Jerry is leaving us

As we prepare to say goodbye to yet another leaving coworker we gather for an Italian feast and layout a suitably Italian array of vino to drown our sorrows and wash down our pasta.

Here we pitted three fine wines of varying degrees of modernity against each other for a brief, introductory lesson on the basics of perfectly aged Chianti which offers great bang for the buck and is very possibly the worlds greatest simple food wine.

• 1997 San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico Riserva 86 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

  Not particular intense on the nose, in fact too gentle with it's super subtle notes of cherry fruit with bits of oak and earth. Good depth on the palate with admirable richness of texture retaining some toughness with lots of dark yet indistinct fruit joined by some spice notes and drying tannins. The fruit is accented with a real rich almond note leads to a short, diffuse finish. Drink em up.

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• 1997 Podere il Palazzino Chianti Classico Grosso Sanese 89 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

  Really pretty and effusive nose immediately jumps from the glass with great freshness and classic notes of barnyard, leather, and spice notes. In the mouth this is rich and soft with superb succulent fruit, bowl of red cherry and raspberry, the flavors are simple and remain true to fruit but the wine is refreshing and delicious with good follow through to the medium long finish that echoes with spiced berry notes. All one could want from a Chianti Classico.

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• 1997 Fattoria Viticcio Chianti Classico Riserva Lucius 88 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG

  Fuller more powerful nose with some notes of clay and very well integrated oak accenting the dark, matte fruit. In the mouth one finds impressive depth and richness backed up by dark fruits and wonderful inner mouth florality. While the acidity is solid this is downright plush with just a hint of drying tannins on the finish which also has a tinge of Loire Valley Cabernet quality to it. The fruit here is a bit plummy with a roasted edge. This is successful but note particularly Chianti like. Holding well drink 2008-2011

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Moving on a look at two of the finest non-Chianti Chaintis. Vino da Tavola or IGT there are still all about Sangiovese and a great match up of classic vs. modern interpretations of the grape with no loser.

• 1995 Montevertine Il Sodaccio 91 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  From Magnum this is open and giving apon pouring with great animale notes adding complexity to the earth, roasted raspberry, clean leather and old baking spice notes that dominate the nose. With air intriguing notes of iron and clay emerge. This has entered it's drinking window with soft yet intact acidity and layered, tender tannins. The fruit has a touch of candied ripeness yet offers a faint herbal note up front which gains through the midpalate leading toward a blond tobacco note on the finish. This remains elegant and balanced with a long finish. Restrained and subtle and in need of more attention than it got tonight. Drink through 2016

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• 1997 Rocca di Montegrossi Geremia Toscana IGT 91 Points

  Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT

  From magnum. Now here is another expression of Sangiovese, one that is intense and powerful with a great array of aromatics that work from earth to violet, almond to cedar and oak, roasted herb and blackberry pie, a fine combination of wood and fruit. As with the nose this presents a rich brawny impression in the mouth packed with flavor yet not out of balance or contrived. In fact this retains a touch of elegance and delivers lots of dark cherry and minerally flecked earthen notes in the mouth without becoming overbearing. The tannins are very fine and the acidity well integrated, this is still youthful and delicious with positive development to come. Too bad this is no more. Drink 2010-2020

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What more can we add?

• 1982 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia 88 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From magnum. The aromatics here are of a fully mature wine with typical notes of beef broth, dried porcini, parchement and light , fading indian spice. There is a nuance of menthiol but in sum total the nose really recalls dried onion soup mix. In the mouth the wine is less aged with a beautiful feel with very bright acidity and resolving tannins supporting sour cherry fruit that has lovely notes of pipe tobacco and medicinal herbs adding to the juicy midpalate. The line reveals an austere finish rich in soil tones and turns more tertiary on the long finish which shows a touch of heat as well. Not without appeal if not particualr complete this should be drunk up over the next 10 years.

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• 1997 Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe 92 Points

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  From magnum. Wow this explodes from the glass with tons of fruit, a compte of pear, strawberry and cherry greatly enhanced with notes of nettle, smoke, and limestone rich earth. Big and rich entry with a touch of pruniness up front that leads to a round, ripe midpalate full of dark plum tinged fruit. Remains rich and layered with spice and smoke notes lifted apon bright acidity and ripe tannins. The finish shows that the wine could use some time to smooth out some of the roughness as the plush and chewy midpalate does turn a touch drying and lean on the finish. Pretty classicly styled and due to improve. Drink 2012-2025

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I'ld been waiting for the right occaision to pop this and it was better than I remembered it. I wish I had more and also wish this was still produced, even though it might be seen as just another Cab it is so much more and blows away Bordeaux and Cali cabs that play at this price point. Karanar and Sgarzon, oh where have you gone? My lament of the day.

• 1993 Foradori Trentino Karanar 93 Points

  Italy, Trentino-Alto Adige, Trentino

  From Magnum, a hand carry back from the Winery. This offers up a shiny nose of olive and plum tinged with smoke and mineral notes. There is some integrated oak and a fleshy, leathery tone that yields to a red flower, red berry core with notes of black pepper and peapod creeping in around the edges. Really unique and interesting nose. This is plush and rich in the mouth with a seamless, plush quality to the dense blackberry and olive fruit that finishes with black mineral and smoke notes. This is just outstanding and compelling, predomiantly Cab Sauv with some Syrah and Petit Verdot added this just works. Another wine that is no more and another loss for us. I wish I had more of this

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The answer simply is no.

• 1996 Arnaldo-Caprai Montefalco Sagrantino 87 Points

  Italy, Umbria, Montefalco, Montefalco Sagrantino

  This was tight and tough offering up some evolved scents of dusty, old books and dried funghi on the nose that was joined by hints of mint and braised beef. With a big, rich entry this offers a very tannic medium bodied feel with solid blueberry fruit behind the softening tannins. The quality of the fruit is almost Australian with a noticable vanilla top note. The finish offers some contrasting minerality but remains tough and ruggged. This is still painfully young. Drink 2002-2020

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We really should have had a cheese course with these wines. they all showed very well and each offered a distinct face of amarone that was satisfying. Too much wine for me meant these got short shrift but the showed their class none-the-less.

• 1995 Le Ragose Amarone della Valpolicella 90 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella

  Figs and spice great the nose with lovely complexity to the evolving aromatics of darkly, smoky fruit with a meaty core. Big and full of glycerin up front this fills the mouth with dark berry flavors and nuances of shaved bittersweet cocoa and underbrush. Lovely, vinous, and restrained for Amarone. Classy and drinking well now - 2014

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• 1995 Masi Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Campolongo di Torbe 94 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  Much cooler and more focused than the Le Ragose with rich clay notes to the layered dried red fruits on the nose. In the mouth this offeres insane integration with a lush feel and near perfect balance though this remains packed with soft tannins that peak out a bit on the finish there is no heat and while the flavors show a touch less intensity than I would like there is no denying the textural appeal here and with the flavors leaning towards the fresh, red end of the spectrum this works well on the dinner table. Love the quality of the fruit with it's subtle bitter note just barely rising above the sweetness of the fruit. A fabulous bottle of Amarone for drinking now and over the next 10 years.

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• 1988 Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 91 Points

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

  This shows wonderful development in contrast to the younger Amarone. Full of funghi with leafy, compsty nuances that build on the agelica root spiciness. Hints of cigarette tobacco and powdered sugar add depth. This is still big and rich in the mouth with excellent balance, full of red fruits and a hint of apply sweetness across the midpalate and leading to a clean, long finish. Drink 2008-2016

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And with that I took my leave, disappointed that my injured body has yet to overcome the stress of my recent accident leaving me more affected by the alcohol and with less focus than I would have liked but this was afterall about wishing Jerry a farewell and not about me.