Mike's Riesling Dinner

The Glasshouse
Tasted Tuesday, December 3, 2019 by NickA with 186 views

Flight 1 - Aperitif (1 Note)

  • NV André Clouet Champagne Un jour de 1911... 89 Points

    France, Champagne

    Predominantly 2008 base, with a high proportion of older vintages. The latter are to the fore on the nose, with lots of mature bready notes, verging even on cheesiness. 2008 pushes its way forward on the palate, which is much more citrusy and vigorous. There wasn't really any evident mousse, but there must have been some bubbles as it definitely didn't give the impresison of being a still wine.

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Flight 2 - Canape (1 Note)

Porlock rock oyster with yuzu ponzu, wasabi granita and pickled ginger

Flight 3 - 1st Course (1 Note)

Hand-rolled linguine with winter truffle and aged parmesan

Flight 4 - 2nd course (2 Notes)

Tandoori mackerel with spiced pickled vegetables, confit potato, yoghurt, mint and coriander

Flight 5 - 3rd course (3 Notes)

Crisp pork belly with an apple and black pudding tarte tatin, choucroute, mustard and crackling

  • 1990 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 95 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Wonderful concentration to this, and retaining tremendous energy at 29.

    Interesting nose identified as blackcurrant leaf. More blackcurrant on the palate, but this is immensely rich and juicy, like a mouthwatering fruitella sweet. There's a touch of tertiary dustiness to it, but this adds interest rather than evidences the bottle is flawed or needs drinking up.

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  • 1995 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 90 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Really very different to its flight-mates from '90 and '05, this was lithe, light-bodied and refreshing. Dominated by citrus rather than tropical notes - lime cordial and lemons. Good wine, but not what I want or expect from an Auslese.

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  • 2005 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 92 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Really ripe and the sugar is still to the fore, but it is balanced and made a surprisingly great match for pork with apple, black pudding and choucroute.

    Delicious blast of pannacotta and stone fruit flavours. Would be fun to follow this still juvenile wine's evolution.

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Flight 6 - Cheese (1 Note)

Old Groendal, Mont d'Or, Maroilles

  • 1976 Richard Richter Winninger Domgarten Riesling Spätlese Auction 91 Points

    Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer

    Really interesting - deep yellow, some juicy acidity, a hint of spice that reminds me of Aquavit - defies adequate description. With time there are wafts of dusky flowers and musk, like an exotic Arabic perfume.

    Bone dry but still rich, as with a Maury sec or certain sherries.

    Hard to score this - taste would be in the 80s, interest would be in the 90s.

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Flight 7 - Dessert (1 Note)

Christmas pudding with brown butter and cinnamon ice cream

Closing

All of the food was excellent tonight, and it all went superbly with the wines with the possible exception of the cheese course. Particularly pleased with the matches of the curry and the sharp, vinegary choucroute.

I haven't finished a tasting relatively sober but drunk on sugar before; I think I prefer overindulging on alcohol!

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