The Godfather Turns Sixty: Go Big or Go Home - Rousseau, Margaux, Lynch, a Trio '02 Champagnes and More!

La Belle Vie, Mpls
Tasted Thursday, August 13, 2015 by rocknroller with 844 views

Introduction

Ten of us gathered for the most auspicious of occasions; the Godfather of the wine group turns sixty. What a night! Anticipated by all for a good 2 months, this did not disappoint! The wine line up was most impressive, offering a stellar group of Champagnes, White Burgs, Red burgs and Bordeaux. Food was paired and coursed through the evening.

Flight 1 - Champagne Flight 1 (2 Notes)

  • 2002 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 94 Points

    France, Champagne

    Light gold color. Drank a 70ml pour over an hour. Consistent with previous bottles, typical Comtes finesse and elegance, pear, soft, plush texture, lemon panna cotta, toast, brioche, cashew. Just a bit less energy behind the slightly aged bubbles, but very stylish as one would expect. Lots of minerality and a clean lengthy finish.

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  • 2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne 94 Points

    France, Champagne

    Light gold color. Drank a 70ml pour over an hour. Quite interesting in that this didn't seem to carry the same weight that I typically expect from Dom or this vintage. This seemed like it was in a somewhat different place, more weight came on vs the Comtes eventually, but still quite suave and singing with a brighter more citrus driven fruit profile tonight; lime, lemon, grapefruit, kiwi, and something a tad more exotic on the backend. This too was nicely toasted, fuller body, but not heavy, with good acid, and mineral density, yeast, more of that dry extract that leaves you on the finish with great length. Hard to pick a winner between the '02 Dom and the '02 Comte, but I think i favor the elegance of the Comte by a hair. Quite happy to drink either.

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Flight 2 - Champagne Flight 2 (2 Notes)

  • 2002 Ruinart Champagne Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 95 Points

    France, Champagne

    light gold color. Drank a 70ml pour over an hour. Well, for me this was it tonight, it captured the energy and vibrancy while still being sophisticated and elegant. My favorite in the the trio of Ruinart, Dom, and Comte. totally a wow wine with a gorgeous nose of tangerine, citrus zest, orange cream soda, mineral and a strong floral component. The palate has depth and intensity with nice yeast, tangerine, meyer lemon, great crisp acid and a vibrant long finish. I think this shows more youth than either the Comte or the Dom,; so glad there are more of these. Wow again, 95+pts.

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  • 2005 Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons 91 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    Light gold color. 70ml pour over an hour. This was just a bit awkward after the trio of '02's; showing more of citrus profile with lots of chalky minerality and yeast, apple skin, tart apple, and good length., but not as refined. Needs a couple years to hopefully fully sort out. 91+pts.

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Flight 3 - White Burgs (2 Notes)

  • 2007 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Vireuils 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    Light gold color. PNP, drank 70ml pour over 45 minutes. This is so nicely toasted on the nose and palate, smoke, full bodied, round, lovely, lemon, lighter than the '09 LeFlaive and maybe less depth in the mid palate, lots of acidity, lemon, citrus, sour apple, good length, quite good overall.

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  • 2009 Domaine Leflaive Meursault 1er Cru Sous le Dos d'Âne 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    Light gold color. 70ml pour over an hour. This too was quite toasty on the nose and palate, a bit of matchstick character, hazelnut, a touch of earth and funk, lemon, orange peel on the nose and palate; long and with great personality and focus. 92+pts.

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Flight 4 - Rousseau Flight (2 Notes)

  • 2001 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

    Medium red color with subtle lightening on the margin. PNP, drank a 70+ml pour over 2 hours. Ooh la la, this was singing from the start. I loved the spectacular nose with a mix of savory, orange, orange peel, cherry, lacquer, dried earth and as this evolves a burst of pure red berry fruits. The palate offers up a mix of red fruits, deep earth, mineral, spice and a savory lacquer like mid palate with definition and mountain like peaks; well integrated tannins and mind boggling length. Fantastic and showing more for me than the Chambertin tonight. What a delight and as great as this is, still has so far to grow. Thanks Craig! 95+pts.

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  • 2001 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru

    Medium red color with thinning on the margins, lighter than the Beze. 70ml pour over 2 hours. This bottle was more restrained than a bottle a couple months ago, tighter and not wanting to share as much, still showing the Grand Cru depth on the palate. The nose shows dried forest floor, mushroom, floral, fennel seed, dried spices. The palate is medium bodied, but deep and intense with layered fruit and a dense mineral base, exotic spice, vibrant, black cherry, and well integrated tannins. Really, really good, just drinking younger and more restrained tonight in comparison to the Beze and a previous bottle. Seems to beg for more time.

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Flight 5 - Older Red Burgs Flight (2 Notes)

  • 1988 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    DArk red color. PNP, drank a 70ml pour over an hour. Man, what a pretty nose from the start, powdered cherry, cherry sweet tart, leather, raspberry, dried flowers, spices. The palate is quite refined, ready, spices, red fruits, great structure, meat and bone meal, long and fully integrated tannins. Ready and willing...as am I. 93+ to 94pts.

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  • 1990 Maurice Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Very dark red color. PNP, 70ml pour over an hour plus. Just a bit of funk to start things out, dried cherry, lots of underbrush, and wet stone minerality on the nose. The palate screams minerality and tastes like you're licking a giant boulder, dark cherry, tart, olive tapenade, savory, dense and a bit chewy with tart fruits and fine grained tannins. 91+ to 92pts.

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Flight 6 - Margaux and Lopez Flight (2 Notes)

  • 1991 R. López de Heredia Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Bosconia Flawed

    Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja

    Sad; corked, hints of what lurked.

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  • 1985 Château Margaux 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    VEry dark red/purple color, subtle 3mm margin. Decanted for about 40 minutes tableside. 70+ml pour aver 90 minutes plus. I've said it before, and I'm pretty sure I'll say it again, Margaux is like sex in a glass. It just comes over you in waves and hits you in all the right spots, reverberating on and on. This has such a lovely bouquet, ready to go, yet could have taken even more air. Holy crap, what a nose, wow, an ethereal mix of damp and dry earthy forest floor, a mix of red and black fruits, violets, perfumed,. The palate is just gorgeous, young at 30 years but offering itself so freely for us to appreciate. The fruit is dark and ripe, layers of cassis and mulberry, but so sleek, supple, and well integrated into the minerally, spiced, chocolate back end. Long, so long... I wish it would never end. Thanks so much Brad for sharing this beauty.

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Flight 7 - Bordeaux Flight (2 Notes)

  • 1989 Château Lynch-Bages 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Very dark red/purple color. Decanted for about 7.5hrs, drank a 70ml pour over 90 minutes. I won't try to sugar coat this....this is one great wine. I could not stop sniffing the glorious perfume of fruit that wafts forth from the glass. What incredible purity to the fruit on the nose, a high toned mix of black and blue fruits, amazing blueberry, boysenberry, huckleberry, and creme de cassis along with graphite, and sweet tannins. The palate almost makes you want to cry, the purity is again impressive, so pretty, silky doesn't do it justice, seamless and balanced, sexy. My WOTN by a hair over the '85 Margaux and '01 Rousseau Clos de Beze.

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  • 1990 Château Lagrange (St. Julien) 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Very dark red color. Slow-O for 3 hours, then double decanted for 30 minutes. Drank 70+ml pour over 90 minutes. This just kept opening more and more over the 90 minutes, gaining finesse and depth. the nose is crazy perfumed, potpourri, sandalwood, leather, cassis, red berries and later blue fruits emerge. The palate is feminine and velvety, medium-full bodied, with a mix of boysenberry, cassis, and raspberry fruit on top of a mineral driven core and plenty of pencil lead woven into the fine grained tannins. This finishes long and lifted. 94+ to 95pts.

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Flight 8 - 2009 Red Burgs Flight (3 Notes)

  • 2009 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 89 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

    Very dark red color. PNP, followed a 70ml pour over 3 hours. Starts off tight on the nose; dank, mineral, green, with sour dark red fruits, a bit of wood, and dried leaves. The palate is dark and full, deep red cherry, black raspberry, dry earth, stems and a green streak that loosens and seems to resolve much later, tar, young.

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  • 2009 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Saint Georges 94 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    Dark red color. PNP, drank a 70ml pour over 3 hours. I took a bit of this home and tried again...oh, man was this glorious. Showing the vintage in spades, incredible perfume of ripe red berry fruits, bright roses and spices on the nose. The palate is pure and focused with the fruit being ripe and perfect at center stage and the minerals dancing around the edges and showing their grip on the finish. Tannins are fine and already playful. The future is quite promising to say the least. 93pts initially and several hours later, 94pts.

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  • 2009 Domaine Dublère Charmes-Chambertin 91 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

    Dark red color. PNP, 70ml pour over 2hr plus. Just a bit reduced initially, but blows off and shows nice red currants, sour cherry. Tart and sour red fruits, some earthy notes on the palate, firm but approachable tannins and a bit of sauvage quality. 91+pts.

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Flight 9 - Dessert Wines (2 Notes)

  • 2011 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 91 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Light gold color. Small pour from 375ml. I'll echo Chablis28's comments in general. This was very good, but unfortunately suffered by comparison. Standing alone this shows well with some tropical fruits, peach, pineapple, and has ok acidity, but next to the Loosen '10 ETA, it pales a bit. Though I would say that is more of a credit to the Loosen than a slight to the Prum.

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  • 2010 Dr. Loosen Erdener Treppchen Riesling Auslese 94 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Light gold color. From 375, small pour. Silly good, crazy tropical fruits with fusil, and citrus that builds on the mineral core. Sweet but well balanced. Very vibrant on the palate. A real winner. 93+to 94pts.

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Closing

It truly was an embarrassment of riches on this night, and there were a number of wines that stood out even beyond the baseline of greatness that it was. The '02 Champagnes all rocked my world, both the '01 Rousseau Chambertin and Beze were splendid, as was the '88 Lafarge, and then there was the trio of Bordeaux wines that all were outstanding with the '89 Lynch and '85 Margaux getting my nods just ahead of the '90 Lagrange. Thanks to everyone for sharing such fantastic wines along with your friendship. This was a night that will be long remembered.

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