Bordeaux 2018 I

Tasted Thursday, May 9, 2019 by Cailles with 680 views

Introduction

Merchant Daniel Gazzar organized a barrel tasting with many winemakers present.

Flight 1 (11 Notes)

  • 2018 Château La Conseillante 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    A first look at the 2018 vintage at a merchant tasting in Zurich with 11 red wines tasted. It might be quite difficult to judge the wines (I don't have 30 years barrel tasting experience) but some relative conclusions still can be made: 1) the best wines are as soft and elegant as the best 2016s (Figeac, Conseillante, Carmes HB, Rauzan Segla); 2) The aromatic complexity and precision of some wines is very exciting (Calon Segur, Figeac, Carmes HB), 3) There are some wines which cannot mask the high(er) alcohol levels (Pavie Maquin, Calon Segur, Leoville Poyferre). Overall, I still think that 2016 will ultimately be the better vintage thanks to lower alcohol levels and a cooler, purer fruit. On the other hand, I see 2018 a tad above 2015.

    TN: This 2018 was very similar to the 2016 I had recently with its sweet, fresh fruit aromas of cherries, rose hip, some blueberries. Only hints of minerality shine through the bouquet of fruit and some floral aromas at this stage. The star here are the tannins, which are so soft and together with the perfectly-mesaured acidity give the wine an airy, weightless quality. Only Rauzan Segla and Figeac had a comparable sense of weightlessness today. This is a charmer and will drink well early which is just another argument to buy a few bottles.

    I see this wine somewhere in the 94 to 98 point range.

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  • 2018 Château Figeac 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    A first look at the 2018 vintage at a merchant tasting in Zurich with 11 red wines tasted. It might be quite difficult to judge the wines (I don't have 30 years barrel tasting experience) but some relative conclusions still can be made: 1) the best wines are as soft and elegant as the best 2016s (Figeac, Conseillante, Carmes HB, Rauzan Segla); 2) The aromatic complexity and precision of some wines is very exciting (Calon Segur, Figeac, Carmes HB), 3) There are some wines which cannot mask the high(er) alcohol levels (Pavie Maquin, Calon Segur, Leoville Poyferre). Overall, I still think that 2016 will ultimately be the better vintage thanks to lower alcohol levels and a cooler, purer fruit. On the other hand, I see 2018 a tad above 2015.

    TN: One of the best wines of the day. The star is the weightless structure with ultra-fine tannins, a perfectly-integrated acidity, a great texture and weight, dense but not heavy. From amoratic perspective this is already interesting showing different layers with blue, black and hints of red fruit, some cola scents, some cedar notes and a tad minerality. Good length and excellent balance. This is a winner.

    I see this wine somewhere in the 95 to 99 point range.

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  • 2018 Château Pavie Macquin 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    A first look at the 2018 vintage at a merchant tasting in Zurich with 11 red wines tasted. It might be quite difficult to judge the wines (I don't have 30 years barrel tasting experience) but some relative conclusions still can be made: 1) the best wines are as soft and elegant as the best 2016s (Figeac, Conseillante, Carmes HB, Rauzan Segla); 2) The aromatic complexity and precision of some wines is very exciting (Calon Segur, Figeac, Carmes HB), 3) There are some wines which cannot mask the high(er) alcohol levels (Pavie Maquin, Calon Segur, Leoville Poyferre). Overall, I still think that 2016 will ultimately be the better vintage thanks to lower alcohol levels and a cooler, purer fruit. On the other hand, I see 2018 a tad above 2015.

    TN: This wine had a strange nose with some weird chemical smell. I ignore that as I’ve not heard of something like that in any critic report. Underneath that the wine mainly showed stone and smoke notes. The fruit dominates the palate, sweet but fresh. Round but noticable tannins. Good and fresh, medium weight and length.

    I see this wine somewhere in the 92 to 95 point range.

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  • 2018 Château Léoville Poyferré 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    A first look at the 2018 vintage at a merchant tasting in Zurich with 11 red wines tasted. It might be quite difficult to judge the wines (I don't have 30 years barrel tasting experience) but some relative conclusions still can be made: 1) the best wines are as soft and elegant as the best 2016s (Figeac, Conseillante, Carmes HB, Rauzan Segla); 2) The aromatic complexity and precision of some wines is very exciting (Calon Segur, Figeac, Carmes HB), 3) There are some wines which cannot mask the high(er) alcohol levels (Pavie Maquin, Calon Segur, Leoville Poyferre). Overall, I still think that 2016 will ultimately be the better vintage thanks to lower alcohol levels and a cooler, purer fruit. On the other hand, I see 2018 a tad above 2015.

    TN: This wine shows consistent with the 2015 and 2016. This is all about the ripe, borderline jammy fruit, not as cool, fresh and pure as other 2018s (Figeac, Conseillante, Rauzan Segla, Carmes Haut Brion) and not mineralic, cool and elegant as the Leoville Las Cases 2016 (which so far is the best 2016 I‘ve tried). Fat, rich with lots of fruit and some floral aromas, a wall of tannins which don‘t have the luxurious quality of some of the best other wines. In addition there was some heat showing and only time will tell if that wine will better integrated once mature and if it will ever be able to mask the high(er) alcohol.

    I see this wine somewhere in the 89 to 93 point range.

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  • 2018 Château Léoville Barton 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    A first look at the 2018 vintage at a merchant tasting in Zurich with 11 red wines tasted. It might be quite difficult to judge the wines (I don't have 30 years barrel tasting experience) but some relative conclusions still can be made: 1) the best wines are as soft and elegant as the best 2016s (Figeac, Conseillante, Carmes HB, Rauzan Segla); 2) The aromatic complexity and precision of some wines is very exciting (Calon Segur, Figeac, Carmes HB), 3) There are some wines which cannot mask the high(er) alcohol levels (Pavie Maquin, Calon Segur, Leoville Poyferre). Overall, I still think that 2016 will ultimately be the better vintage thanks to lower alcohol levels and a cooler, purer fruit. On the other hand, I see 2018 a tad above 2015.

    TN: Great contrast to the Poyferre tasted next to it. Typical Barton with this dark and blue fruit profile marked by freshness, purity. As it is true for the 2016 (rated 96 points on three occasions) this is not the most elegant wine, it lacks the rafinesse and seductivness of the best examples but it is classic Bordeaux with a touch of rustic charm. Not as good as the 2016 (at least at this stage) but I still believe that it could reach 95 point someday.

    I see this wine somewhere in the 93 to 95 point range.

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  • 2018 Château Calon-Ségur 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    A first look at the 2018 vintage at a merchant tasting in Zurich with 11 red wines tasted. It might be quite difficult to judge the wines (I don't have 30 years barrel tasting experience) but some relative conclusions still can be made: 1) the best wines are as soft and elegant as the best 2016s (Figeac, Conseillante, Carmes HB, Rauzan Segla); 2) The aromatic complexity and precision of some wines is very exciting (Calon Segur, Figeac, Carmes HB), 3) There are some wines which cannot mask the high(er) alcohol levels (Pavie Maquin, Calon Segur, Leoville Poyferre). Overall, I still think that 2016 will ultimately be the better vintage thanks to lower alcohol levels and a cooler, purer fruit. On the other hand, I see 2018 a tad above 2015.

    TN: There‘s so much fuzz about this wine that the En Primeur prices went up by 30-40% already just two weeks after its release. Several critics gave this wine extraordinary high ratings, including straight 100 points from JM Quarin, I critic I follow closely for Bordeaux wines as he rather finds greatness in elegance than high-octane/high-extraction wines. Well deserved praises? The complexity in this wine is off the charts, definitely above the level of the other wines I‘ve tasted that day. Layers and layers of floral aromas, lots of different herbs, dark fruit, some crushed rocks, cola. Highly intense, high precision. Quite rich and powerful but with well-integrated but noticable tannins (not as soft and luxurious as Figeac, Conseillante, Rauzan Segla) and a good freshness. The alcohol is at 14.9% and eventhough there is a lot of fruit and other aromas they cannot completely mask that. In summary, I definitely see that this is a great, singular wine which will bring a lot of pleasure but I doubt it can reach the Olympus of wines and get to the 100 points some critics see. For that it is just a tad too alcoholic and bold.

    I see this wine somewhere in the 93 to 96 point range.

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  • 2018 Château Rauzan-Ségla 96 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux

    A first look at the 2018 vintage at a merchant tasting in Zurich with 11 red wines tasted. It might be quite difficult to judge the wines (I don't have 30 years barrel tasting experience) but some relative conclusions still can be made: 1) the best wines are as soft and elegant as the best 2016s (Figeac, Conseillante, Carmes HB, Rauzan Segla); 2) The aromatic complexity and precision of some wines is very exciting (Calon Segur, Figeac, Carmes HB), 3) There are some wines which cannot mask the high(er) alcohol levels (Pavie Maquin, Calon Segur, Leoville Poyferre). Overall, I still think that 2016 will ultimately be the better vintage thanks to lower alcohol levels and a cooler, purer fruit. On the other hand, I see 2018 a tad above 2015.

    TN: Candied notes of cassis, strawberries, rhubarb, licorice on the nose. Still ripe, but less candied and more pure and fresh on the palate. Very well delineated and woven into an outstanding structure with ultra-fine tannins and good but not yet perfectly integrated acidity. This wine is hyper elegant (plays on the same level as the Conseillante and Figeac) with a good aromatic intensity and very good length. Value for money seems exceptional here.

    I see this wine somewhere in the 94 to 97 point range.

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  • 2018 Château Canon 94 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    A first look at the 2018 vintage at a merchant tasting in Zurich with 11 red wines tasted. It might be quite difficult to judge the wines (I don't have 30 years barrel tasting experience) but some relative conclusions still can be made: 1) the best wines are as soft and elegant as the best 2016s (Figeac, Conseillante, Carmes HB, Rauzan Segla); 2) The aromatic complexity and precision of some wines is very exciting (Calon Segur, Figeac, Carmes HB), 3) There are some wines which cannot mask the high(er) alcohol levels (Pavie Maquin, Calon Segur, Leoville Poyferre). Overall, I still think that 2016 will ultimately be the better vintage thanks to lower alcohol levels and a cooler, purer fruit. On the other hand, I see 2018 a tad above 2015.

    TN: The most sweet red fruit dominated wine at this tasting. Lots of strawberries, some acidic raspberries, a herbal component. The structure is marked by very fine tannins and a slightly disjointed acidity (which will certainly better integrate with time). Not the most exciting wine today and paled in comparison to the best as it has not the balance (Figeac, Rauzan Segla, Conseillante) or aromatic expression and complexity (Calon Segur, Figeac, Carmes HB).

    I see this wine somewhere in the 92 to 96 point range.

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  • 2018 Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion 97 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    A first look at the 2018 vintage at a merchant tasting in Zurich with 11 red wines tasted. It might be quite difficult to judge the wines (I don't have 30 years barrel tasting experience) but some relative conclusions still can be made: 1) the best wines are as soft and elegant as the best 2016s (Figeac, Conseillante, Carmes HB, Rauzan Segla); 2) The aromatic complexity and precision of some wines is very exciting (Calon Segur, Figeac, Carmes HB), 3) There are some wines which cannot mask the high(er) alcohol levels (Pavie Maquin, Calon Segur, Leoville Poyferre). Overall, I still think that 2016 will ultimately be the better vintage thanks to lower alcohol levels and a cooler, purer fruit. On the other hand, I see 2018 a tad above 2015.

    TN: Roughly 50% whole cluster fermentation. The at the tasting present winemaker Guillaume Pouthier told us that his target always was and is to produce a singular expression of Pessac and Bordeaux. The result, as is true for 2016, is indeed singular and in my opinion amazing. Sweet strawberry candy, fresh dark sour cherries, stems, sous bois, a nice complementing layer of fresh herbal aromas. Very smooth, fine tannins, wonderfully integrated acidity. Intense, elegant and soft. Even if you don‘t have a lot of experience you would be able to single this wine out in a blind tasting. Believe the hype and go get some bottles (also of the 2012 we tasted alongside (no CT note but definitely a 92/93 pts experience; and of course you should buy the 2014, 2015, 2016 and 2017 too).

    I see this wine somewhere in the 95 to 99 point range.

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  • 2018 Château Haut-Bailly 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    A first look at the 2018 vintage at a merchant tasting in Zurich with 11 red wines tasted. It might be quite difficult to judge the wines (I don't have 30 years barrel tasting experience) but some relative conclusions still can be made: 1) the best wines are as soft and elegant as the best 2016s (Figeac, Conseillante, Carmes HB, Rauzan Segla); 2) The aromatic complexity and precision of some wines is very exciting (Calon Segur, Figeac, Carmes HB), 3) There are some wines which cannot mask the high(er) alcohol levels (Pavie Maquin, Calon Segur, Leoville Poyferre). Overall, I still think that 2016 will ultimately be the better vintage thanks to lower alcohol levels and a cooler, purer fruit. On the other hand, I see 2018 a tad above 2015.

    TN: Same as in 2016 this wine did not show as soft, elegant and well-integrated as the best wines. In this tasting Figeac, Carmes HB, Rauzan, Conseillante showed another level of luxurious elegance. The Haut Bailly has some rough edges but still is good, fresh and balanced enough, showing sweet red fruit along herbal scents and a tad minerality. Medium precision, medium+ length. Overall for sure a solid effort but not one on my buy list.

    I see this wine somewhere in the 91 to 95 point range.

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  • 2018 Château Smith Haut Lafitte 93 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    A first look at the 2018 vintage at a merchant tasting in Zurich with 11 red wines tasted. It might be quite difficult to judge the wines (I don't have 30 years barrel tasting experience) but some relative conclusions still can be made: 1) the best wines are as soft and elegant as the best 2016s (Figeac, Conseillante, Carmes HB, Rauzan Segla); 2) The aromatic complexity and precision of some wines is very exciting (Calon Segur, Figeac, Carmes HB), 3) There are some wines which cannot mask the high(er) alcohol levels (Pavie Maquin, Calon Segur, Leoville Poyferre). Overall, I still think that 2016 will ultimately be the better vintage thanks to lower alcohol levels and a cooler, purer fruit. On the other hand, I see 2018 a tad above 2015.

    TN: I adored Smith Haut Lafitte in 2016 and think that it is a must have and one of the best wines in its price range (although a small sip tasted the day of the 2018 tasting didn‘t excite me as much as the it did back in November). This 2018 is not on the same level but still a good wine. Red fruit, dark fruit, a very nice minty note (the biggest minty note of all wines tasted that day which I dig in wines), some other herbal notes. Very fresh, round and well-balanced. This SHL will never be the most complex wine but it still has the potential to become a crowd pleaser.

    I see this wine somewhere in the 91 to 95 point range.

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