A wine dinner compèred by Douglas Blyde

A series of pairs with the original intention of identifying some good everyday house wines, but it evolved into an exploration of some very niche and interesting options.

Two different oaked champagnes, served with gougères

• NV Taittinger Champagne Les Folies de la Marquetterie

  France, Champagne

  PN with some Chardonnay. Based on a single year (not disclosed) and six years’ bottle age. Very dry, oak only really noticeable on the finish. Savoury, very clean. Very crisp. Structured, apple-notes, soft, can taste the oak ageing in the structure.

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• NV Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Sous Bois

  France, Champagne

  Much stronger oak than the Taittinger Folies which preceded it, and more present throughout the wine rather than just on the finish. Very long finish, oaky and vinous. I preferred this, but was in a distinct minority; others found it crisp, yeasty, a little sharp.

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• 2017 Blackbook Winery Chardonnay Painter of Light Clayhill Vineyard

  United Kingdom, England, Essex

  This wine is from Essex/London, England. Very pale. Sparkling buttered toast, lime marmalade on the finish, which is long. Coastal influence; lean. Only 1 barrel made. Nose of tar, strong oak, acidic. Green.

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• 2014 Chanin Chardonnay Los Alamos Vineyard

  USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County

  All preferred to the Clayhill. Buttery, oaky flavour. Richer, fuller and riper, without being too sweet. Notes of orange. Apparently only 26 barrels made.

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Paired with saffron risotto

• 2012 Dr. Loosen Graacher Himmelreich Riesling

  Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

  Very classic dry German Riesling, richer and fuller in texture than the Clare Valleys we’ve been drinking more recently. All enjoyed. Dry but sweet, apricot, good with the saffron risotto.

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• 2013 François Villard Condrieu DePoncins

  France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu

  Orange in colour, botrytised giving it sherry/fish sauce/umami notes. Heft and aroma. Plenty of oak (?). A bit hollow, but good with the saffron, well-matched.

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• 2017 Azores Wine Company Vulcânico Rosé

  Portugal, Açores, Vinho Regional Açores

  Very saline on the sides and the finish. Energetic. Deep orangey-pink, darker. Orangy taste, too. Fruit, exhaust fumes, ozone, sea. Apparently this was the only bottle available in the UK (for now).

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• 2016 Clos Cibonne Tibouren Côtes de Provence Cuvée Spéciale des Vignettes

  France, Provence, Côtes de Provence

  Onion-skin colour, some oak. Also v energetic. Everyone’s favourite. Age-worthy, food-worthy, serious; not just cheap pleasure in the sunshine. Light fruit, soft, body all the way through. AMAZING with peas.

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With halibut in pea sauce

• 2016 Lethbridge Wines Pinot Noir

  Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Geelong

  Everyone liked this, though I found it a relatively undifferentiated heavy pinot. Fruit, little strawberry, more raspberry. Great with egg yolk and spinach.

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• 2010 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Mosconi

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Powerful and well-structured. Classic tar-and-roses. Needed air and possibly warmth. Tannic, aniseed. Strongly alcoholic.

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• 2007 Domaine Gauby Côtes du Roussillon Villages Vieilles Vignes

  France, Languedoc Roussillon, Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon Villages

  No formal note taken, but all preferred this to the Priorat. Blue cheese, barnyard, nettles, little egg yolk. Sweeter. Glossy and soft, good energy, moderately tannic finish.

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• 2012 Mas Doix Priorat Les Crestes

  Spain, Catalunya, Priorat

  Buttery texture, sharp-ish (refreshing) finish. Aniseed, but less than the Barolo. A bit of butter. Green leaf, stewed plums, a little sharp. Tannic. Biodynamic, and apparently we drank it on a root day instead of a flower day, so it wasn’t showing its best. Hmm. Not worth the £25.

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With assorted cheeses

• 2018 Les Pagodes de Cos

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

  From magnum. More Cabernet than in the Grand Vin. Green leaf and green pepper. Preferred to the Catena.

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• 2009 Bodega Catena Zapata Cabernet Sauvignon Catena

  Argentina, Mendoza

  More aggressive than the Pagodes de Cos 2009. Red pepper.

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A stunning dinner hosted by great friends, fabulous food, great wines, terrific company.