HDH Burgundy Auction

Chicago, IL
Tasted Friday, May 17, 2019 - Saturday, May 18, 2019 by acyso with 373 views

Flight 1 (19 Notes)

  • NV Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Grand Rosé 88 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    Fresh and juicy -- a little bit of a grape juice thing going on here, with a mildly vinous thing going on with the palate. Ripe and sweet, but sufficient cut for balance.

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  • 2016 Domaine Michel Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    Creamy nose at first, with significant oak flavours. The palate doesn't show the fatness and fairly flabby structure I've found in some other 2016s, but I fear some of the backbone here is provided from the more prickly oaky elements. Overall though, the acid does feel relatively low here. Obviously young, and it's an open question what this evolves into.

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  • 2016 Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    Brilliantly crispy fruit on the nose and palate; fairly red in profile, but also some clean Nuits dirt (if that makes sense at all). The palate has some very nice red fruit, and shows a delicacy that I don't typically find in Nuits. The acid and fruit are bright, and there's a lot to love here. I wasn't the only one whose glass disappeared far faster than usual.

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  • 2014 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    Very light and delicate -- red fruited, with a really lovely perfume. The palate is just slightly angular, and there's a very mild funk here, but overall this is actually in a very approachable and lovely place. Have always loved the style here, and this is no exception.

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  • 2015 Domaine Dujac Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Monts-Luisants Blanc 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    This is no slouch in the Dujac stable -- the nose shows a mild bit of reduction, but also some really lovely white fruit. Lean, with plenty of acidity and lovely cut. Surprisingly fresh and bright for the vintage.

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  • 2002 La Pousse d'Or Corton-Clos du Roi 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    A little bit of earthy funk on the nose. Fairly large-scaled on the palate though, with a little bit of prickly oak. It's not as elegant and pure as some of the newer iterations, and I think this is a bit blocky overall.

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  • 2008 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    No prizes for guessing the flaw.

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  • 2016 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne 83 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin

    (5/17/2019)

    If served blind, I'd more likely guess gamay than pinot. Strawberry, candied, and "stemmy" (yes I know). Ditzy without substance. Fourrier sucks.

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  • 1998 Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay Ouzeloy Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay

    (5/17/2019)

    Corked. Clearly tired too.

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  • 2010 Bouchard Père et Fils Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    Drinking fabulously well. Bright red fruit with some lovely tart fruit. A slight bit of earthiness here. Very elegant, this is much better than my last (recent) experience with this wine. Bright and approachable, with the acidity slightly more prominent.

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  • 1990 Faiveley Echezeaux 85 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    Mildly funky, a slight bit of wet cardboard, but the TCA doesn't seem to show on the palate. Kind of dirty and backwards, rustic, and typical of the era -- tastes like the old reputation of Faiveley.

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  • 2010 Louis Jadot Latricières-Chambertin 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    No fears about this being closed down -- this is just brilliant red fruit. Relatively open with such bright expression. Eminently drinkable, the deliciousness here is almost perverse. I'm not sure what the character of Latricieres is, but this is just off-the-charts approachable and delicious. Jacques Lardiere is the OG.

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  • 2005 Maison Albert Bichot Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaucopins Domaine Long-Depaquit 83 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    Slightly high-toned on the nose, with a blowsy palate. Mostly heavy-handed, and the oily texture isn't nice for chablis; a bit of oaky too. Incorrect for the appellation.

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  • 2005 Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Comtesse Marie de France 90 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    No. 3649. Disgorged February 2017. Really lovely fruit here -- a bit sweet, but nicely cut with some tart white fruit. The fruit here isn't as ripe, but the acidity is quite bright. Very nice overall intensity, even if the fruit isn't as brilliant.

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  • 2004 Pierre Moncuit Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Nicole Moncuit Vieille Vigne 90 Points

    France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    Disgorged September 2015. A bit more lean and tart than I like. There's a slight bit of brioche and bread on the nose. The palate's acidity is fairly prominent, but the breadiness does help to balance it. Overall nice intensity, but I wish this was a little bit rounder.

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  • 2012 Gérard Raphet Clos Vougeot Cuvée Unique 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    Backwards and a little rustic, but generally a nice earth and spice character here. Not quite grand cru density, but definitely a very convincing showing, especially given the youth. I expect this to integrate quite a bit with more age, but this is actually quite delicious already.

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  • 2016 Blain-Gagnard Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    So for starters, at least it's not poxed. Lots of oak on the palate, but a moderate amount of acidity here. The fruit does feel a little fat, and the complexity here is lacking for a grand cru. Good, but hardly convincing for the level.

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  • 2013 Domaine Ponsot Chapelle-Chambertin 85 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru

    (5/17/2019)

    There's a less than enjoyable sour thing going on with this wine, which is all the more weird because of the almost overripe cherry flavours. Fairly tight, but this just fails to convince as a grand cru. Put this in the long line of misses from this estate.

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  • 1988 Château Climens 95 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    (5/17/2019)

    Stunning Barsac. This truly embodies everything that Barsac ought to be. This has the power and concentration you would expect from a top tier wine, but the thing that stands out here is that it's not that "big" of a wine -- the acidity and freshness here give this wine a brilliant lightness and elegance that most Sauternes will never possess. While I generally prefer the relatively more opulent Sauternes (Yquem and Doisy-Daene Extravagant), this is one that is on the elegant side of the spectrum and brilliantly so. A German riesling drinker's Sauternes.

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Flight 2 (22 Notes)

  • NV Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 166eme 93 Points

    France, Champagne

    (5/18/2019)

    As I've remarked before, this is a fairly decent edition of the Grande Cuvee, but for the same price, my money would go to the 164eme instead, which shows a little more overall intensity, even if the two wines aren't that different in terms of a more acid-driven style. The 164eme has never felt that Kruggy to me because of a relatively lack of breadth, and I think the problem is the same here. Nonetheless, despite the high acidity, this isn't a wine where the endemic imbalance problems show up (I'm looking at you, hipsters).

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  • 2016 Maison Leroy Bourgogne Blanc 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc

    (5/18/2019)

    A bit high-toned and tropical, with some exotic notes that are probably more at home in Teutonic grapes than chardonnay. Quite ripe, and fairly large-scaled, with a fatness that belies the designation. Moderate freshness and pleasant enough now, but not one I'd be keen on keeping around for a long time.

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  • 1999 Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Chatelots 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    A bit step up from my last bottle -- this wasn't as dirty and funky and showed this crystalline purity of Chambolle fruit that is just spot-on. It's delicate and floral, with some deliciously bright red fruit. Not too intense; this is just delicious now.

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  • 2002 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 85 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    Not oxidized, so that's as much a unicorn as any. Apple cidery and peachy. Far more fat than Chablis ought to be.

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  • 2006 Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    There's that dark, slightly beetroot character here, but it's supplemented with the lightness of the producer. Nice red fruit and more delicate than the vintage is, but this is really a red Burgundy up my wheelhouse.

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  • 2015 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Maréchale 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    The nose is very effusive, with a brilliant ripeness and richness from the vintage. The palate, however, is a bit more dull and shows a bit more earthiness. I do love the fruity character here, but this is mostly a structural thing at this point. Clearly too young now, this will definitely get better with age.

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  • 2015 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    A touch fatter than I like in Chablis, but this has that nice chablisien cut. But there's a slight bit of herbal quality, as well as some "slatey" minerality here. This is one of the few Dauvissat that actually speaks to me; perhaps that ripe fruit gives this a more open and approachable quality.

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  • 2008 Hubert Lamy Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    There's incredibly concentration and power in this wine, but the bright fruit and acidity isn't there -- perhaps a little more tired and advanced than it ought to be. Drinkable, but a bit of a shame, really.

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  • 1969 Domaine Thenard Corton-Clos du Roi Flawed

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    Slightly corked.

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  • 2004 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    This is as classic as it gets; fairly open, with some good mineral and smoke character. The back end of the palate does seem to have a little more of that green thing that I'm not a huge fan of (the snap pea string thing). Lovely minerality, with some good leanness.

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  • 2004 Domaine Roulot Meursault Les Luchets 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

    (5/18/2019)

    Absolutely brilliant chardonnay. So delicate, with this demure floral thing going on, as well as some beautiful fruits. The palate is delicate as well, with some beautiful, if a little shy, fruit. Lovely minerality, this is just spectacular Meursault.

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  • 2016 Hermann J. Wiemer Riesling Magdalena Vineyard 93 Points

    USA, New York, Finger Lakes

    (5/18/2019)

    Served double blind. Easy German GG guess. Brilliant herbal qualities here. Just a hint of sweetness that gives this a richer mouthfeel. Absolutely killer stuff. I cut my vinous teeth on these wines, and it's just amazing to revisit these wines again.

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  • 2015 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    Despite the fairly generous fruit on the nose, the palate here is quite hard, with a touch of earthiness and a lot of black fruit. Quite structural, this needs a lot of time to come around.

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  • 1999 Damilano Barolo Riserva 90 Points

    Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

    (5/18/2019)

    From the tannins and colour and state of the fruit, an easy ~20-year-old nebbiolo guess. Nice fruit, with some slight perfume and definite grainy tannins. It's not the most profound wine, but it's a delicious nebbiolo drinking well right now.

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  • 2005 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Les Forêts 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    A little riper and sweeter than I like for chablis -- this is fairly ripe with a beautiful generosity of fruit. However, I think this is a little more blowsy and ripe, and the salinity, citrus, and cut are a bit missing here. Won't turn down a glass of this ever, but with the prices blowing up as they are, not sure it's something I'd chase.

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  • 2005 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Monts Mains 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    Even riper than the Forets tasted alongside, with a bit of a caramel thing that I just don't like. Sweet kettle corn thing going here, and while there's a hint of acidity and salinity, it's not enough to cut through that ripeness.

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  • 2010 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Corton-Charlemagne 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    Brilliant. Shows some sweet vanilla and oak, but there's so much brilliant white fruit here. So intense and powerful, with clear grand cru density. I love the raw energy on this wine and the concentration. Again, I used to laugh at this producer, but I think it's a huge mistake to discount them.

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  • 2002 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    Served double blind. Correctly identified as Vosne 1er cru, but I thought the vintage was a lesser one, so I guessed 2007 or 2001. The bright acidity is what fooled me, I think. The palate is silky and spicy, with a very elegant disposition.

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  • 2002 Emmanuel Rouget Echezeaux 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    Awesome stuff. So spicy, intense, and powerful. A little bit of coffee with the oak maybe a touch more prominent. The palate is intense and powerful, with this silken texture that is just outrageously good.

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  • 2015 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    Brilliant, fruity nose, with a huge ripeness here. Sweet and silky on the palate, the big ripe fruit is balanced so nicely with the acidity and freshness here. I think Roumier is always good with pushing the ripeness but never falling over the edge. This is really deep and delicious, and even though it's the proverbial runt of the Roumier litter, this is just absolutely stunning now.

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  • 2000 Coche-Dury Volnay 1er Cru 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    A little muted on the nose, but the palate is bright with some delicious red fruit. It doesn't quite have the delicacy and perfume I would expect from Volnay, but there's this intensity of fruit on the palate that's super delicious.

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  • 2000 Henri Boillot Chevalier-Montrachet 95 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

    (5/18/2019)

    My best (and last) bottle of this. The nose here shows quite a bit of ripeness, and this is extremely consistent with my observation that this is more Batard than Chevy. Brilliantly fresh and vibrant, with a serious density and richness on the palate. Absolutely outstanding stuff, with so much concentration and complexity. The brightness here defies the ripe, heavy vintage.

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