Ultimo lunch time tasting

Ultimo very, very kindly do a tasting every Saturday and, when I can, I get along. Nice selection of Burgundies laid on today including some very interesting vintage comparisons. Dragged poor Ben along.

• 2011 La Chablisienne Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Greengages, herbaceous with clove notes over slight lemon and sweet spice. Green orchard fruit that dissipates quickly revealing slight wet stone mineral notes. It's a bit sour and quite short.

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• 2010 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Marconnets

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  cherry, slight medicinal notes, cream, slight spice. In the mouth cherry over strawberries, juicy and spicy. Long but with slight bitterness on the finish and medium minus intensity non-intrusive tannin. Nice

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• 2005 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Marconnets

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

  Leather, earth notes and very slight oxidised hints intruding over muted red fruit. On the palate the wine has flavours of leather, earth, spice with considerable tannic grip - quite a weighty structure and not much fruit that I can see. Hmm. Flawed bottle or just shut down?

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• 2008 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  perfumed red fruit tending to black fruit with time - quite rich in fact - and some toast notes. In the mouth there is slight spice and earth note and an almost coffeeness. This is accompanied by chalky tannin. Hmm.

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• 2009 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  red berry, slight herbs and clove. Also I detect an oyster shell sensation. IN the mouth the wine has juicy red berries and spice. Weight and structure - it's quite four square- and slight bitterness begins to exhibit itself on the long finish. Nice

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• 2010 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

  Toasty oak, spice, sour crushed strawberries. On the palate the wine has tight tannin, fresh red fruit but the tannin is the boss at the moment. Young, bit of a puppy. Needs time. Nice.

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There are few things as nice as tasting 1er Cru Burgundy for nothing...domaine de l'or wines are not familiar to me so it was a pleasure to learn about them. I was a bit surprised about how closed down the 2005 Bouchard Marconnets was...