67 Pall Mall
Tasted Thursday, August 4, 2022 by SimonG with 173 views
Pale straw, green tinge. Classic PY luxe nose, reduction has gone and a green fruit and lime element dominates with a slight sense of richness starting to develop. Nicely fresh attack, crisp and clean with good energy. Lovely line. This is very decent. Energy that draws you back for the next sip. ****
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Mid to full straw, noticeably deeper than the PY. Slightly oily, waxy on the nose with a hint of carroway. Fat and leggy in the glass but even so a surprising weight on the attack. Really quite viscous. Unctuous almost. Develops yellow fruit on the nose alongside some honeysuckle. Not the elegant side of the village, but neither is it the old school style of buttery nutty richness. Blind, I’d have assumed this was the 18. Retains its slightly crème pat character over the next couple of hours. ***
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Pale to mid straw, just a faint shade fuller than the PY. Similar on the nose too, just a little richer but more subdued. Quite grippy with good acidity on the palate, fruit largely white without straying to far to the yellow. Really quite elegant. A slightly herbal note starts to add interest on the nose. Just starts to show a little more heft with air and as it warms further, and maybe a little more ‘18’.
****
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Fullish garnet. Powdery, slightly dusty nose initially and then it lifts to show mid red fruit, a touch of cherry. Very classy, elegant, polished and comely. Very attractive. Orange blossom topnotes. ****
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Similar powdery nose, cool red fruit. Obviously less density and concentration, but familial style. Lovely, and a point. ***
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Deeper, bright ruby with almost a sense of purple. Slightly high-toned violet scent. Good acidity evident on the attack, quite tightly coiled. Floral, on the lighter side as one would expect, but persistent and long. Vibrant acidity. Nose starts to evolve to a beetroot water with ginger top notes. Curious. Not sure this is all quite there. 86-88 depending where you catch this particular bottle. Not as I remember it. ***
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Slightly purple ruby at the core but garnet at the rim. A denseness to the nose, a little high toned, plush without being overdone. Elegant fruit, very nicely done. A nice florality too. There’s lots to like here. 1er Cru density. Yes. ****
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Full, deep garnet. A touch of sous bois starting to develop on the nose. Nicely mellow with a hint of caramel. No huge complexity but very attractive. ***1/2
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A little high toned on the nose. Similar full garnet with a hint of purple at the core. A hint of cherry too. Very manicured and polite, but is it Nuits? Could do with some character. Well made but somewhat anodyne. ***1/2
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‘Grappes Entiers’. Lighter coloured, purple tinged ruby hue. Floral lift with fraises de bois that comes through on the palate as a strawberry confiture. Vanilla topnotes. Strawberry and. Little lighter and brighter. Not quite the mid palate density currently, but so pretty. ****
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Trademark pre-shake spritz. Reductive, ‘oaky’ nose that the half bottle version has started to lose. This remains a lovely bottle. Still more Fourrier than Gevrey, but with a Gevrey character and weight. A slight earthiness with real density of fruit coming through. Lovely stuff. Just a little more bass. ****
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Dense ruby to garnet. Core of dense fruit on the nose with floral topnotes. Elegant, floral and pretty (in a non-pejorative sense) with a savoury element manifesting itself as Lea and Perrins. Lots of interest here, brighter and higher acidity. ****
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Purpley ruby. Light and bright. Floral. Elegant but with density. There’s lots here. A slightly herbal, spicy element on the nose adds to the interest. Energy too. ****
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Full deep honeyed amber to burnished old gold. A touch cidery on the nose. The grip and texture suggest a pretty high level of RS, but it feels more off dry now and very much balanced by its acidity. A vin de contemplation. Just not quite the energy of a bottle in 2009. ****
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2006 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 92 Points
France, Champagne
Pale to mid straw. Reductive nose. Very clean and linear, this has lost its puppy fat without yet starting to develop. Backward cf previous bottles, but opens and develops more bass notes and some richness after an hour or so. .****
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