4th Saturday Group: Global Cabernet Sauvignon

For the July tasting we set a theme of wines labeled cabernet sauvignon from anywhere. It was nice to get a few from outside of California in the line up.

A Nonblind bubbly to start the evening. The seal on the cork was extremely tight so I was shocked that this showed so poorly. Oh well, not every bottle is going to be a stunner.

• NV Jean Lallement Champagne Grand Cru Brut 84 Points

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  Nonblind. Disgorged April 21, 2009. Whereas my last bottle of this same disgorgement was very nice, this one was quite advanced, despite a perfectly sound cork and youthful pale color. A touch of apple on the nose and palate, but a pronounced sherry overtone dominates. A bit better on the palate, with a bit more of the fruit coming through.

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A couple of double blind warm ups for the group. I assumed no one would identify the Swan correctly, but I thought they would enjoy it and have a chance to try something unique...I was correct on both counts.

• 2011 Robert Mondavi Winery Fumé Blanc 90 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Oakville

  Light color. Grassy, bordering on jalapeno, along with a citrusy melon quality. Nice fruit on the palate, with plenty of acidity. A couple of guesses of albarino, others sauv blanc; well-received by the group.

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• 2014 Joseph Swan Vineyards Grenache Blanc Cuvée Orange Catie's Corner Vineyard 89 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  A bit darker in color, looks like an old chard, and that played on the group's mind. Melon, citrus and floral elements, with a sweetness in the bouquet that doesn't come through as sweetness on the palate. Flavors of unripe peach and melon with nice balancing acidity. No guesses from the group, though this was also received well.

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• 2004 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor 92 Points

  Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto

  Blind. Aromas of red berry, herbs and earth. Medium-bodied with soft tannins and flavors of red fruit, plum, herbs and iron. Finishes with good length. 92-93 pts.
  
  Double decanted about two hours before the flight was poured. In a nice place with a bit of air, so I'll put the drinking window at now-2028.

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• 2004 Meander Cabernet Sauvignon 90 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Double blind. Cassis and dark fruit aromas. Nice fruit on the palate; softened tannins. Guessed 2006 Sonoma cab sauv.

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• 1991 Newton Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Double blind. A bit cloudy, bricking - definitely older. Aromas of red fruit and iron. Fully-resolved tannins; red plum, lavender and cedar flavors. Lingering finish. Dominus-like. Guessed old-school Napa from '92/'93. A real treat, 93-94 pts.

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• 1992 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 707 88 Points

  Australia, South Australia

  Double blind. Notes of green pepper over dark fruit. Showing some age in the color. A bit thinner than I would like on the palate, but there's some nice dark fruit notes there. Enjoyable, if a bit past prime. The green pepper notes had me thinking this was CA, but from a cool year such as '98.

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• 2013 Pascual Toso Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Barrancas Vineyards 87 Points

  Argentina, Mendoza

  Double blind. A bit understated and soft- not giving up a whole lot. Black cherry and cassis follow through on the palate. Plum and chocolate notes emerge later on. Nice, but a bit short on the finish.

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• 2011 Fontanella Family Wines Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder 88 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Mt. Veeder

  Double blind. Vanilla, brown sugar and dark fruit aromas, and a good bit of alcohol too...this is somewhat "hot." Thick and syrupy on the palate, with flavors of raspberry jam and a lot of wood in the finish. Adds a blue fruit quality the longer it sits. Others enjoyed this more than Domino and I. Good for the style, but not a style we enjoy all that often. Easy to pick out as Napa.

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• 2011 Scarlett Wines Cabernet Sauvignon 88 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Rutherford

  Double blind. Raspberry and chocolate aromas immediately lead one to Napa. The palate is thick and syrupy, with vanilla and black fruit tones. Medium finish. Again, good for the style, but not something I seek out on a regular basis. 88+ pts.

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• 2005 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor 90 Points

  Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto

  Blind. Notes of herbs and dark fruit with a hint of the citrusy grapefruit thing common in this wine when young. Made it easy to pick out as our wine. Medium tannins with flavors of dark fruit and eucalyptus. Needs a couple of years yet.

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• 2015 Two Hands Cabernet Sauvignon Sexy Beast 91 Points

  Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale

  Double blind. Notes of dark fruit, chocolate, vanilla and oak. Full-bodied and firm, with flavors of cassis and blackberry syrup. though it's thick and sweet, there's a sense of balance. Good for the style. Guessed Napa.

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• 2013 Post Parade Cabernet Sauvignon 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Double blind. Notes of blue and black fruit, iron and chocolate. Dark fruit on the palate with firm tannins. A big wine, but nicely balanced. Long finish.

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• 2009 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Vintner Select 86 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Double blind. Aromas of brown sugar and cassis. On the palate this is quite ripe, bordering on prune and raisin. Can't say I am surprised to see a Pride unveiled...there's a reason we stopped buying these wines- they just aren't made in a style we enjoy all that often.

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• 2015 Quilt Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Double blind. Aromas of dark fruit, cassis, vanilla and perfume- I love the perfumed note here. Lush dark fruit on the palate, quite rich, some chocolate and oak spice. Nice balance. A very good rich Napa cab sauv.

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• 2010 Lewis Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Hillstone Vineyard 93 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Double blind. Aromas of dark fruit, fresh mint, cassis and sweet floral perfume. Firm tannins are fine-grained and have a sweet edge. Dark fruit and vanilla with a long finish. A powerful wine, but nicely balanced. Easy to pick out as Napa.

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• 2012 Brion Cabernet Sauvignon Monte Rosso

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Moon Mountain District

  Double blind. Aromas of chocolate and dark fruit. Cassis on the palate. Develops a meaty quality that I find very interesting/unique among the many wines in tonight's line up. Excellent.

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Nonblind with an herb-marinated flank steak and a lentil salad. For dessert we enjoyed an apricot frangipane tart from the Cocoa Bean and a sacher torte from Dinkel's. Yum.

• 2013 Louis Barruol Côte-Rôtie La Boisselée 89 Points

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

  Opens with a dominant tapenade note, with dark fruit underneath. Peppery dark fruit on the palate with a medium+ finish. I like this, but it doesn't taste like Cote Rotie to me; perhaps age will bring out some bacon fat and white pepper?

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• 2015 Albert Morot Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Bataillère Aux Vergelesses 90 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru

  Popped and poured during dinner following the tasting. Nice complexity at this young stage. Cherry, tea and earth. Picks up spice and leather notes with air. Cherry and mineral on the palate. Balanced; finishes with good length. Good value for Burgundy and worth seeking out. 90 for me, 92+ for Domino.

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• 2015 Peter Michael Pinot Noir Le Moulin Rouge

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Lucia Highlands

  These are good wines, but man they rarely taste like pinot to me. Chocolate and spice notes with ripe dark fruit underneath. I retasted this a couple of hours later as we were tidying up after the tasting, and it has definitely opened up some and is starting to actually show some pinot character- rhubarb and cherry; picks up a holiday spice quality in the finish. Domino still doesn't care for it, so we'll stick to the cab-based blends and whites they make.

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• 1991 Cafaro Cabernet Sauvignon 92 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  I've had this bottle standing up for a couple of years and so I used this as a chance to show off another example of the fine '91 vintage and how magical wine can be with age. Popped and poured, this was great right from the start- I immediately had some remorse that I didn't save this for a '91 horizontal, but oh well. Cherry, currant and herb aromas with a subtle tobacco undertone. Flavors of red fruit, plum and leather. Long finish. In a beautiful place right now. 92-93+ pts.

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• 2005 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  From 750ml. Pineapple and orange notes. Nice texture with flavors of tropical fruit, ripe stone fruit and citrus with balancing acidity. Finishes with good length. Getting better as it ages.

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