed a bit more richness. High acid on the palate, rushing lime and lemon peel, backed up by bracing minerals and a tart, quinine-laced finish.

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• 2009 Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan Riesling Auf der Mauer 88 Points

  Germany, Pfalz

  Bright and lively aromatics: slate, lime, white tea, salt. Very tangy on the palate with lots of minerals. The fruit is lean and tends toward grapefruit rind and green apple peel. Flavors of salt and crushed rocks linger onto the finish. A bold, dry riesling.

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• 2008 Koehler-Ruprecht Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Kabinett trocken 83 Points

  Germany, Pfalz

  Very reticent on the nose, and it didn't open up much with time. Aromas of lemon, lanolin and white tea. The palate is soft, quite weak actually. The green melon flavors taste musky and old. A bit of apricot and nut flavors came out, but there's also this strange green tree bark flavor. It's not well-spoken enough to be intellectually stimulating.

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• 2011 Dönnhoff Riesling Trocken 88 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Even at the entry level Dönnhoff gets it done. Smoky slate, minerals and grapefruit on the nose. High acid on the palate, a bit of a waxy mouthfeel, with lots of crushed rock dust and smoke. Flavors of bitter lemon and green melon come together on the tart finish.

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• 2011 Weingut Fogt Riesling Siefersheimer Goldenes Horn Spätlese Trocken 89 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  Like a perfume shop on the nose with white flowers and honeysuckle, also an aroma that reminds me of cucumber water and lemon rind. Purity of acid, minerals and fruit on the palate. The flavors of green apple, white peach and zested lime taste richer than some of the prior wines in the tasting. Finish is both tart and full with a note of grapefruit. Delicious young.

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• 2011 Wagner-Stempel Siefersheimer Riesling Vom Porphyr Trocken 91 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  Lovely aromatic display of apricot, tart lemon, crushed rock and smoke. The palate is brisk and tart with mouth-puckering acid. Green melon and pineapple rind flavors mix with dense minerals and the smoke that wafts up when you smash two rocks together. The intensity of the sour apple and lemon is matched only by the minerality, which lingers long onto the finish. Very powerful stuff that might taste better in a year or so, even though I tend to enjoy drinking dry rieslings young.

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• 2009 Weingut Seehof Westhofener Steingrube Riesling Trocken 89 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  On the nose: yellow apple, lemon zinger tea, lime peel and crushed rocks. Plump on the palate, with high acid. The flavors of peach skin, honey, wax and smoke are complex and focused. I pick up some margarita salt and herb notes on the finish.

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• 2006 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs 93 Points

  Germany, Rheinhessen

  Beautifully aromatic: white flowers, pear blossom, slate, intense minerals, salt and lime. Bracing and intense on the palate, with loads of acid and minerals, but the nutty, orange peel, clove and slate flavors give it enough body and richness to make it balanced. Lanolin and slate linger long on the finish. I'm not a huge fan of Großes Gewächs wines, but this is superb. Even though I like to drink GG wines young, this could last for a very long time.

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• 2010 Dönnhoff Hermannshöhle Riesling Großes Gewächs 95 Points

  Germany, Nahe

  Wow, what a treat. Endlessly floral on the nose with grapefruit, minerals and lime. Searing acid, so 2010, but this dry wine maintains enough richness and power to balance out against the acidity. Flavors of grapefruit, honeysuckle, green pear, minerals, crushed rocks. So much complexity and a finish that doesn't quit. One of my favorite Großes Gewächs so far.

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